SNIPE

totally want these base plates! I mean what else are you gonna substitute them with and plus I know id get my money back if I sold them :D

Are the pillars made out of this too? what dimensions do you think the base-plates are? looks like the two outer ones are 20x?

if lego made this then we would be able to have : and but with 2 thin axle holes or one axle hole thick, centered. with one or two of these (on the left) I hope Lego makes these since it means the wont need to make loads of bricks that are more limited which costs money for the moulds, materials, labor etc, there will be more bricks with more function instead.

I tried one way but it left a mark, I threw the unimog off my wall and now I have a lego plate shaped hole indented in the wall.

I don't see why not, they don't lose much air, so there is less loss over each stroke it does, if there was then it wouldn't work obviously Connectors you can probably linkup in the model. If you want to double check, see if the large one can lift your load, then do the same with the other one but go up slightly by adding a little more weight on, also leave it 'extended' for a few minutes before deciding that it can handle the load.

Ok cool, what about remotes? I'll need two remotes for 4 PF M motors and 1 receiver. I'd like to use the NXT receiver as its easier to mount and smaller is this possible , using the NXT to PF converter cable, it will be plugged into the PF 9V battery box., The NXT one could be plugged in first and the motors wiil be plugged in ontop of this. yes, but this is my take on it, it will be lighter and simpler and of course have this steering thing, and can flip upside down while still driving. I'm making a larger version with 4 RC buggy motors hopefully soon, this will have more features like a 'hatch' type roof where you go to enter the cabin, maybe mechanical steering (with a steering rack etc as well as this motor steering) and complex bodywork.

I like to have 4 motors on but turn two off (one of the front and one of the rear motors) when applied this makes the car turn.

Hi, If I had a model with an on-board battery & some motors with wheels attached, can I remotely and independently power some but not power others (turn some off and some on)? I know there is a switch on the IR receiver for 4 input/output channels but this is impractical when just trying to drive remotely. This can be wired or wireless but wireless would be better, can the Lego remotes tell the IR receiver to change channels which bypasses the switch on the receiver? Or how about the NXT IR sensor connected to PF

I like the idea but id make a uv joint with a 4L axle on one side and a 1L axle on the other This way you can un clip the sides and have two 4L or two 1L or have one side with a regular uv joint from the 3 or 4 lengh versions. So with the 1 and 4 L axles you can have them closer to the wheel and parralel with where the pivot for the hub and wishbones are. The uv joint has these axles as part of the brick) Lego make a part that is kind of compatible with the UV joint inner core, you just need two of them, however they unclip easily since there slightly wider than the pins on the core of the uv joint. It is the green bit of this assembly http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=30488c01

Very impressive setup, it can get over large things like logs/branches. Since it has 4 motors you can power off one of the front ones and one of the back ones , then it can help steering, kind of like how in wheel motors work. Maybe if you take the yellow beams off an mount the receiver down it can drive upside down since the wheels are bigger than the car body, this is good for if it flips over when climbing/scrambling.

When I got the lego technic 8428 it had two yellow 1x2 bricks instead of two yellow 1x2 bricks with pinhole, centred. Cool set though.

I am thinking of making custom technic studded beams bricks, plates and tiles The bricks and studded beams will be the same thickness as studless beams but I have found that there is still enough space for a clutch thought it does mean cutting a tiny hole in the bottom of each pinhole of the beam, however axles still rotate freely and pins fit in fine. Bricks are also the same thickness as studless beams. Plates and tiles are the same thickness as half thickness beams (0.5L). yes only two plates equals one brick in thickness but this will be harder to build with as it will not be able to equal 1L. I'm also going to add cut out studs so that half a stud building is more possible, and the two ends of the clutch will not be there as if you were using half a stud,it would get in the way of the stud (unless it is shorter than this beam) It will be done with a small CNC miller, the problem seems to be cost, and a few other things like noise and where to have it. Note that im not including the studs in the thickness as they go into a clutch or 1L/half beam thickness holes anyhow.

Ive tried all of the hubs you listed and for good steering you need a hub with a hole large enough for the 'drive' to go through not just the axle, for example a UV joint, or a joint like on a 8880 super car set. The hole must allow the drive to spin and hinge smoothly as well as having lots of clearance for it to hinge which means having wishbones that are far apart from top and bottom. I have tried taking the spindle out of the x873c01, the UV joint fit fine and there was a little bit of space left over to house the small part sticking out of the cross hole of the wheels (0.5L) The problem was that the wishbones were not far apart enough so it jammed and clicked. The hubs from the 8880 supercar might be the answer but the hole may also be too big to use. there is a spindle for this part but since there is a ridged ballinside it that can't have an axle going all the way through it it can only be used on the wheels from a 8880. There is a helicopter rotor plate that has 4 ball joints and a large center hole too I would say 5L is that you need for wishbone spacing, and for the best results the pivot of the uv joint needs to be parallel to the pivot of the hub (not further back).

i'll give it a shot, wish me luck

sorry I should have explained this, the instructions/steps in LDD can be really hard to see as sometimes it puts two bricks together and puts it in the model, since the model is complicated you cant really see it. I wish LDD would build one thing at a time instead of half building say a gearbox then go the rest later. Even if you build it in a certain order it still does this Half the time this means that parts/sections of a model are not really attached just floating there

Hi, how can I make good instructions for an LXF model , is there some generator out there that can do it. The instructions in LDD are not very good.

Sometimes it says there's an update twice even though you installed it the first time, could this be it? And when I open LDD sometimes it says 'receiving bricks' but no update box shows.

I have a REALLY important set of parts that I wish lego made instead of the beams, bricks, plates,tiles and liftarms we have currently Bricks, Beams & Standard liftarms are 7.8mm wide and long, and can be bought in several widths. Plates, Tiles & Half Size liftarms are 3.9mm long and two studs places back to back can fit into any of those parts since the height of a stud is 1.7mm (2x1.7mm ≤ 3.9mm) -Axle holes are recessed for the small ring under the stud of some axles -Tiles or any plates don't have grooves, the sides are flush until they meet the edges. -All studs are 'carved' out meaning basically, that some clutches allow bricks to be placed half a stud along (0.5L or 3.9mm) Since these technic beams are 7.8mm you might be thinking how do you get the clutch? , just as normal but a tiny part of each pinhole is cut out so the stud can go all the way it however pins and axles can still rotate fine in any pinhole if there is studs inside of the clutch. (I have tested this) This will make building much much easier but I doubt it will ever happen.

Has this improved steering/suspension?

Oh, I thought you said it was closed off like a regular 2x2 brick. well that's easier then How About something like this too? (can theoretically be made any length using technic sleeves or 1x1x2 round bricks.) The T pipe for the air will be pushed all the way in and the plunger will be inserted inside of the small round 1x1x6 brick. IDK how it will get air since there is only 1 hole

How did he get the axle to go through the bottom of the 2x2x11 column ? maybe there is different molds with the same part number, some with this hole some without, like a regular 2x2 brick

Does this chew the rubber part up?

You can use the technic handle (part 424 for that, or if you need a little bit less or a 0.5 pinhole bush use either one or two 'rings' (part 11010)

that will be a wheel with a tire on it, (a small one)

I don't understand