SNIPE

hi, I have just finished making the front for my F1 car and for my rollcage car but I want to have the wishbones in the same orientation and distance from the grey technic rings but cant seem to find a way of doing it that keeps the whole assembly (excluding tires and rims at a height of 3L. In the attached LXF file you'll see that I put them as close as I could to the grey technic rings but the connections are too tall (5L). However I need the wishbones to be able to still achieve their maximum amount of pivot so nothing should block them Note that the wisbones cannot twist sideways they can only move up and down and since I'm using the wishbones that the technic Enzo has I need to use the end hole which is closest to the grey technic rings. You can get the LXF file Here, any ideas I will test out and reply back.

I don't call it illegal, what would anybody have against it, I doubt lego really care nor would they care of you broke or damaged one of your parts. In fact you can use the end of a full size bush with this not just axle connectors and even other parts. The smooth axle connector has a tiny dot on it which catches on the selector barrel a bit which is a bit annoying.

Thanks alot naz, I was wondering if it works having a 3L gap on the inner side abd having both wishbones sticking out the same amount? If not can I have a 4L gap but instead of having the lower wishbone angled down by 1 stud from the flat position, have them both moved in by 0.5 studs ( 5 - 0.5 - 0.5=4) I'm using a lego spring box used jn the lego sports series through the cross hole of the top wishbone the box then links to the chassis, This box has maximum rotation of -\+ 90 degrees so the wishbones will need to rotate close to that. im using your hub that dosnt have the gears.

I'm liking the darth vader bike

Hi, Do you have a .LXF file for your current model?

But modern roller coasters use plastic wheels on metal I can't find the train wheels now that LDD has changed, but try it , maybe you need to separate them a bit by using a 1/2 bush if that has a better curve. if these dont work look for a car rim or inverted dome brick of some kind

All you need is a rim that has a dip in the middle that will act like having three small wheels supporting the rail, one such as two train wheels put front to front will have a guide in the middle for the rail.

Does it have a pivot so the wheel stays flat on the road surface? I need a lot of pivot as the spring im using is a coiled tortion spring that connects the wishbone to the body

isn't it the hub that is stopped because of the wishbones being in the way? it normally is I've seen on official models how big are these hubs that you made? I might have one idea ill try but id need to try to buy the parts first, ill take the middle bit out of the king pin and put the uv joint inside of the large hole but leave the pivot of the uv joint clear.

I Would if I could get the parts from bricklink or whatever easily.

Hi, Does anybody know how much leverage this has in how far the universal joints pivot for steering and how far up the wishbones pivot for suspention (with no wheels or springs attached to it) with this hub (this hub isn't in LDD) attached to it. I want to know how well the new wishbones work with the 3L universal joints, the prior wishbones won't work at all unless you have a 5L gap between the upper and lower wishbone but those can be quite big for some MOC's and the design of this wishbone should be better due to the thin part at the front. This is the setup I'm talking about . there'd be a wheel axle that connects the hub to the universal joint and note that there is no parts that go through the wishbone holes as this will probably block the universal joints.

To me, all parts should be made to TLG even if they are stuff like Duplo, Modulex, Znap, etc. Natural wear and tear on parts is allowed, cutting, gluing, filing down parts isn't allowed, taking lego assemblies such as turntables etc to bits and using the components of it as lego parts is fine to me, stickers can overlap but cannot be cut, old lego parts is also fine. It simply comes down to this (since this is a technic forum), you need a certain few things in a part and sometimes non technic parts have them, such as for example something that has a certain diameter to fit another part, or type of fixing, ive uses round 1x1 bricks as rims for the tiny lego rubber slick tires, they were a good width unlike using the technic pin joiner, but there was another reason, this round 'system' brick had a hole but it was not a pinhole so the axle didn't rotate freely inside of it, this was useful because there was a motor hooked to the axle. The other thing is parts that are only really used for the appearance, using non technic parts creatively can help fill in small gaps in the model , sometimes very well other times a bit less, other times it can be used to look good but not block any mechanism or just plainly to look good. LEGO is very limited and I want more parts but that's expensive so ill have to wait, new parts come out each year but if they cant fix a problem and another lego part cant then you re stuck with your MOC unless you go non purist. This is how I build I don't know about you but do what you feel is right.

Now I have something to get out of bed for ( yes really )

I doubt Lego would mix two versions up in the same set.

Nice body work, how well can it get over obstacles?

Upon further inspection, thanks to drdesignz for the image, it uses two spring metal plates laid out in parralel, the centre hole rotates them and they bend when they get to the small nubs of the second half of the gear, then unflex when it leaves contact with a nub. so ill just take out the plates and if I want an idler with a 5mm hole I will take out the grey centre bit too or replace it with an easier to remove ,technic bush.

Hi, What battery boxes did these motors come with in the first technic set they were introduced with?

Does the grey bit rotate fine without the two metal pieces? it it does then just send it in two halves it not just two halves but with the grey bit seperate too do you want the zip code or address?

i'll PM the postal address, thanks a lot, does it go back together and work fine still?

I can't even get the tabs loose ive tried pushing in and tried pushing up or down

Wont I need 4 hands, lego stuff is hard to get apart most of the time

Can the 60c01 gear with clutch be dismantled without breaking it? I want to use it as a 24 tooth idler gear so Id have to take the rubber bits out of the inside but leave the middle bit in still, or take that out as well and put a bush inside.

yeah, sorry got it back to front but it's fine now

Hi, did the control center II come out in 1995 or 1996 , technicopedia says 2005 while bricklink/peeron says 2006. Whats the difference between 'control II' and 'control center II' Also what year did control center I come out.