SNIPE

I don't understand

Hi, In Lego digital designer it shows the inside of part 75347 to be hollowed out, and it has a pinhole on the top and bottom, so can we put an axle in there with a rubber part on the end (like a tire) and make it work as a Pneumatic Cylinder? Here is the part: I'd have to find the best place to cut it and glue it back together when the tire and axle is inside of the canister. but can it already be un-clipped somewhere? The axle will be threaded using a technic nut and thread so the wheel and tire cant come off it. I could make splitters to have on the ends too which can also be side holes to mount it, depending on what you want (air can travel through the holes of the pins) or it can be attached from the bottom. and top.

I also like to use Microsoft paint for just about any drawing task, the one in windows 7 isn't quite as good as older versions but has some good new features that are helpful I'm busy listing all of the possible connections that are either different from any other connection, or is what it is but can be used for more connections too (for example using two half bushes as a 1L bush) Also beside each connection ill put if it exists in a parapet but the part has other connections or is a certain shape of something (for example, a wing) This is to keep track of parts if i need a solution to a problem, to have a 'by connection' view of all technic parts/parts that have technic features such as znap or bionicle and even lego systen. And maybe it will help make sense out of all the ideas for new parts so that more otherwise ground is covered.

I don't think there's an impossible to take apart connection with official lego parts, they probably take this into account when designing new bricks.

Here is something ive been working on, The reason is that I think The LEGO Company have to take into account usability, matirials, ease of manufacter, saftey, strengh, etc this part can be used as a 32184 part but with the cross and pinholes inverted, you simply get another one and rotate it so its connectedby the cross holes in the center however this is also compabable with thin beams and other connectors. Note that the section linking the two holes is solid, and dosnt go in and has no tiny slit cut out for the axle hole (not that official 0.5L axle holes do anyhow) This can be used as a reguar 32184 but can hinge in the middle either by 90 degrees in the cross hole or more finley by linking the two pin holes together in the middle. If you put two pin holes/axle holes back to back you get another new connection too. You can put two together like a 6536 but put a cross hole with a pin hole and a cross hole with a pin hole, now it will be able to hinge in two places. If you have thin liftarms you can put them with this too for example a ++,+o+,+oo+ or +ooo+ liftarm can be added to the crosshole of this connector . 42003

Yellow and Black is my fav colour, this is my favourite out of the technic challenge models Nice work EDIT I did not know that the dark blue version was the same model I like dark blue even better and hope TLG sell it as a limited edition set so I can buy it.

Thanks guys, I used Efferman's idea as it is sturdiest and dosn't bend much with the force of the spring and has the right L shape on the lift arm so the bug spring dosn't get obstructed.

Whats the part number?

No because the mount for the spring is 90 degrees to the hole and needs to be for the spring to pivot that way.

That gets in the way of the spring. the spring is vertical on the axle so its right next to the liftarm.

Hi, How can I connect a spring to this 15L lift arm , the way shown in the image is what I want but it isn't attached so I probably need to find connector(s) that can do this, I want to keep it simple and not over-sized so that I can add more features to the model later. Note that the cross holes in the blue connector wont work because the spring is too bulky where the hole is , the spring is pivoting too alightly which is why there's a 1L bap between the axle and the 15L lift-arm. The spring isn't in LDD unfortunately but needs to be strong as when it compresses and pivots it can push the connector holding it off the lift arm. the clear part is being attached but i could just flip it upside down if I wanted however the same connection must then apply for the other side anyway. Here is the spring Thanks.

I was fooled for a few seconds then I realized Good one :laugh:

Oh right Since its on a ball joint (looks like a gear) at the front that locks with the grey wheel hub spindle i thought it would.

Hi, Can the Lego 8880 really steer and turn @ 90 degrees ( or thereabouts) as it says in the manual, it can but i'm not sure it can if it can, great ,

Hi, In Lego Digital Desighner do the base plates actually have a smooth underside of is there small dimples on it. LDD shows them as smooth with no indentations but im not sure. I need a smooth large surface so im thiinking of using many of these (mainly 48x48)

Wait are you saying it actually dosnt fit on a stud? I want bricks that are actually useful not just for design, lego is still quite limited mechanically and that isnt good for me and probably other people. The stud connector is a good idea if it works because its a spacer for axles and pins and stud connector.

Lego falls to bits so parts likley get lost in the dirt.

is this ring actually meant to act as a stud joiner or is it some minifig part or something

The 'ring' (dont know that part number but LDD says its 10067) is super useful, it is a stud to stuc connector which allows for two studs (not clutches/brick undersides/studholes) to be joined together and is very thin so it also acts as a .5l bush but without s crosshole and slides onto any technic axle. Now I bet it will fit on pins too so maybe thats something to add to ldd since it dosn't currently. You also get 'half pin and stud with 3l bar', and more new technic parts as well as a lot of technic/system and system bricks.

8421 all the way, it uses the 12v system but is the second biggest set for techic. Im suprised there has not many mods for it .

I have a few tricks up my sleeve

Good Ideas, thanks

Hi, I am making train rails in Ldd by using flex cables, pin connectors and lamp holders, The tubing goes through the hole in the lamp holder, and pins connecting the pin connector sleeves however since I need corners and at a range if different angles for more realistic layouts I need to be able to flex the flex cable to a curve like this one. This means having it so it is curved 'perfectly' meaning there is no S shapes, even slight ones, and also means that if you cut it in half the curvature should match up, once I know how I can do this I can actually start building descent track, the tubing should not be sloped up or down though with this same possible technique provided it will make this possible for when I want to use sloped track and even track terminals (to switch tracks). Note that the two tubes will be joined together to make one section of straight or curved track, if this is too hard to do, you can use a longer flex tube if you want.

it would look better if you used black pins with black panels and grey pins with grey parts, blue doesn't match but apart from that I like it. I know the black ones might be expensive or hard to get.

If it's 8448 try setting it so it is the rotation where it isn't quite lining up with the holes of the wheel then twist the wheel slightly so it does and put the pins in it. I did this with the technic pulley that has the 6 pinholes in it and that worked but might cause wearing. If you really want try using a threaded axle with a nut either side so it is clamped onto the wheel hub. mine don't seem to do this with the standard model wheels maybe its a bad part. Maybe have a 4l with stop but the stop is on the part where a cv joint would go and have some bushes on the other side where the wheel front is.