SNIPE

I still cannot seem to get much steering angle with them without the wheels either being toed in/out or having too much play in the points for the arms and steering rack. I can't seem to find a way to add suspention to them while having a lot of travel from the wishbones either, why oh why wont lego do something about this The idea I had was to use an arm that links the outer wishbone pivot point to a spring box mounted alternate to the holes of the wishbones so when the wheel moves it hinges the arm up that rotates the tortion spring in the spring box.

What was wrong with technicbricks, lugnet or brickset?. A lot of the time it is disgussing with others openly what you like/don't like, there will never be a perfect lego set and lego do actually listen and probably read these forums to see what people would like, if its a thing that a few peple want they usually do it. Most complaints are in a relevant thread do that they are not disruptive to the topic of the thread posted in. So complaining can be good or bad, it depends on a whole load of things though that we just pick up by interpretation. This may help after some thinking: A complaint is usually bad when: Somebody is complaining but nobody who reads can help. Somebody wont listen to help about their complaint maybe even from a user with a higher forum. rank. Somebody is using strong or language There is no 'lazy,celf centred, or whatever people here' because that sort of notion is not used much or allowed, were all equal in a way as members. Those sites are more for reading than disgussing please note, peeron.com can be good too.

Hmm thats odd my argos (went to one a little further away because they had more in stock) gave it to me fine, im not sure why they didn't but anyway glad you got it.

I dont like having the battery box on the back either I'm modding this set soon so.

I also think the IR receiver and transmitter will fit in the cockpit with the servo motor you just have to wire it to the battery box which may take a slight modification as there only seems to be space for one connector on the battery box (height wise)

I got the Lego 42000 grand prix racer on the 26th as it came out then in only 1 store if I recall correctly, its fairly good stuff

Hi, On the 26th of December I got the Lego 42000 from a local store after being informed that it is available in a certain store. I got it for £79.99 which I think is fair as today I finished building it and decided to do A review so without further do: General info: The set box is quite good with the images as it captures the whole car with good detail in a smallish box size, it also demonstrates its features, its ad-dons using PF and other usual information such as dimensions, it has a total of 1135 parts (26 spare from A model) and it is 58cm long by25cm wide by 13.6 cm tall, the B model is not available in the set but maybe online as PDF. The instructions are in three books its features are independent suspension, HOG steering, rear diff and working engine, tilting rear spoiler and engine body cover with a hinge. The engine cover and rear wing can either by adjusted manually or electronically. Mechanisms/construction: The mechanisms feature: linear actuators, gears+differentials, springs, motors, linkages on either beams or ball joints. they are either controlled by motor, by hand, the switch between rear wing and engine cover is done with a clutch that is hooked up to a selector switch, if you have the motor with it it only reveres whatever is selected. like that the linear actuators have build in slip clutches so you cant overdrive it and break it however when it goes off with lifting the engine cover is is quite wobbly and noisy, also when the engine cover lifts up it goes get slightly obstructed by a body panel and the mount of the actuator which does slow it down opening and closing half way though but it isn't a huge problem for me, after all it is still a set of standardized parts, nothing custom designed. The rear diff and engine work very well as usually when you spin the wheels they don't run for very long but these ones do so the parts have little friction, the rear spoiler is also good and I don't have any issues with it, its design is clever and a bit different maybe which is what lego is about. The suspension is smooth but I was hoping for more travel than this even if it is an F1 car, the fact that they can be seen operating is good too. The steering is also a bit of a problem as it has quite a poor turning circle, with these new steering parts which came out in this set first but it is even worse than other lego F1 cars. Since it is quite big and looks good this is a + but I don't think much of the stickers and they generally get damaged anyhow so I left them off but they do match with the shape and colour of the parts. The new parts are good , larger tires which I long for since the tires from the power puller and Williams f1 car are hard to get and expensive these new ones are better for sets about as large as the 42000 , I even think these tires will fit with other rims too. Another nice part is the 5L lift rm thin with cross holes both ends as trying to have a lift arm and support it that is 5l and thin is not easy, I used to use the triangular lift arm (old or new) before this part came out, and that is important because it will help get over problems and limits in future sets. This model is compatible with the power pullers battery box and M motor and you don't need to add or remove any other Technic parts to change it so the PF parts fit but I was expecting the clutch and sleeve to drive the rear wheels when it was in the middle position but it doesn't do anything which is odd, and there is plenty of space in the car too. I would also have liked to have the servo motor in the large space in the cockpit as that only requires the steering wheel to be taken off, I suppose for the price it's OK that you don't get any PF parts Pricing of this set is OK/slightly steep and I say this because of the above points and because it doesn't take that long to build which isn't too good for me as I like spending days building like with the Unimog U800 and that has PF too The design is good, I particularly like how the body contours match on either side of the air intake/grills on either side and the back engine cover is nice too as the back does have to go up on an angle slightly and when reading the instructions it looked like the back end was white tall but its fine. The colours are nice too kind of looks like a Honda/McLaren, the new body panels looks really sleek and will help with other models, my favourite is the 1.4x4 body panel in red The conclusion: My conclusion is that I give this car 7.5/ out of 10, you get three new linear actuators, newish tires (appeared in 1 other set I read),new steering/wheel hubs, body panels but it could be more complicated and have more features and have the 'new price' follow this perhaps, however there is a lot of good body work and some clever features and mechanisms so that's where i put it. For good measures here are some videos and images of the set: :), feel free to ask for any other information or photos of this model. https://www.dropbox....12 20 01 18.mov

Ordered :-))))))

it looks like an ascari so maybe looking at ascari mocs might help give building ideas.

Hi, What is the maximum turning angle of the wheel and what is the max angle of the wishbones for the wheels (with no suspension), the front ball joint pivot I mean) if its good enough I might try something like this as I cant find something that has good turning and wishbone stroke, I want it to turn sharply if needed even with or without 4 wheel steering)

I thought those wheel spindles that connect to the wishbone ball joints were newer than that! I must get this set from childhood nostalgia which I get with old lego.

It can be stiff sideways just don't use a horizontal pulley and only use connectors that let the body rotate vertically.

Hi, You have a vertical pulley and a horizontal pulley and have string on them then have motors in the lower body also with pulleys on. You use the motors to change the X and Y axis of the tail or have a set program for the motors this does it by reeling in string which pulls the flexible tail linkage. Be sure to use the clutch gears so you don't break anything apart say if the tail flexes too much because of the motor being left on. The hard part is getting the actual tail to flex but at least you can have the string go through the pin and pulley holes / cross-holes. Good luck

Hi, I'm looking for some sort of steering arm that will attach onto the axle in front of the two yellow bushes but when the suspension arms pivot they will get in the way as shown in the second image. The thing I need attached needs to have a pivot on it so a lift-arm or beam can move up and down like how the suspension arms do but it obviously rotates when the axle rotates for the steering. The bushes are there as a spacer as there is a gap since the spindle is offset by half a hole (0.5L) so whatever you put on the axle wont get obstructed by the two black connectors. The other thing is, if there is too many points in which it can pivot vertically when it is supposed to rotate horizontally to steer the car so I think it should have one vertical pivot on one side and another on the other side (just before it connects to the steering rack or other way of steering it with HOG or a motor). Reason being that it does not let the steering arm pivot horizontally without the axle also pivoting horizontally and it allows the steering arm to move with the suspension arms for clearance. The reason why I'm using a steering arm that is above the suspension arms is because the steering angle range is so large that it is very hard to have it work on both left and right turning without it being obstructed, even it if had one steering arm either side of the spindle.

Be able to categorize parts so that if you are editing a model its easier to do as you can move, delete or copy a catogory, for example I could name one whatever I like and it Could contain some parts of the chassis and the gearbox+rear parts like diff and suspention. Or another example could be room1 of a modular building. Without this its hard even with the selection tools to move the unwanted stuff out of the way for now so that you can work on a part of a model that was buried in other parts. Also when you take some parts off to get into the bit you want it often does not go back on again due to LDD's awkwardness with joining some parts.

I'm sort of in the dark age now but I get it on/off all of the time for about a year now , I have lots of ideas but cant build them either because there is no suitable parts or because I dont know where to start. I am not good at all with bodywork and dont know how to piece it all together, maybe I just need to keep practising building in real life than in LDD but it takes time to get a part I need. I can build a gearbox, engine or suspention/dif/wheels but when i gets to the chassis its hard, I dont know where to start with that and the bodywork and other small parts. I'm ok at modding offitial sets but again trying to do that in LDD is a pain in the neck. Maybe sariels book will help too.

Sorry to hear the sad news, if I hear or see about it ll let you know

Sets I want re introduced: (technic) 8425 black hawk 8479 bar-code truck 8448 super street sensation 8480 space shuttle 8462 tow truck (blue) But want to have modernized versions where they have more features and maybe the newer beams and stuff but look just as good if not better. That would be AWESOME!.

There is still a lot of lego bricks that are not on bricklink...

Here are the parts I would like to have in LDD: • Tire Technic Power Puller (32298) (also with 'Technic Power decal, available the pattern tool) • Wheel 62mm D. x 46mm Technic Racing Large (22969) • Tire Technic Racing Large (32296) (patterns such as 'Technic Racing' and 'Michelin' should be available in the pattern tool) • Steering Arm 6.5 x 2 with Tow-ball Socket Rounded, Chamfered (32195b) • Technic, Steering Gear with 4 Ball Joints (x873c01) (inner half) • Technic, Steering Gear with 4 Ball Joints (x873c01) (outer half) • Technic, Axle Connector Rectangular Triple Spring-Loaded (x928cx1) • Technic, Axle 4 Threaded (3705b) • Technic, Axle 10 Threaded (3737b) • Technic Axle Nut (4698) • 24 T clutch gear (60c01) • 16 T Gear with Clutch, Smooth (6542b) • 12 T gear rack (32132) • 14 T gear rack (32185) • Electric, Motor 9V 5 x 4 x 2 1/3 (2838c01) • Electric, Motor 9V Mini-Motor, newer lighter weight (43362c01) • Electric, Motor 9V Power Functions L motor (99499c01) • Electric, Motor 9V Power Functions with Gear Reduction Ratio 9.5 : 1 (87577c01) • Electric, Motor RC Race Buggy (5292) • Technic, Pin 1/2 with 2L Bar Extension (61184) • Technic plates that don't exist already (4263, 2711, 4262, 4442, 2719, 2712, 32125) • Technic Bush 1/2 Toothed Type I (4265a) • Technic, Shock Absorber 10L Damped, Complete Assembly (32181c02) (has no spring like the other shocks in LDD) • Technic, Axle 2 (3704) (no notches) • Technic, Axle Flexible 26L (x334c01) (two ends should detach so it has more use in building) • Sports Minifig Stand, Bottom (51219) • Technic, Universal Joint 4L (9244) (that can be taken off the centre holder so they can be attached to half of a 3L UV joint.) • Sports Minifig Stand Soccer (30488c01) (Pin only, compatible with centre of a UV joint and can have rigid hose put through the hole+pin hole) • Wheel 81.6 x 34 ZR Three Spoke Swirl (32197) • Tire 81.6 x 36 R Technic Straight Tread (x1825) • Tiles with no groove on the bottom (3070a, 3069a, 3068a) • Technic, Liftarm 1 x 9 Offset Crossover (32079) • Technic, Liftarm 3 x 7 x 2 Fork 3 Fingers (32308) • Bionicle Bohrok Shoulder, Liftarm 1 x 3 x 7 (41672) • Bionicle Head Connector Block Eye/Brain Stalk - Short (57536) • Bionicle Head Connector Block Eye/Brain Stalk (Piraka) - Light-Up (54359) • Bionicle Head Connector Block Eye/Brain Stalk (Toa Metru) (47313) • Bionicle Hydruka Back Plate (Morak), Marbled Glow In Dark Pattern (57560pb01) • Bionicle Krana Holder 3 x 4 (42042) • Bionicle Matoran Back, Liftarm 4 x 4 x 2 (44137) • Bionicle Matoran Kolhii Ball (44812) • Bionicle Rahkshi Torso Lower Section (44135) • Bionicle Rahkshi Chest Section (44136) • Znap Crank Connector 1 x 2 x 3 (32207) • Technic, Steering Arm (4261) • Bionicle Tohunga Foot (32576) • Bionicle Tohunga Torso (32577) • Brick, Modified 2 x 4 with Top/Side/End Holes (3709a) • Bionicle Visorak Torso, Liftarm 8 x 3 x 2 (50904) • Belville Hoop, diameter approximately 7 studs )hoop01) • Fabuland Car Roof, Fixed Curve (4086) • Fabuland Ferris Wheel Axle Support (4783) • Fabuland Window 1 x 4 x 5 with Curved Top (fabai4) • Fabuland Window 2 x 4 x 5 with Square Top (4608) • Fabuland Window Arch (fabai3) • Black Pin for Freestyle Wheel (2344) Long list, but probably wont happnen in a single update.

I like what your doing, bricks with an aging look or that have a different mould, put back to make an original set. New parts might not look aged enough and you learn a little from lego history and how they 'inproved' brick manufacture and design ,and it gives you more knowledge of more parts that are rare because of their mouldings. It will probably be a little hard to simply pick up or view these old parts in detail to verify if they are suitable or rare but if thats what you want to do then thats that.

I don't understand

HI, On second thoughts I think I might just build it without those supports for now then buy the parts and see how it is in real life when on a base-plate as its hard to tell with a digital model .

Hi, I am making a stunt track in LDD but hope tO buy the track soon but on the corner which curves inwards too I don't know how to keep it stable and have little 'wobble' in the track. Maybe hinges could work but how I don't know how they would stay in unfolded and to the right angle. I need ideas on how to support this part of the track but to have the supports attach flat on the floor end, on the track end it will obviously need to angle to attach to the track. The track goes straight again at the exit of the curve, Ill probably use base plates too,underneath the whole track so it can be put on carpet without being unstable. LDD file http://www.brickshel...t_car_track.lxf

the body is amazing how it looks very similar to the real thing , usually studs give this away but the fact that it still has a working engine and rear drive, twin rear shocks and front suspension steering, and all the other stuff is a rare thing well done!, I hope to see more creations