SNIPE

Works a treat thanks a lot :)

It does have some underneath and to the side but it still slips. if it slides then it engages with the clutch which meshes it on the axle I don't want that

Ah that part needs to slide about past where the engine crankshaft part is and that still does not stop the gear from sliding about.

Unfortunetley that isn't long enough as the clutch needs to be on an axle too There is more to go on that axle obviously but I took them off to make the image clearer.

Hi, How can I stop an idler gear from sliding about without putting anything on the axle since that has no room and will get in the way of the clutch for the gear. I have tried putting this piece so the liftarm part goes slightly in front of the gear but since its only slightly it can still come out. The gear is in-between a technic studless beam and a dog clutch so the clutch teeth of the idler gear is facing that.

Hi, take a look at zblj's ripsaw tank this uses suspension for each tread wheel. There is red rubber bars that fit into the pinholes of the treads but they are expensive at the minute as they are a brand new part, third party thigns that are similar could work though

Maybe get rid of the differential then it can be as short as 0L (both left and right side liftarms on one axle)

How about this: The diff is kind of just floating but the parts around it should stop it from wobbling much especially the gears, two more gears can be put on the diff to, top and bottom but I left them out. Just connect the thin 3L lift-arms so that they connect into the bushes right inside next to the UV joint, if the suspension isn't too good just remove those bushes. Here is a picture Here is the LXF file

How does this 'brake' one wheel? just by powering the motor off?

Well then ill see how it goes with normal axles and bushes instead of nuts but I still need to figure out how to have both gears spinnign but when one is engaged with the clutch it cuts the other one opposite from spinning.

I'm not sure what you're talking about, it is just an axle like any other axle but it has nuts to clamp the clutches together, that's it. Here is a clip of it: View My Video

Hi, I have two idler/clutch gears on an axle with a clutch between them, how do I have both gears spinning when the gear lever is in 'neutral/middle' but when the clutch is put into gear 1 or gear 2 only that one spins.? Obviously more axles and gears will be underneath the above setup since its a gearbox. Note that I cant put any more gears on the same axle as the clutch as: 1 it slides with the clutch, through the idler gears 2: the axle isn't long enough Maybe a differential can sort this I'm not sure, its really hard to picture it out mentally but I'm sure its possible, I know that a differential can have just the pinion gears or everything rotating. I don't want to use any more clutches as the gear lever already is using 4/5 of them and its very wide as it is. Here is the split/assembled model, grey and black parts are technic nuts and threaded axle.

Maybe glue sandpaper, non slip strips onto the tires, some glue is easier to remove on rubber and there are ways to get rid of other types of glue from rubber too but im not sure how effective they are some strips have adhesive backing so there will be less glue to remove. You can also harden the tire by filling it with some pattern of technic/system brick which curves around the rim. Theres always technic rubber tracks too which may fit on some rims.

I think I've found an OK solution the whole model is kinda held together in 'weird' ways but the wheels should be attached to the chassis strongly now, the white suspention boxes are not mounted too well and will probably get pulled off and the steering rack does not look too sturdy either. Here is the new LDD file. Here is the original LDD file.

The problem is that the wishbones are half a stud out from the chassis which is 5L.

Hi, I've finished making the steering & wishbones/hubs for the back of the car but I'm unsure how I can securely attach it to the chassis which has two beams that are 5L apart. The diff and axles are color matched in black so if you drag that assembly over so that they connect, everything will be in the right place for attaching to the chassis. Here is the LXF file

Hi, nice tricks is there LXF file? I've tried with the turntable and LA and cant get it to work at all and i cant figure out why I know you clicked on more than one part/sub-part before rotating but I don't know what that does

First time i've seen a technic tunneler so good job there only thing I don't like is the drill it looks odd.

it's like having an axle per wheel but one wheel can counter rotate the other with this diff however it might not happen since the wheels aren't driven.

Here is a video of what I have so far, still waiting to see the new wishbones in bricklink cheaper... I tested it with a motor but the whole thing will all be hand operated however ill put instructions to add a motor when its all finished. I want plenty of suspension travel and steering angle to make it more maneuverable and it looks like I (with lots of help) have cracked it in this model and for future models. This model is a stud-less version of the 8448, the chassis and most of the bodywork has everything in the same place as the studded version but with stud-less beams. It will have: • V12 engine that can be put in the front or rear of the car. • Pneumatic butterfly doors • Pneumatic fold up/down roof • 4WD and 4 wheel steering, • Torsion spring suspension • 6 speed gearbox with built in 4 / front / rear wheel drive selector operated by the gear lever • Selector to stop the rear wheels from steering the car. • Maybe other things if I can fit them all into the model, pop up headlights, handbrake etc The model you see is very rough and still has yellow parts just to secure some of it and will later be removed/replaced. Here is a video showing the steering and differential of the rear wheels, the same assembly is also used for the front. View Video Next up is to make the steering rack closer to the wheels, add the center differential and gear box, put in the rear wheel steer-lock then add the roof and doors. Here is an LDD file of the rear section, the suspention and steering max angles can be viewed in the LDD model.

Upon reflection, probably the 8479-1 barcode truck though when I was a kid the 8462 blue tow truck looked longer to me so back in the day the one I wanted most was the tow truck. However today there is lots more that id rather have my number one would probably be either the Williams F1, boss crawler, or the 8070 x1 / 8157 x2 just for the wishbones, I wish I had 2 buggy motors too which come from some technic sets. Who knows, maybe one day ill get them. Note that the artwork in the lego products catalog for the tow truck looked so cool too and I cant seem to find it now,this probably helped make it to my number 1.

Hi This post is quite old and my idea in it wont really work but in the newest post I did see your reply but after trying it the problem is - The UV joint still gets jammed by the hub since one wishbone is flipped in your design which means having one of the parts of the hub also in-between the wishbones. However I'm 90% sure that the simplified design Alasdair sent will work when I get the new wishbones, updates on that as soon as I get that done along with most of the whole car.

You could but construction is typically yellow, very yellow.

I'd like to see a modernized 8880 maybe with a few new parts, I'm busy making an 8448 with with 4 wheel steering and 4 wheel drive like an 8880 but its all stud less but the position of most bricks are the same. However if lego do make a model it will probably have less functionality than some older technic sets.

I'm gonna get just the book if I can one day, how big is the box?