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SNIPE

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by SNIPE

  1. SNIPE
    Hi This post is quite old and my idea in it wont really work but in the newest post I did see your reply but after trying it the problem is - The UV joint still gets jammed by the hub since one wishbone is flipped in your design which means having one of the parts of the hub also in-between the wishbones. However I'm 90% sure that the simplified design Alasdair sent will work when I get the new wishbones, updates on that as soon as I get that done along with most of the whole car.
  2. SNIPE
    You could but construction is typically yellow, very yellow.
  3. SNIPE
    I'd like to see a modernized 8880 maybe with a few new parts, I'm busy making an 8448 with with 4 wheel steering and 4 wheel drive like an 8880 but its all stud less but the position of most bricks are the same. However if lego do make a model it will probably have less functionality than some older technic sets.
  4. SNIPE
    I'm gonna get just the book if I can one day, how big is the box?
  5. SNIPE
    Id'd like to see this made into an official lego model,the bodywork is what I like best of all, and all wheel drive/steering/suspention is a nice feat for lego technic. Those buggy motors are way faster than any other lego motor shame lego dropped them.
  6. SNIPE
    I'll try that too, thanks
  7. SNIPE
    Sure, a lot of big lego sets such as cranes have steering, check out the instructions for technic crane sets these just use a H connector usually, and some beams, the instructions are easy to get online. Not all of them have a driven axle or suspension though s this what you want too?
  8. SNIPE
    Hi This is for an F1 car and also for a modified version of the lego 8448 I'm working on the f1 car at the minute. The only possible problem (mentioned above might be: - The hole closest to the ball socket on the wishbone might stop the hub from steering when the suspension is compressed, ill see how each idea goes tomorrow, I have another idea like yours I got from somebody ages ago but that cant be built at all until I get the newer style wishbones. Thanks for the help
  9. SNIPE
    I just put an axle joiner with center hole between two of these: For suspension I'm using one or two of these per wheel: (x928cx1) The bar in-between the two UV joints is so if theirs too much torque of it something jams it is just going to slide and not break the UV joint but has enough friction to work as an axle when there isn't lots of torque. i'd like to see how this thing handles when built, there's only one small problem, the wishbones might not be able let the hub pivot and turn to steer when the suspension is fully compressed so the wheels will jump if it goes over large bumps or dips.
  10. SNIPE
    Yup that did the trick thanks a million ++
  11. SNIPE
    Hi, I need to make a hub that attach the drive axle to the wishbones but I'm finding it hard as the spacing is not great to work with. If I make the wishbone spacing 5L instead of 4L then there will be practically no pivoting in them which means no suspension, if there 3L apart then UV joint gets squashed as gap between the wishbones does go slightly smaller than 3L when they pivot. Here is the LXF can it be done, I hope so, Regards
  12. SNIPE
    For a laugh I was gonna upscale it again but twice as big but it failed
  13. SNIPE
    I would also use a drive shaft, my experience with the chains have been bad as they are very bendy and come apart very easily and this is a heavy duty vehicle by the sound of it. Chains can be used with 14 tooth gears too or two of them put together even.
  14. SNIPE
    Hi, Thanks again, the LXFXML trick is just a pain in the mouth to do, I wish they would fix this stupid bug In the mean time ill use that trick you posted with the brown lego plates. Thanks for everything.
  15. SNIPE
    Thanks x1000
  16. SNIPE
    The problem is that the grid spacing or part movement is not fine enough, 0.5L has 6 possible places it can be in in that space. so If I put two on an axle and kept moving one of them, there would be 6 places would would be in before the gap between the other one is another 1.5L I need to get it into half of one of those spaces really but even the stoppers on some axles is worth 1 space so they aren't fine enough. I'm not sure how to use this 4L lift-arm as it too does the same thing as the bush I want to get in the middle of the axle. and the lift-arm has no odd lengths on it
  17. SNIPE
    No, what sort of scaffolding ? with axles or beams or bricks or?
  18. SNIPE
    Hi Does anybody have an LDD trick to place a half bush in the very center of an axle?, its easier to see with 2L axle if its centered properly or not. regards
  19. SNIPE
    You can already do the above function, get an axle and put a 16 tooth clutch gear, a 20 tooth gear and finally another 16 tooth clutch gear. You don't really need two 20 tooth gears in most cases as they don't counter rotate. The 2L axle with pin you designed has something very similar to it, but it doesn't snap in like a pin would: Just take the flex hose off.
  20. SNIPE
    I like how much PF stuff you get, how the doors stay closed, the levers in the cabin and how the body, boot and doors open.
  21. SNIPE
    No pre-orders, sales start on lego.com in August, I'm guessing the 1st but you never know. I'm not sure if LEGO are selling to large stores such as Argos, Walmart etc
  22. SNIPE
    Ok, it is in the real model, it's just awkward trying to do it in LDD on a mac. Here is my solution: I made a custom clutch which pushes the two grey 'clutch extension rings' into the gears. Note that the normal clutches will only slide a tiny bit (the axle joiners have 5 notches.) The guide plate for the gear lever stops the regular clutch from going to the two endmost notches, this means that the custom clutch doesn't need to be as wide in order to enable the gear lever to slide to the regular clutches. (Parts in pink represent the nuts and the threaded axle.) The nuts will be inside of the grey clutch extension rings which stops them from rotating independently, everything but the gears and beams holding it in place will slide around. I'll just use two half bushes in-between the two grey clutch extension rings, so the gear lever slot will be 1L.
  23. SNIPE
    oh, I forgot the angle the gear lever. is this what you mean by excentric?
  24. SNIPE
    Here is a picture of the issue: When it slides out of the red clutch its not going to go into the other grey ones but it needs to keep the position its in for which wheels are driven. This is just the important parts here no gears underneath this or transfer cases etc. I'm not sure I can picture the cam and lever idea can you make a model and take a picture/screenshot? I don't understand what is going on in the 8043, this seems to have three gear lever forks?
  25. SNIPE
    Here is something im struggling to take apart without damage: it does make for a compact and strong diff that can support very high torque applications but nothing Im really into building would need such a thing.
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