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SNIPE

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by SNIPE

  1. There's more to it then just making a model then selling it. sure lego could make huge models and sell them but you have to take into account how you'd make a profit and whet to price it at to retailers and in the lego shop.
  2. I doubt it, the clutch in the LA will just keep triggering from too much weight making it impossible for it go gain momentum to rotate upwards.
  3. Hi How exactually does this work/what do you want it to do.
  4. It uses a ball joint so instead of pulling down then left then back up you can just go diagonal and there is no slots for it to go into like on the 8448 and that is hard to do with 6 speeds unless theirs a guide plate like on the 8448
  5. Come on it has to be the gullwing door spring and latch mechanism on the lego 8448, it uses a small technic pin that isn't even connected to anything but a lever pushes it in which pushes on the spring forcing it out of its 'locking point' and it has a lever to do this , but you have to push the doors shut manually though. Pretty clever, no specialized parts. The roof is quite clever too on the 8448 it is also pneumatic and folds up and down but I have no idea how it stays down, its some sort of clasp but un clips when you press down on a button. The above images are a studless version of how it works but uses basically the same design
  6. The unimog is good for parts, im making a 9398 out of it. (no body though)
  7. Yes, the front pivot (the ball joints) are parallel to the hinge in the UV joint. If it wasn't then the turning angle when setting would be less and the axle can come out of the UV joint. however it if still touches the wishbone then maybe move it forward by 0.5L, just don't move it back any more :P
  8. Maybe you would get a larger steering angle by using the hubs from the 42000 gran prix racer or build your own from connectors.
  9. This got blazing speed! When I get my buggy motors I'll challenge this >:D
  10. Top idea, I've been wanting to make lego parts buts its expensive however the idea is still there where as if there was a need for something which didn't have any brick that would work you can just make your own and there you go. I was going to make bricks and technic bricks etc the same dimensions as technic stud less beams for complete compatibility and tiles/plates the same dimensions as half thick technic beams but as well as that i was going to make more technic connectors
  11. Hi, I'm trying to make windows using bricks with slots in them but since the actual panes have odd dimensions it's hard. The most sleekest design uses 1x2 tiles with slots cut out, but I could use 1x2 brick with vertical slot cutout or 1x4 brick with horizontal cutout, and im still trying to get hold of the parts since LDD just deletes the panes, etc due to them being 'incorrectly placed'. I don't know how to connect the side and top tiles.bricks up. I am using double glazed windows so either two will fit in the groove in the brick or one will fit in each groove of the tile (it has two grooves). however Id like to put them side by side too so it looks like one wide window. here are the panes: I only put the bottom of the frame on.and with one set of windows there would normally be 2 sets of two to make it like one wider window.
  12. I'll look forward to the new info and enjoy your journey and vacation
  13. Hi, I want the red axle to spin only as well as the red worm gear, the yellow axle should rotate with the yellow worm gear The goal is to have the yellow axle and worm gear move out but as the yellow worm gear gets so far it needs to return back without pulling the axle back too, then it starts over again and so on. Or the blue parts and both worm gears can slide up as one thing but this means having stoppers on the axles and I'm not sure how this would be built Yes I've tried real lego parts, with mixed results, sometimes the axle and gear moved sometimes they both did and maybe sometimes just the axle moved some what. maybe I was holding it by the worm gears. The image above wont really do anything because the worm gears will try to move apart but the blue parts are clamped together by bushes and both worm gears and the blue parts wont move as a whole either because the axle isn't threaded or anything. I can stop one axle from spinning by connecting it to the spinning yellow axle but put a guide on it that keeps it actuating but not rotating.
  14. Hi How can I get the yellow axle to slide by just using two worms gears like above, if 3 or4 are needed then that's ok but I don't want to use much more than that, the red axle is stationary but does rotate. I think i have an idea on how to do this but its stuck way in the back of my head.
  15. Because they are quite short so i'm using two worm gears with some 32L axle so it will have plenty of travel EDIT: After finalizing the idea, the reason is, that one axle does not slide but does rotate but the other worm gear rotates and does not slide so one axle extends outwards from the other 'fixed' one this only requires two worm gears per two axles so this boom should be able to extend extremely far, now the trick is to find a strong chassis/outer shell that also is thin so when the arm is fully closed it isn't too wide. I'm not sure if some force will move the axle or if I need something mechanical to Only the yellow axle slides since there is only s bush at the end to stop it falling out
  16. Hi thanks for the solution works niceley I assume the bottom hole is half a stud (0.5L) across from the two top ones
  17. Hi, it either moves the just axle by sliding it out of the worm gear(left) or moves just the worm gear and not the axle (right) then the large axle is connected to the crabber or whatever this is just for the mechanism that extends it for now most cranes use a gear strip and a gear attached. when one worm gear rotates it moves the other one up just like a linear actuator or a nut and bolt.
  18. Hi, I want to make a crane boom using worm gears but when I connect two side by side so they mesh the spacing is either too short or too wide. How can I fix this Iv'e tried moving it half a stud along and putting a 1x1 technic brick on top of another but no luck ;/
  19. Yep that solves it, Thanks
  20. Those supports have two types one with an axle hole and looser bottom clutch and one with an axle hole and stronger clutch theres also a tiny hole in the top of one type for say a 3l bar or hose or antenna I'm unsure which one this set uses but the mould numbers wont help here either. Can you show a picture of the support from this set so I can find the right one if I restore one of these sets.
  21. I saw this set but it was mixed in with other bags of assorted lego arts, grey, black and blue, I got a blue one and a black one only, now I should have got them all and built this set I have two of the front slopes with the planet and arrow logo,red minifig, blue 2x2 brick with white arrow,1x4 bricks with hinge in the middle,grey corner plates, and the blue tail wings and the 1x4 bricks with letters and numbers in white. I might restore the smaller set of the two
  22. Hi, How can I have a train that makes no sound when running over the rails or whatever it runs on (could have small tries and run in a groove made from plates/bricks. I also don't want any noise from the motor inside of it and I need it ti run as fast as possible, it will just go past a window every few seconds so I can either put it in reverse or loop it back to the same piece of track (which will mean having an oval track shape. I don't think the window and wall will deaden the sound too much, maybe I should just have it attached to string that is winded into a large drum that is hidden somewhere far away? I'm not sure what the 'good' ideas would be
  23. how about excluding tires wheels and parts with stickers and decals, and gear also excluded is glariator, primo,duplo, znap, lego die cast models, etc
  24. I have some of these pillars in blue, they are very hard to pull apart with some bricks such as regular round 1x1's but I like them better than having rapers round the bottom. I didn't know they were that old, gosh.
  25. Hi, What do you consider to be the most frequently used color for official lego parts of all themes, I am going to say 'black' (anything such as rubber black,shiny black,PC black, etc as long as it is generally black colored. but not trans black) but its hard to get an idea of this from bricklink What would you say is the most common color. Reason I ask is because when making MOCS it might be better to make something in a certain color since there is most parts for this color so more detail can be achieved.
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