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AndyCW

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Everything posted by AndyCW

  1. AndyCW
    Worm gear are good for getting a large reduction into a small space, but are terribly inefficient and the knob gears aren't too good either. What gear ratio you use depends greatly on what motors will be used. You don't want to gear it down too much and loose wheel speed. Gear it to get the torque you need and satisfy yourself with the resulting speed. v/r Andy p.s. You are going to want to setup the top spring mounts to provide two degrees of freedom instead of the one that is present in these wip pics.
  2. AndyCW
    Live axles will be fairly easy to implement with the 8110/9398 axle parts. Looking forward to the video of this. I was worried about the U-joints and we now know what is too much for them. Could you fit the jumbo HD U-joints in there? v/r Andy
  3. AndyCW
    If I got upset about scratched parts, I would have quit trying to build off road vehicles a long time ago. Hell, right now I have my soldering iron out and am fixing that annoying current limiting device on my battery box. I love the little car. It follows with something I have been trying recently. We can only get so much power out of these components and the only purist way to get better power density is to downscale the projects. v/r Andy
  4. AndyCW
    You can make it between two and four studs narrower by turning the differential sideways and using bevel gears at the inboard pivot point. This relocates the differential from between the wheels and moves it either forward or aft in the chassis. You could even manage 6 studs narrower, but you would need shorter control arms. v/r Andy Like this, only instead of two different motors, the outputs of a differential.
  5. AndyCW
    I use a separate V2 receiver and lipo battery box per motor. The limit on this setup is the current limiting properties of the battery box. Those wheels direct drive off of the buggy motors will be hard to keep up with utilizing the IR remote. It gets away from you very easily. v/r Andy
  6. AndyCW
    That's why you use the 5.5 axle with stop. The wheel can still back off the axle, but the axle cannot back out of the u joint. v/r Andy
  7. AndyCW
    I made a side by side ATV with two buggy motors. I used the same tires and used 3:1 gearing. It hauled. It was not as polished as yours and was only two wheel drive. I intend on making one of your versions and integrating the two buggy motors and then I will see how to downsize it using the extreme cruiser tires.
  8. AndyCW
    I'm tickled that people think of me when I am absent
  9. AndyCW
    AM General Hummer is independant with portal hubs. v/r Andy
  10. AndyCW
    The shock absorbers are usually not attached to pendular axles. They are only attached to the chassis. You can look up pendular axles on youtube and see many lego solutions. Some pendular suspensions don't use shocks at all and just connect the corners of the vehicle with a gear train or links to facilitate articulation. v/r Andy
  11. AndyCW
    Use an idler gear mounted on a spring to create a tensioner. This way you get the best of both worlds. v/r Andy
  12. AndyCW
    Don't store your hoses mounted on parts. The ends get stretched out too much and they will pop off too easily. I have some hoses that look like trumpets becasue of this. They are easier to mount, but it is not worth it. I do not know how to make new hoses easier to mount. v/r Andy
  13. AndyCW
    I ran my crawlwer at 7.4 vdc yours should have had much more power. You are right 9:1 low gear wasn't enough for some obstacles considering the weight and other functions. I simpler, lighter, version might make do with 9:1. I too have been trying to scale down the crawler to make the most out of the power of the motors. I just built a custom 9.6 vdc battery pack and need to butcher some PF cables and integrate it into my crawler. Smaller, lighter, and more powerfull. Yee haw!! v/r Andy
  14. AndyCW
    I ran into the same problem with the driveshafts and the bottom of the 5292 motors. I turned the motors around 180 degrees. The enabled me to shorten the gearbox and to use the "L" shape of the motors to reinforce the upper chassis/shock mount area. Shortening the gearbox is what allowed me to avoid the driveshaft interference. Looks good. Why a PF Large to shift instead of a Med? v/r Andy
  15. AndyCW
    I am thinking about canibalizing a PF switch and using it to create a custom battery pack. Are there any constraints present in the switch that I should be aware of before I "pull the trigger" and order one of them. I may use this to house 8 NiMH batteries to acheive 9.6 Vdc. Has anybody had any experience that would help educate me before I potentially do something unwise? v/r Andy
  16. AndyCW
    The best online source for these kind of things that I have come apon is called mcmaster car. They have everything for interesting projects. Many of the parts on experimental UAVs that I have worked on utilized McMaster Car parts extensively. http://www.mcmaster.com/ v/r Andy
  17. AndyCW
    Thanks for the positive feedback. The gear exchange in my Texas Tornado is more complicated and has more features. It may provide more "inspiration". http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=81689 v/r Andy
  18. AndyCW
    Depending on the size of your wheel tire combination utilizing IR will be very hard. It has more to do with the range of the IR controller than the power available. The vehicle will quickly outdrive the capabilites of the control link and you will find yourself chasing the vehicle. I hope you can run. v/r Andy
  19. AndyCW
    Looks promising. I suspect you eliminated the current limiter in the battery box. What are the overall gear ratios for each gear in your transmission? v/r Andy
  20. AndyCW
    I used that exact same gearbox on a 2 rc buggy motor crawler. The gear casing may be different and may cause problems, but the overall gear interchange and selection between the two 5292 outputs works fine in crawler applications. All that needs to be done is a method that stops the driving ring from slipping out of the idler gear and a mini LA should do the job once the structure is solid. v/r Andy
  21. AndyCW
    This crawler axle required a 2.5L and a 3.5L axle to keep the desired track width. My Texas tornado required a 4.5L axle in the gearbox input due to the even spacing of driving rings within the odd spacing of studless paradigm. The location of the towballs in the Texas Tornado chassis and the desire to stop them from backing out meant that the bars that retain them had to be slightly shorter than 3L. v/r Andy
  22. AndyCW
    I understand where you are coming from and do not take any offense to criticism. It is necessary in a creative arena to be able to take the good and the bad without getting "butt hurt". The power requirements for high speed necessitate multiple motors and batteries. The desire to be able to crawl and cruise necessitates a gearbox. Fewer elements means in this case less capabilities. I did remove the PF medium motor that powered the autovalve for the air locking differentials and the differentials themselves. As well as plans to make the rear axle steer. All in pursuit of simplicity and weight reduction. v/r Andy
  23. AndyCW
    I have cut axles to size. I try to build in such a manner as this is a rare event. I now am the proud owner of 1x 2.5L axle 1x 3.5L axle 1x 4.5L axle 4x 3L-2mm bars The power of bricklink has changed my perspective on this behavior. v/r Andy
  24. AndyCW
    There was a blue one of those on the forum not so long ago. It was much bigger and remote controlled, but it may provide some inspiration. BTW welcome to the forum and it looks like you have a well thought out project. v/r Andy
  25. AndyCW
    I tried using 12t bevel gears and 20t bevels, but no mater how I braced them I could not get them to stop popping. The direct output of two 5292 motors overwhelmed them everytime. I even used this and the 12t bevels kept popping. I would change something in the bracing, reassemble, test, fail, teardown, and repeat till I was blue in the face. It turned out that the only thing I could come up with that would not pop was the knob gears. I even tried the 24t and a 24t crown. The larger tooth count would provide more contact for the teeth and maybe help, but is difficult to brace this setup in a studless design and it didn't fit. They were all I could manage. I am open to suggestions on how to eliminate them. v/r Andy
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