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Showing results for tags 'RWD'.
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Rally Racer is the successor of Rally Rac3r. The difference? This Rear Wheel Drive race car is a tremendous success. As complimented by Karl4123, this vehicle has "sleek and stylish looks." It is geared up 36:12 or 3:1, and it is decently quick with decent torque. Many styling cues have been added. Why is there no InfraRed Sensor, you may ask! Well, thank you for asking! With the help of Builderdude35's tutorials, Rally Racer drives via Bluetooth! Rally Racer's Intelligent Brick acts as a receiver, and a second Ev3 Intelligent Brick is the remote! In this way, I am able to control Rally Racer from 200 feet away. Rally Racer features twin dual exhaust. The taillights feature vents which mimic the outsource of airflow, similar to that of the Ferrari 488 GTB. The spoiler is a low, lean downforce-inducing wing. The headlights are a twin-cluster with a main headlight and an auxiliary tinted light, not including the rally style fog lights. The chassis is extremely compact in and of itself. I borrowed the drivetrain design from Builderdude35's Falcon FAV100, so thanks! Two Large Motors drive a 36z gear which drives a half-bevel 12z gear (these are encased about an H-frame). It then transfers drive both to the front and rear of the robot. There is a differential which transfers power to the rear wheels, while the front axle extends to the front of the car as a neat auxiliary cue. The rack and pinion steering setup is controlled by a Medium Motor, and stabilized with a LEGO rubber band. Check out the metallic exhaust tubes while you're at it! Please comment if you have any questions or... comments. I appreciate any feedback whatsoever. I am quite please with how this turned out, especially when comparing this with my original Rally Rac3r model. -
Good Day ! While I am still waiting for my extension wires and test pipes(for my RC motor powered centrifuge), I decided to build a trophy truck. I know there are a lot of racing version out there and I thought I could come up with something new. a cop version. It shares almost the same chassis with my previous desert patrol buggy(http://www.eurobrick...=139391&hl=) and it's powered by 2 L motors as well. In addition, there's a blower(twin screw type) attached to the V6. Update: It's raining again I guess I have to wait for another couple of days to make a video...sorry. -
I really like many of P-Lego's MOCs. I wanted to build two of my favorites, the Lancia Stratos and one of the rally cars. Alas, I'm short on PF, so I thought I'd mix it up with alternate designs using fake engines and HOG steering. I present the Lancia Stratos alternate and the Rally Car alternate: The Lancia was an interesting challenge mimicking the original body while fitting a full-sized fake transverse V6, rear differential, and full suspension. I eventually gave up having a suspension on the rear and just went with the front (too little space). It came together in three separate pieces: front, middle, and rear. The suspension in the front has a lot of travel and a tight turning radius. Some of the proportions are different, especially the fenders in the front and the height of the rear trunk (had to make things fit). There is actually room in the front for a spare tire (in place of what would have been the battery box), but I didn't have one when I made the model. For the rally car, I wanted a full suspension with a fake engine and rear differential as compact as possible. It has a mini fake V6 in the front. This was built in two parts, the chassis with all the moving parts, and the body with the HOG wheel. The body attaches to the chassis with 6 easily accessible pins. When connected together, its a pretty sturdy connection. In theory, the chassis could fit to many alternate bodies. More images for the Rally car, Stratros, and both. Currently working on some instructions (LDD is quite a time sink). I'll post when I get around to it. Thanks for looking, and thanks P-Lego for the cool MOCs. -
Four wheel drive on Lego Technic cars with small wheels is hard to realize, as they become relatively too wide (which is ugly) and the ground clearance is also compromised. The problem then is: how to get the same grip back with only rear wheel drive? Then you need to push something 'extra' in the back of your already crammed, small nice-looking vehicle... This concept is an approach to keep this 'something extra' as small as possible while giving awesome and unexpected grip to the car. (At least, I was astonished by what it achieved!) Instead of typing a lot, I've put it all into a video with the theory of how it all works at the back of the video to let the 7 billion minus 1000 viewers that are not interested into more advanced Technic stuff experience how it works in practice on a 2 cm (that is: inchy) thick ice floor. As for the car, it is built from Power Functions spares as all my L-motors (which have quickly become the main workhorse for every Technic builder) are ehm... in use. That is why you find me using a geared up XL motor, which gave me memories of the good old times when the poor knob wheel parts splattered around. Sharp images of the car and mechanism explanation can be found on: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=564319. On MocPages (beware, there is a piece of code there that simply destroys anything such as image resolution on .png files...) http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/428881 Video: I finally have found PovRay so (with many thanks to all those who make that software) I can present a high-quality render: -
Mini Rally Racer
z3_2drive posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hello Everyone! I'm back with a nice little MOC that i built a couple days ago. I actually first built it last year but never had the time for pictures, so I rebuilt it from my memory. It has rear wheel drive via one buggy motor and 20t/diff gear combo. It has all wheel independent suspension-since I wanted the front and rear width to be the same, the rear isnt double wishbone. It's extremely light and has servo steering. All powered by one of my 10 volt batteries. I had to use some interesting bracing techniques in order to connect and strengthen the whole car with as little pieces as possible, but I couldnt find a simple enough way to brace the front suspension to the chassis so in a hard crash the front axle may come off. Pics: ^it gets quite dirty after prolonged outdoor use the front bull bar (same one from the 8048 buggy set) bends inward during a front end hit, so it definitely helps protect the car if it loses signal from IR receiver: In order for weight saving I used flex axles, which give a nice tight grip around the battery: Money shot suspension showcase ^when resting the rear suspension has neutral camber, when it is raised it has slight positive camber, but when leaning into a turn and it compresses, it has negative camber, which can actually help handling a bit: overall it has good ground clearance for its size, which allows for good performance on bumpy asphalt and light offroading, but for offoading it relies on wheel speed rather than low speed torque driving outdoors and through fresh rainwater puddles eventually collects dirt and water, which can get into places where you don't want it... ^but luckily dirt will fall of after a good shake once it has dried and water, as long as it is fresh rain/streamwater won't ruin motors/connectors, only pool/saltwater/grimy water will mess up motors, but I made sure the battery stayed dry And here's some burnout/drift shots: my new desktop background: ENJOY!