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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    @kbalage, @brunojj1, I didn't really take the time to explain how I got it working yesterday. I was too excited . Like @kbalage said, you don't need to pair with the BuWizzes and the blinking green light means 'ready to connect' or 'ready to start the engine' in BuWizz terms (or 'ready to setup' if you didn't already). When I first tried the BuWizz app, I immediately pressed 'Start the engine', which gave me a message saying something like: "First setup your BuWizz". I interpreted this as 'first pair your BuWizz'. The could really be explained better in the user guide. Because I use 2 BuWizzes, I had to use the Crane profile, which is not very intuitive, again this could be explained better in the user guide. After setting up the Crane profile I pressed 'Start the engine', but this consistently led to connection failure on my Android One Xiaomi MI A1. Starting a profile with a single BuWizz did work. Eventually I reverted to my old phone, a Samsung XCover 3, and now I could connect 2 BuWizzes. But this phone is very slow, which made the BuWizzes respond very slow to my interactions on the phone's screen. This resulted in some severe crashes in my living room . Eventually I reset my old phone to it's factory settings and installed only the BuWizz app. Now it works very responsive. All together the BuWizzes feel a little bit experimental. I can live with that, because in my case it adds a little to a sense of pioneering, which fits my 4WD buggy project, but in general I think BuWizz should improve their user guide and should add a custom profiling feature to their app.
  2. Didumos69
    After a first drive inside our house I made a few small changes. I decided to introduce a little toe-out by default to compensate for the toe-in that results from traction. And I now use an 8L axle with end-stop to avoid the 12t thin bevel gear from sliding off it's axle. So this morning I took it outside and made a first outdoor test-drive. And this did not disappoint me. In normal mode (fast mode, ludicrous turned off) it handles really well. In ludicrous mode (fast mode, ludicrous turned on) I had a hard time steering (this is my first RC outdoor drive ever ) and eventually it bumped hard into frozen mudd and gave me this: And here's a compilation video of the rides I made this morning:
  3. Didumos69
    I tried with some obstacles under a carpet and it performs really well. I'm thinking of shooting a video outside tomorrow. The only weak point sofar are the towballs connected to the gearrack. When one of the front wheels hits something hard, one pops out. Sadly enough II don't have the Claas tires.
  4. Didumos69
    Here's a first raw video of drive inside the house. I don't have any experiences with RC, I'm a terrible driver so far, haha. Not in the fastest mode yet. And here a longer raw demo. Could be, it can hit the ground. Travel is beyond the ground.
  5. Didumos69
    Thanks guys for the help. I got it working now. My new android one phone doesn't connect to two buwizzes, starting the engines always fails, but with my old phone it works. Don't know what to think of this, but it works. Thanks!
  6. Didumos69
    So I now have two buwizzes and charged both for 3 hours. I turned them on and both started to blink green for a long time and then turned off, a state not described in the user guide. I turned them on again and tried to pair my phone to both of them, as they were both discovered as Bluetooth device. For buwizz 1, pairing timed out bringing the buwizz in a non-blinking green state. After this, buwizz 1 can not be turned off anymore and is no longer discoverable as a Bluetooth device. Also plugging in a charger does not change this state. For buwizz 2, pairing results in a "pairing rejected by buwizz' message on both my phones, consistently. So nothing is working. I feel deeply disappointed and hate electronics even more than I already did. Did anyone have a similar experience or does anybody have an idea what's wrong?
  7. Didumos69
    Thanks @proran! I regard that as a big compliment. Btw, I somewhat enhanced the dark video of last night...
  8. Didumos69
    Thanks! I did not, but thanks for the suggestion. I don't see a reason to change their position though. They are secured well right now and sit satisfyingly low. You are right that the L-motors ate not going to give the speed buggy motors would. However, my intention is to build something strong rather than fast. It should be able to perform in rough terrain and take climbs with ease. Besides that I prefer using present time parts. And I use two BuWizzes to get the best out of these L-motors. Earlier in this thread @kbalage posted a nice video of all kinds of 4 L-motors configurations. That video made me decide to go with 2 BuWizzes. Today I received the BuWizzes, but before I start test-driving I wanted to reinforce a few things. For instance the way the wheels are attached to the the turntable wheel hubs. After a few drops the wheels detach from the pins even with bars inserted in the pins. So I replaced the pins with 4L axles with end-stop. At the ends sticking out of the wheel I attached half bushes and several 3L levers (yellow). I tested this setup thoroughly and now the wheels stay put. Other things I improved: I improved the front suspension by moving the mounting point for the shocks on top of the suspension arms one stud inward. And I reinforced the way the rear suspension arms are mounted to the chassis. All feels very solid now and I'm slowly getting confident this is going to work out fine. Here's a short video.
  9. Didumos69
    Great addition ! I did this for the rear diff in my rugged supercar. Btw, the 5.5L axle can be inserted from the inside of the frame without any bending if you come in from the right side of the frame. With the right side, I mean the side that has no ridges to the sides of the pin-holes.
  10. Didumos69
    Here's an excerpt from my Tilting go-cart, showing everything that I think is important in bracing a differential and it's input and output axles. To avoid slipping gears and sliding axles... ...use a 5x7 frame to make sure there is no movement in the primary supporting pin holes whatsoever. ...make sure the input axle is supported not only by the frame but also further down the line. This wil keep the axle straight and reduce the transversal movement of the bevel gear ...make sure the output axles can't slide. This can be obtained by using axle connectors that can't go anywhere. In the excerpt below I combined that idea with the use of locked-in 5.5L axles to attach the wheels to. Btw, supporting axles properly will not only reduce chances of slipping gears, but it will also result in a very smooth running gear system.
  11. Didumos69
    This will never work under high torque, because it is friction-locked. Parts will slide off the axles and cause the bevel gear to slip.
  12. Didumos69
    I thought the start of voting usually gets front paged.
  13. Didumos69
    Al though I did not post before, I did follow this thread and really enjoyed your approach and seeing your build evolve. I would not call it a failure. You've probably enjoyed the building process too and learned a few things even though the end results is not completely satisfying. Instead of saying failure I would simply say abandoning or dismantling. Failure sounds like it has all been in vein.
  14. Didumos69
    Thanks for your interest @Lox Lego! I'm especially focused on making everything form-locked. And the shape of the frame is very much guided by that requirement. Eventually I want this to be as much fun as a real RC buggy. Nothing should fall off or come apart during a rough ride. Thanks @Leonardo da Bricki! I have no ideas for the bodywork yet. You're right that this model is mostly inspired by the class one unlimited buggy, although it has 4wd, which is not very common for a class one buggy. However, I deliberately used a neutral title to allow myself some freedom. It might turn out to be some kind of concept buggy. Thanks @agrof! I'm using my Porsche as a parts source, which is why I use a mix of black and lbg parts. The 9l links really add something. Actually, they form-lock the liftarms connecting the inclined front module to the center section. They sit very tight, they don't fit in LDD. The orientation of the red connectors is defined by the axle on the inner side. That axle runs through the outer end of a bent liftarm.
  15. Didumos69
    Thanks guys! I think I have made the necessary changes to the design to fix the issues. Here are some renders of the complete chassis.
  16. Didumos69
    It has the same wheelbase and track-width as my hammerhead and it currently is a few studs shorter. But to me it seems bigger too, I think because it is higher. I don't have a clue on what to do with the bodywork, but I want to keep it lightweight, so it will probably be something minimalistic. But I first wanted to test-drive the chassis.
  17. Didumos69
    Though I appreciate the attempt - and your W16 certainly looks great - I think it does need quite some improvements to make it work in real life. There are some bricks connected with only one stud and the thin liftarms are likely to collide with the cilinders, which will cause the engine to stutter or even fall apart as it is brick-built.
  18. Didumos69
    Yesterday I had some time to build the real life model. The chassis is very rigid, it can probably do with less parts to reduce the weight a little. The rear suspension arms were actually more easy to build than I thought. Things to improve: The rear suspension is a little too rigid. I will have to lower the chassis mounting points of the shocks or combine a hard shock with a soft shock. The front suspension is a little too soft. I will have to lift the chassis mounting points of the shocks. The rear suspension arms need to be mounted better. There is too much slack in the swing arm - chassis connection.
  19. Didumos69
    Very nice model! This is Technic the way I like it
  20. Didumos69
    Okay, thanks for the advice guys! I'll leave things the way they are and will first build this version. Then I will figure out how to route the cable exactly. The cables are much longer than needed, so I have to put them away somewhere too.
  21. Didumos69
    The Porsche was first presented at the Spielwarenmesse (Germany) in January 2016. This year's Spielwarenmesse is this weekend.
  22. Didumos69
    Okay, I'm new to all these cables, so I will take these comments quite seriously. I should be able to improve on this. I can lower the BuWizzes, which would allow the cables to run through the 5x7 frames. Or I can make the distance between the 5x7 frames 9 studs and place the BuWizzes on a half stud grid. Back to the drawing table.
  23. Didumos69
    You could use bricksafe.com to share such files. You can simply post a link to a file here.
  24. Didumos69
    Thanks for the advice guys! I checked and I think I'm good. It doesn't give any stress to the cable. I will keep an eye on this of course and if it somehow doesn't feel right, I will change the setup to make more space.
  25. Didumos69
    That's a good question. Going by this image (courtesy of @kbalage) I reckoned there would be enough space to have the cables bend over the 5x7 frames, but now that I look again you might be right. If someone knows this is not enough space, then please let me know.
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