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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    Thanks! Of course !
  2. Didumos69
    Thanks! The T-bone and the motor on the other side together prevent the two long black beams along the side of the suspension arm from sliding relative to each other. This gives a lot of stiffness and if I replace the T-bones with an alternative assembly I will loose part of this stiffness. I opt for function over form in this case... Thanks @DugaldIC. It was you who pushed me into the RC direction. It is more fun than I expected and the challenge to make everything form-locked with this kind of build is even bigger and more necessary than with a manual model. Thanks for challenging me! About the rear lights, I had some small light bars at the back of the roof and in the back above the engine compartment, but I wasn't happy with the back side of the car at all. The main problem was that the tail of the car was too much detached from the rest of the body and gave the model a bit of a pick-up taste, something I did not pursue. So I tried a few things and came up with two ideas, both relying on the Pythagorean triple (5,12,13): 1.) I could extend the black tubes along the roof sides all the way to the back of the car. This idea relies on an inclined (5,12,13)-triple, which makes almost perfect 157.5 degree angles, hence the use of #3 connectors. In fact the inclined (5,12,13)-triple makes a Pythagorean (3,4,12,13)-quadruple. 2.) At the back side of the cabin I replaced the stacked angled beams with 3 levels with different angles. The top beam makes a (5,12,13) triple. I need to work on the structure behind the seats to secure everything, but I thought I'll first check with you whether this is actually an improvement, from an aesthetic perspective I mean. So, please let me know what you think.
  3. Didumos69
    No, I mean this one:
  4. Didumos69
    While preparing the frame for it's coachwork, I noticed there is quite some torsional flex in the rear suspension arms. I could significantly reduce this flex by attaching a T-bone along the sides of the suspension arms. Too bad these T-bones don't exit in black..
  5. Didumos69
    I think trans-light blue trans-medium blue would work better than trans-neon green. In my opion a blue shade over front lights works very well in general. The Venom you're showing has a bit of blue in it's headlights too. Btw, there is one thing I like about the bodywork in particular: the bottom side of the front window sits deeper than the start of the hood. For me this adds a lot to realism as it is very common for sports cars - even for normal cars - to have the front window extend underneath the hood, but I don't recall seeing anything like it in MOCs, also not in @Madoca 1977's Icarus.
  6. Didumos69
    Great looking supercar and very interesting gearbox. The great number of extenders will introduce a lot of delay in the drivetrain and I have a little doubt about using so many idler gears, but much depends on the bracing and If you say it runs smoothly, I believe you. I would like to know a little more about the shifter in particular. EDIT: I'v been able to read the shifter mechanism from the gearbox screenshot. I see the similarity with other MOCs now .
  7. Didumos69
    Eventually I expect the rear arms to be compressed about 3 out of 7 studs under the vehicle's own weight, which would give the model the appearance shown in the renders. This would mean the rear arms can expand almost as much as compress, which will make the rear wheels glue to the ground better on an uneven surface.
  8. Didumos69
    I tried that too. It would extend the horizontal split and emphasize the horizontal layout of the build, which is the opposite of what I'm trying to achieve; I want the black/orange split to distract from the horizontal lines and add an illusion of flow. I'm already using all space I have without obstructing suspension travel. When the suspension is completely compressed, the front springs allmost touch the hood and the rear springs almost touch the outer sides of the black panels in the back. I made up my mind and this is what it will be. Time to move on to the interior. That's quite right, but I still appreciate @Jeroen Ottens and others for sharing their thoughts without taking into account all my self-imposed rules. A fresh point of view may always serve as a source of inspiration. Thanks for the info, I believe you. I think I'm good because I use a lot of black already, also in the chassis, but I won't be making the body all-black. Finally, here's a top view render.
  9. Didumos69
    Thanks @Jeroen Ottens, I have been going forth and back with that idea. I agree that the orange piece is detached from the rest of the orange part of the body now, but the problem I have with an all orange rear compartment, is that it would make the biggest orange section in the entire body. I personally prefer the idea of completely black wheel wells in the front and in the rear. But it remains to be a hard choice. These renders should illustrate what I mean. Yeah, they are expensive. I'm afraid it will prove very hard to replace the shocks with small hard ones. Over the weekend I even tweaked the rear suspension to take complete advantage of the 2 stud spring travel of the large shocks. I moved the point where the shocks are mounted to the suspension arms half a stud forward. This should prepare the back for the extra weight the body is going to bring along. The rear suspension travel is now over 7 studs. Thanks! Good to know I'm on the right track now. This car absolutely needs 7 lights on top
  10. Didumos69
    I worked my way to the back and addressed the feedback from @Permo, @agrof, @zweihander, @Jeroen Ottens and @Leonardo da Bricki. I tried to use the 13x3 curved panel in the roof to make it less flat, but that simply doesn't fit this type of car. It makes it too cartoonish. But after painting the roof orange, I found out that @agrof's suggestion to make the sides of the roof black works much better than with the white roof and makes the roof less square at the same time. Also a bigger light bar, as suggested by @Leonardo da Bricki, adds to the new appearance of the roof. In the back I made an engine compartment. I have become a big fan of 2stokers RC buggy designs and wanted to give the tail a little body instead of leaving it an uncovered engine bed. And finally this: Ever since I was a young boy I have been intrigued by cars that were used for expeditions through the jungle, dessert or whatever. So I decided to designs two versions: A race version and an expedition version. The expedition version adds a spare tire and a roof rack to the race version. Let me know what you think.
  11. Didumos69
    Thanks @Leonardo da Bricki! I get your point. I don't want to add too much finery, mainly because I want nothing too fall off during a rough ride or even a roll-over. But I'll see what I can do when I rework the roof.
  12. Didumos69
    Perhaps not, but.let.this be a comfort: Dreams bring more.spirit than money .
  13. Didumos69
    Thanks for the suggestion. It does give inspiration. I will try a few schemes tomorrow. Thanks @Jeroen Ottens! So it's clear the roof needs rework. I didn't realize the Xerion has a white roof, but I get your point. Perhaps I can use some curved 3x13 panels to make it less flat. I'll figure something out.
  14. Didumos69
    Thanks for the feedback guys! I tried with orange roof / white stripes and with black roof / white stripes, but white stripes somehow don't work. After painting the roof white it reminded me of the color scheme of a Toyota FJ Cruiser that I like very much. That in turn made me color the rollbar orange, which gave a very nice effect in my opinion. I like the idea, so I tried, but it doesn't really work. It flows nicely with the A- and C-pillars, but with the black stripes in the middle it's just too much. EDI|T: Maybe I could make a black roll-cage tube right underneath the sides of the roof, one stud inward. Will try that. Great suggestion, but apparently Bobcat is also a well-known construction equipment brand, which might give the wrong association. Would extending the engine bed with two studs to the back - without moving the engine - work too? I was already planning to extend the tail with two studs. I placed the engine this much to the back, because that is what I see a lot in Class 1 buggy's. I did not see them slip on normal surface. I guess the RPM of the left and right L-motors is not the same in turns. Here are some images showing the current state of the back side, but like I said, this section is still under development. And some close-ups of the cabin:
  15. Didumos69
    Slowly progressing towards the back. Though nothing is exactly the same as @agrof's class 1 buggy (the model that inspired me), I did try to have it breath the same spirit. Everything is firmly locked and in system. I also added a rollbar (orange) and continued the stripes in the hood over the rooftop. They also continue over the back, but that section is not finished yet. If all works out fine, the model should be liftable by the roof. Btw, I'm thinking of renaming this model to Wolf, or Red wolf. Let me know what you think.
  16. Didumos69
    What a familiar sound ! Great job! Does it run smooth in all gears?
  17. Didumos69
    Finally took the time to study this topic. Last time I visited was right after the first post. With a main focus on bodywork I didn't really bother, but now that I visit again I have to say, this is evolving into a very sophisticated MOC. Not only the body, but also the chassis and especially the 7 speed gearbox is really cool. I'm looking forward to see how you are going to implement seats, as I have the impression there is not much space. Please keep on going, I will certainly follow this more closely.
  18. Didumos69
    Thanks for your thoughts guys! I think I will leave it in, as it adds to coolness. I will try to install it in a way that allows for easy removal, so I can always make it optional. I agree with @agrof that an engine is more eye candy than a spare tire. The tires are actually a bit oversized for this scale, so a spare tire is going to rise above the roof and look massive. Another reason is that a spare tire somewhere in the back is going to wobble. And I don't like wobbly things, in case you didn't already know . If it ends up with a fake fake engine I will at least add a HoG to it, so it can be driven manually . Neeh. No contest. No bricks.
  19. Didumos69
    Yea, that was my idea, to continue the stripes over the rooftop all the way to the back of the car. And don't worry, I won't cover the whole framework . I'm a bit on a crossroad now. I could very easily drop in a V8 engine and an M-motor to drive it. Would look cool I think, but will add extra weight and I actually decided to regard this as a model of an RC model, which in general don't have fake engines. I don't have a working steering wheel either. Any thoughts?
  20. Didumos69
    Finally the Porsche hubs and wheels are available in LDD. I updated the LDD-files: Rugged supercar, Flat AWD chassis.
  21. Didumos69
    You already have some very special features, 4wd, brakes, 4D+N+R gearbox, gear-dependent steering... I would size the engine to the gearbox and hold on to the front suspension. The LEGO cylinders are too big for this scale anyway, so a V6 would still be big enough to be impressive. So I woul go for option 1. And btw, don't feel intimidated by other WIPs with 7 and 8 speed gearboxes, you've already been there .
  22. Didumos69
    I would also try to hold on to the pushrod suspension and would drop 2 cylinders and drop the engine blocks like @Jonfensu suggested. Either way, I like the idea of a long hood, I think it will allow your bodywork designer to come up with something very original.
  23. Didumos69
    Great progress and intriguing gear box! I also prefer the dark azure / red/ white combo. In my perception the separation lines between the colors add a lot to the overall appearance and draws the attention away from the somewhat bulky shaping here and there. The clear separation between a red bed and a black cabin in my rugged super car had the same effect. One question. Does the shifter have a return-to-center feature? If so, I would really like to know how you solved that.
  24. Didumos69
    For me using software speeds up the process. I can quickly check certain solutions I have in mind, much faster than when I would have to try every idea manually. But only after building it in real life I know for sure whether a solution works out fine or not. Also, when I change something digitally which makes a lot of sense, then I will never hesitate to actually do it, not even when it means I have to take the whole model apart again. For instance, recently I decided to move the lengthwise 5x7 frames at the heart of the main structure one stud forward to make space for an improved mounting point for the rear suspension arms. You can imagine I had to take everything apart to implement that.
  25. Didumos69
    Thanks! Haha, yes it does. The 6L links sticking out will be part of the front window. I might also migrate to dark azure, which seems to be more trending anyway .
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