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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    This is awesome! Really cool mechanism. To me this is the most interesting side of the LEGO Technic spectrum. Of course you should enter.
  2. Didumos69
    Same question here. I would like to shoot a video tomorrow.
  3. Didumos69
    Update. In the past week I spent hours and hours to get an escapement working with the 8T saw blade. It all comes so precise. I had many configuration working, but it all relied on finger-nail spacings and that's simply not my style. I want something that is easily reproducible and preferably in system. Eventually - after a last nightly building session - the trick was to deliberately introduce some slack in the stoppers by using frictionless pins. I now have two types of stoppers that both work, one with minifig hammers and one with pneumatic T-pieces. I prefer the pneumatic pieces, because the are locked-in, the hammers could slide out off position even though this didn't happen in my test runs. The whole setup does not require any fine-tuning, you can't build it wrong. You only need to make sure all gears run smoothly. This means I could make instructions for this build. Now I'm in the process of fine-tuning the weight and length of the pendulum. The best run I've had sofar gave me 50 minutes autonomy. Here are some WIP video's:
  4. Didumos69
    That's my goal too, but that doesn't make it easier. I also want to have some level of symmetry. Most complicating factors are self-imposed rules . My current implementation is completely in-system.
  5. Didumos69
    Well, these are just ideas, I'm still awaiting the saw blade piece, so I can't test it. I believe you instantly. Meanwhile I have been rearranging (digitally) the back-side of the clock to make it 3 studs shorter. That should bring the whole clock a little closer to the wall. Before: After: The gearing in the back now looks like this. It provides a 20:1 ratio. The rear output of the diff is locked by default, which gives the diff a 2:1 output / input ratio. The rear output slips during wind-up, so the hands of the clock don't move backwards. Bracing everything well was extremely hard. I will build this this afternoon.
  6. Didumos69
    Are all vehicle entries sofar pullback vehicles? No-one making a wind-up vehicle with a wind-up HoG?
  7. Didumos69
    You're right. However, the finer the teeth, the smaller the amplitude it gives to the pendulum. When the amplitude is too small, the pendulum starts oscillating. I hope the saw blade will provide a big enough amplitude... I tried the version with the knob wheel. It works, but it doesn't give equal tick intervals.
  8. Didumos69
    Even better! Thanks!
  9. Didumos69
    This is starting to look better and better. Somehow the blue barrel is out of tone now. I would like to 'hear' the clock .
  10. Didumos69
    I suppose it's the non-AWD version of his 5+R gearbox, which can be found here. There is also an AWD version. Instructions for both are 10 dollars. He used a modified version (4+R) in his 1969 Camaro SS. There are some good images of that gearbox on this page. However, I think even a 5+R gearbox is overkill at this scale. It would be unproportionally big compared to the engine, which is very nice btw. I would settle for a 3+R gearbox.
  11. Didumos69
    Great entry! Nice to see a non-vehicle model. And excellently executed. Are you sure the custom stickers are allowed?
  12. Didumos69
    It's been quiet here for a while. I received the ordered parts and finished building last friday. It was my sons birthday yesterday. I put the clock on a wall in the livingroom so family and friends could admire my work. Most were very enthousiastic about it, but a few pointed out that there still is room for improvement: The axle that is subject to the escapement mechanism makes a 360 degree rotation every 6 ticks (3 pendulum periods). If I would be able to somehow increase the number of ticks for a complete rotation, I would get a longer autonomy with the same gear ratios. So, as the number of competitors - and clocks - in this competition grows, I thought it would be worthwhile to make a further investigation into the escapement mechanism. I went back to the drawing table and here are some ideas that might work. In my current implementation, I have 3 pins sticking out of 2 belt wheels, which push the pendulum to the left and right. If one of the saw blade options below would work, it would give me about (8 / 3) x 18 = 43 minutes autonomy. I ordered the saw blade piece, so I will only know later this week.
  13. Didumos69
    Than add Eurobricks as search word. https://www.google.lv/search?q=lego+nxt+sumo+bots+eurobricks&rlz=1C1GGRV_enLV751LV751&oq=lego+nxt+sumo+bots+eurobricks&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.6231j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
  14. Didumos69
    Thank you very much for rewarding me with a first place in your Top (20)17 @Thirdwigg! Like I commented on your website: I hope to someday build something in the same collaborative way again. Thanks!
  15. Didumos69
    I like it! Using gold and brown would be better, but I suppose you used the colors you had available. Despite the colors I thinks this fits the clock better than 'art deco'.
  16. Didumos69
    I think @Jeroen Ottens Is doing this for his latest WIP. He uses belt wheels to for working brakes at the cost of a worse steering offset.
  17. Didumos69
    Great answer @brunojj1! Just a minor addition: the Porsche rims don't have axle holes, which is the only drawback I see. As for portal hubs, the rims are so big they might fit custom portal hubs.
  18. Didumos69
    Cool! Your escapement is much more efficient than mine! I suppose there won't be much torque left to drive more hands, but this is a piece of art in itself. How much does the nut weigh? I guess max 10gr. You could use 6 of these (click to go to Bricklink) inserted in a pair of belt wheels on each end of the pendulum. They weigh 1.82gr each and are available for 15 euro cents on Bricklink in Germany. I have only four of them (EDIT the assembly below weighs 8gr, with 6 metal pins and 12 half bushes it will be 14gr or more):
  19. Didumos69
    Okay, good to know
  20. Didumos69
    @Jim, @Milan, hope you can do something about it.
  21. Didumos69
    Thanks for the suggestion! I don't really like using bricks, but maybe in this case... They do give a nice stiff connection.
  22. Didumos69
    Thanks! I tested the thin pendulum arm I showed earlier, but their was too much slack in the connections, which gives some undesired resonance in the arm when the pulback generates the most force. So I will stick to beams for the pendulum arm instead. This will probably be the final design. An all black pendulum arm looks a little too massive, so I opted for a white line in the center of the arm. I'm now waiting for the necessary white parts to arrive...
  23. Didumos69
    That's what I was wondering too...?
  24. Didumos69
    Excellent work! The drivetrain and the chassis are very well done. The symmetry in the dual drivetrain is a very 'good smell' imo. And I love the bodywork style !
  25. Didumos69
    Okay, that makes sense, although... When I look at your comparison image I"d say the front section of the body has the correct width. But the image also shows the nose of your replica is one stud too long. In addition, the bottom line of the front window in your replica sits one stud behind the line that marks the beginning of the hood in the real model. This makes the perceived window-hood border one stud off too. This is not wrong or something, I'm just trying to rationalize how I perceive this model. I like to do that too, but when a car is meant to be a replica of a real model and I feel something is off, I also try to rationalize my perception.
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