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Jurss

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Jurss

  1. Replace nofrictionless pin with 3L pin (blue one). Friction increase wont be critical. Maybe frictionless 3L pin would be also ok. Then put on it part and with 2l (mostly red) axle connect shock absorber. You could try to build steering with 9L links, then steering wont be so much affected by suspension travel. O, just realised, that there is 1.5L pin ...
  2. Don't see a problem in using BT. It's pretty hard in Lego target markets not to buy smartphone with BT for kids. agree
  3. Yes, somehow missed this in description - edited/clarified.
  4. For me also back looks to high ans so also those rear swingrams too long. But it's just my opinion, but I like overall body shaping. About these tires
  5. Nice model. Isn't really possible to put HOG steering somewhere on the top? Then You could make rear axle more sturdy and even put there differential.
  6. Pretty easy with something like this Yes, I always tray to do so, but this time this was easyeast. I have to check, maybe I could put axle to back, because axle to steering wheel is going to left side. Idea is like this Maybe it is possible, maybe there could be conflict (that was first idea, and why hog is there where it is) bteween axles (marked with red star). I'll try in the evening. Forgot to mention, it is no problem to put steering wheel on right side.
  7. @I_Igor that's an option. Didn't thought about that.
  8. That was easyer, but now it is chaged. Had to change to one shock absorber on each side, also rebuilt mudguard connection to suspension. Also now there is gearing, so that engine spins faster. Better pictures could be later, when there will be more sun in my photostudio Thank You! I was even not planning them, but somehow they appeared there pretty easy, so I'm also satisfied. O, almost forgot, I4 engine could be too high or I'll have to move seats one stud to front or make wheel base one stud longer (move rear axle assebly one stud to back). This last could be easyest, but anyway, engine would be to high and pop out, it won't look good.
  9. Everything started here thanks to @Leonardo da Bricki front axle and front part was pretty easy. Very challenging was to build narrower (by 2 studs) rear axle with differential and really independent suspension, but somehow I managed it As the result there was rear axle with uutput/input to top or front. Some work in progress And the ens result: some RWD buggy street legal (because of lights) HOG steering and working steering wheel, with possibility to put on right or left side independent suspension on all wheels mudguards moving together with suspension on all wheels boxer type 2cyl engine I'll try to fit 4cyl inline engine later. Now It seems, that should fit.
  10. This seems most popular part for new technic sets. It is almost in every 2018 set.
  11. If You meant ALL panels, then clear.
  12. Both - front and rear are connected to suspension. I have idea about making front mudguards to move also with steering, but it would be too massive ...
  13. I realy like rally car, it really TECHNIC
  14. that's typo - needed "those"
  15. Some progress Was not planning, but mudguards appeared
  16. Very good model but hose wings ...
  17. Nice model, but You are missing one cylinder in You model according to drawing In 42043 there was one. Or was it too hard to implement in this scale?
  18. Those wheels - I knew this kind, but that implementation in Lego Technic ...
  19. Idea comes from thanks to @Leonardo da Bricki First I tried to make pretty narrow fornt axle with independent suspension, then I needed to build also as narrow as possible rear axle with really independent suspension and differential, but not with floating differential, and now I'm this far. Now the hardest , body.
  20. so far so good ...
  21. OK, some firendly suggestion, how i would do the HOG. Of course, it is Your moc, but, as LDD is available ... https://bricksafe.com/files/Jurss/visskas/speedster_fs.lxf
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