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Luke_likes_Lego

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by Luke_likes_Lego

  1. Space modulars !! Market Space Space Emporium
  2. As Aanchir said.... ...they're never quite the same. Exhibit A and B: courtesy mini.com.au & volkswagen.com.au Lovable cars...but not the originals Cheers, LLL
  3. Hi Artifex...and welcome back to the hobby, Can't go too far wrong with any of those choices.....Emporium will probably be the first that starts to become 'hard to get'.... so less chance of regret whilst you save up for the other two !! Cheers, LLL
  4. Hi there, There are some ideas here: Just click the link that says "Shameless plug for my Cuusoo project": Shameless plug for my Cuusoo project Cheers, LLL
  5. Super build!!!
  6. Hi there xboxtravis7992, Will you be building a tender to permanently go with the engine? If so you could consider motorising the tender car with a PF train motor, using the tender body to hold the battery and IR receiver. This would save a lot of fiddling at the engine. The catch is that you'd have to run a wire from tender to engine for the lights. Cheers, LLL
  7. I agree, but is that not the case from everyone's point of view? The people who bought it at a reasonable price are happy The people who bought it at a unreasonable price are reasonably happy The people who can't buy it at a reasonable price are unhappy TLG has to maximise cost/benefit As the wise and lovable Ted DiBiase (snr) says...'Everybody's got a price..." Cheers, LLL
  8. Could a 'clear background' (as phantom59 put it), just refer to the background...not the white. ie the effect on the left below, as opposed to the effect on the right? I'm no expert in these things , but it would be good if it became the norm. Cheers, LLL
  9. Hear, hear Phantom59, ....printed bricks definitely a preference against full colour too Cheers, LLL
  10. Yeah, and the US mint should re-mint the Saint-Gaudens Gold Double Eagle Coin at $1 a throw. I just can't afford the $7.59 Million (going to re-sellers) for this $1 coin
  11. I wonder if an email to Jaguar would get them to re-release the E-Type? Cheers, LLL
  12. At 5 studs = 6 (minifig size) feet (~30cm), one 32 stud road plate = 0.006 miles. On that scale, that would be a lot of plates for two miles....some compression to your room size is probably called for :-) Cheers, LLL
  13. Hi Wolfolo ... nice design, Is below too simplistic for the effect you were going for? Cheers, LLL
  14. Thanks again all, You might if it's logical/natural/clear/obvious/sensible But....now that I am wiser .....swapping out the base, or bringing the non-PF remote into the mix seems the way to go. ...and as a bonus I just might get a horn Cheers, LLL
  15. Ahhh, thanks 1974, I think I understand why I misinterpreted the IR/RC system now......ie. to get power out of that white box, you need to point the RC remote control at it (at least once) So, that brings it nicely back to the first question: "Is there a logical/natural/clear/obvious/sensible way to bypass this? [preferably, but not necessarily, without a mod] ?" Cheers, LLL
  16. Breaker, breaker...this here's the OP Hi again all - and thanks for taking an interest and offering assistance . My question was in no way intended to be a discussion about IR, or the physics inherent in its use. Sorry to confuse . Couple of clarifications will help. I guess I have misinterpreted something I read about 'pre-PF' infra-red remote trains (ie 7897 and 7898 only) years ago ie. I incorrectly thought that you actually had to be holding the remote button down to make it go (ie like an accelerator/gas pedal, as opposed to a 'throttle' style. ("They both keep operating if out of sight." Thanks peterab)) Aim is to use one (PF) remote (happy to include IR motor in the setup) So, from learning (1), here are two alternatives as I interpret things: Chassis 6x30 + 8886 Extension Wire + 8884 PF IR Receiver + 8886 Extension Wire + Electric, Train Motor 9V RC Train or Chassis 6x30 + 8886 Extension Wire + 8884 PF IR Receiver + 88002 PF Motor Would be interested to hear if anyone sees any problem with either of above....or if I'm missing a better way to do it (for a 'single remote' solution). Thanks, LLL
  17. Hi all, I've finally bought a 7897 Passenger Train, which I want to run alongside my PF setup. I haven't received it yet, but I'm interested if it's possible to route the power from the included: "white train chassis 6x30 with IR Receivers integrated battery (6xAA)" (see below pic from LEGO/toysperiod). through to a PF IR receiver, then to either the included motor or a PF train motor (preferably without a (permanent) physical modification). From what little I know about IR, the unit may have to be receiving an "ON" IR signal from the remote by 'line of sight', to work....so I guess my question is: Is there a logical/natural/clear/obvious/sensible way to bypass this? Thanks, LLL
  18. So cool !!!!! ....and very neat....no wire trails dragging everywhere. My long term goal (when kids are a little older) is to add light and trackside PF. Nice one alainneke. Looking forward to your BL article(s) JopieK LLL
  19. Hi there Wolfolo, I couldn't access your Brickshelf pic...says "...folder is not yet public" Cheers, LLL
  20. Breathtaking! Congratulations on your collection ... (oh, and your new house) LLL
  21. Hi Steve, I like the AAA box as it's far more convenient to fit. I had a few spares of the AA version though, and posted these attempts to integrate a few months back: http://www.eurobrick...topic=76107&hl= This is more a project for 'using a spare'...if I was buying new, I'd go forr 8881 every time Cheers, LLL
  22. Agree, 7939 cargo train is a 'good call' LLL
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