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Everything posted by pirzyk
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Why not just make your own with 2x6 plate and straight rail? http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3228c#T=C
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If you have multiple motors in one engine then yes it can, so can the LEGO receiver. If there are multiple engines then you will have a cabling issue and I would recommend two S-bricks
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You may want to get yourself some me model track. The problem with the track as parts is it falls apart too easily to be usable. Many of us wind up kraggling the track together.
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To get out of the inner loop I would suggest another crossover as a mirror of the one you already have. Many of us who do this have modified (I.e. cut) the switch turnout so it fits in a 32x48 space. Ballasting the track keeps them aligned. You will find deals on parts but I personally avoid the auction sites as i feel they are usually overpriced or the sets are "hot". I would look at bricklink.com to be able to buy individual parts. It takes a while before one has enough stuff for a decent layout. Also you will find the use of flex track problematic and we avoid it where possible.
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I am a bit confused by your use of "consist" but I will try to answer your question. The S-brick itself usually gets installed in the train as a replacement for the LEGO receiver. The S-brick software can operate multiple S-brick trains at once. See zepbyr1934's writeup for details.
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Emerald Night Reborn - Flying Scotsman(update pictures of Coach)
pirzyk replied to marbleman's topic in LEGO Train Tech
Really nice job! Will you be displaying it at any shows in the future? I would love to see it run. -
This seems to me to be a remake of the Lego switch? Is the turnout radi different than what they use? I.e. R40 I will say I do have to cut the Lego switches to make the crossover but they are ballasted so there are no connection issues.
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Yea more studs are useful
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Ooohhh!!! On Shapeways yet?
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Nice, I do agree a black base plate would work well in addition to stickers/decals.
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I am looking for my 3rd camera. The first I picked up for $20 USD at the NMRA show in Indy. The size was great. Small enough to fit inside my CoNO engine. Instructions were in translated English from Chinese. When I got it to stream it was great (if only in SD) but it only lasted 5 min before it died. Charging seemed to be hit or miss. It sometimes worked again but not long enough. It looked similar to this one: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61xl4mkxQPL._SL1200_.jpg Next was the Polaroid Wi-Fi camera. It does HD and lasts for about 90 min between charges. The problem is it takes 2+ days to recharge. At least the car I have it sitting on makes it look a bit like a tanker car. It has been suggested to make a deep sea sub out of it. I really want a micro/spy cam to build into an engine like legoman666 has and that does HD is reliable. I looked at the Freddi before I bought the Polaroid and decided against it because of all the reviews that showed it having reliability issues.
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I too am I defeated in more window details! Very nice overall, love the color pallet.
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- 17 replies
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- software development
- lego train
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Security should be baked in from the outset, not a bolt on after the fact. Just because you can hook it up to the Internet does not mean you should.
- 17 replies
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- software development
- lego train
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South Boston :P
- 11 replies
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I got Constructable's winter village tram. Nice little set, now I just have to figure out how to motorize it!
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You could always do your on integration of pf/sbrick/9V
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Kickstarter: ME Models Tracks for both metal and ABS only track pieces
pirzyk replied to JopieK's topic in LEGO Train Tech
Provided you have working motors. If a 3rd party starts making motors at a reasonable price then 9V may have some legs. -
Thanks all. I agree the stickers make the model
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It was easier than throwing the unmodified Lego switches. Bonus is the unit can be moved to the other side to do a ladder.
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We learned quite a bit having the crossovers and R104 curves at the show. 1) 3d printed parts loose clutch power as you play with them, they wear faster than ABS. Not really a shock but it was noticeable. (in the below pics you will see a 1x2 White Tille on the outside curves, to hold the pieces together. 2) the white parts pick up quite a bit of dirt from the trains :P 3) The paint seemed to hold up better on the tracks, though we did see slight wear on the very ends: 4) The design is spot on, the only item we found has been already fixed (we were using not the latest prototype but an earlier version). More pics can be seen here: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=567004 (once approved by BrickShelf).
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NILTC had its Christmas Show at Cantigny this past weekend (more pics will be posted later). One of the models I created for the show (and as a Christmas Present) was a local Interurban Electric. The Chicago, Lombard and Wheaton (CL&W) line follows in the tradition of Murdoch17's BRS in that it is a fictitious line (though all the cities do exist). The train is modeled after a 1 1/2in scale model that pulls a circus train out at the Illinois Live Steamers (ILS) Club. It is fully PF'ed and lit using stock LEGO PF lights. It ran w/o a hitch on Saturday in it's maiden voyage. Its future travels are around a Christmas tree for the rest of the season. Fully PFed setup with stock LEGO lighting as well. The reference pic from the ILS:
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Nice! The only comment I have is this new train should have its own topic.
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You could argue that the paper skirts is a rediscovery of the belts in the un-articulated minifigs like in police set 585.