Beck

It exists in LDD Extended. You can recolor the part then copy & paste it to your file. I'm very impressed by your ability to use panels without creating clutter in the model.

I would like to live like this; however, as a student it's basically impossible. I think I know what you're getting at here. The fulcrum for the first stage is weak and far away from the center of the turnable. To mitigate this factor, I will use technic beams to connect the fulcrum to the technic holes on the turntable. It's a digital WIP so I'm jumping all around to different parts of the model and sometimes forget to finish the section I am working on.

Well this is embarrassing; especially because I own a 42009. Time to pillage! @I_Igor The problem with building IRL is that the process requires an extremely large collection of system bricks that I simply don't have. Building technic IRL is more practical because there are fewer types of parts and colors than those in system. For me, the easiest method of designing a model team creation is to use LDD and order the necessary parts off of bricklink. That being said, I will begin to order the parts required for my week off between terms.

Like almost all other trucks, they're solid axles. I was referring to TLG's Arocs in my previous response. Update 3: I have completed a sketch of the loading box to get an idea of the overall length and to aid in scaling the length of the 1st stage. I also covered the drive motor with the fuel tank and what appears to be the exhaust filter. Shown in the last photo is my idea for the rotating outrigger. The axle on the top will stay fixed relative to the outrigger, but the lower axle will slide in through the red gear as the outrigger extends. The problem is the range of movement. TLG's longest axle is 32l and the second longest is 12l. I would need an axle with a length of about 16l for the outrigger to be anywhere near effective. A possible solution would be to add a 2nd axle stage, but this increased height would not fit in the outrigger part. Any ideas? I'm considering cutting a 32l axle to length if need be, but I'm a bit hesitant to say the least. Thanks, Beck

What a fantastically unique model! I'm most impressed by the various angles of the connecting axles.

Good to see an old project be revived! Shaping looks good; however, I don't know how to critique it or give feedback since I do not know if the intended scale of the model has changed(1:38, 1:40, 1:45?). For now I'm going to assume it's still 1:45. Firstly, I really like the ledge and "steps" below the lights. Secondly, I would add a layer of transclear plates behind the transclear tiles on the windscreen to differentiate it from the lights. Although it's hard to tell, the cab looks a bit too tall from this angle, but I calculated that the height from the bottom of mainframe to the top of the cab should be 7.5 studs tall. I'm also curious about your opinion of the wheels size. Do you think the lego pf train wheel ruins the look of the traxx? Can't wait to see more!

Very impressive project. To me, your greatest skill is making near perfect use of space. I really like the minimal use of azure to contrast the white. What BuWizz mode did you use while filming?

Thank you! I'm going to stick to a studful chassis, since it is easier to build a studful bi-layer that resists bending stress much better than a comparable chassis utilizing technic beams. Although it is possible to create a chassis that is equally as strong using technic beams, it would require more vertical bracing, which would take up quite a bit more space. The suspension for axles 1 and 2 is nothing like the arocs'. Thanks! I don't entirely understand what you are implying by suggesting to switch wheels. Do you mean that the truck should be scaled up to allow for more room or do you mean that the current wheels are simply too small? To address the first possible meaning; I am not going to use the 24x43 wheels because I really like this scale, and already have two trucks built at this scale. Besides, I have put waaay too much time into making axles at this scale. Regarding the outriggers, there's no way I'm going to make three stage outriggers, let alone two. Placing the motors inside of the crane may work for your model, but the frame of the effer 2655 is way to skinny to fit any type of motor inside; although, I may be able to fit a motor inside of the asymmetrical portion of the second stage that connects to the first stage to control the 2nd stage extension. (hopefully that made sense ) Thanks! Update 1: The wheel arches for axles 3 and 4 are complete, but need more support from the bottom. I will need to create lengthened wheel arches for axles 2 and 5 as to accommodate for the steering angle. Using sariel's scaler, I created an outline for the crane base. I estimate that the truck will end up being ~85 studs long.

Hello everyone! After completing my TGS 18.400, I’ve decided to dedicate my time towards one sole project instead of trying to work on five separate projects that never get completed. My primary goal in this project is to motorize and remotely control all* major functions. *excluding doors, and possible fly jib List of Powered Functions (via BuWizz and SBricks) 1. Drive 2. Steer 3. Slewing 4. Outrigger extend 5. Pneumatic Pump + Airtank? 6. Servo Valve - Outrigger Down 7. Servo Valve - Crane 1st stage 8. Servo Valve - Crane 2nd stage 9. Servo Valve - Crane 2nd Stage extend 10. Outrigger rotate? This may sound ambitious; however, I do not care about interiors whatsoever, so I will make effective use of the cab-space and oil tank behind the cab. Another goal of this project is to implement full suspension. Axles 1 and 2 will be springless pendular, given the weight of the cab and crane. Axles 3 and 4 may be sprung, although I am undecided on this matter. The fifth and rearmost axle will be sprung with the soft springs. Thus far the most challenging aspect of the build has been to figure out a way to rotate the front set of outriggers (above axle 2) 180 degrees while allowing for extension. I’m not sure if I can do this. (I have an idea for a mechanism, but need to try it out in IRL. Any ideas or advice is greatly appreciated in regard to any aspect of the build. References: http://www.ditzj.de/html/en/trucks/man/41480maurach1.html http://www.effer.com/en/products/2655/ Thank you for reading

Looks great! The bumper and grille area is by far the best part. Did you forget side mirrors?

Thank you very much! Sure, why not. It may take a month or so to add all of the changes that I've made on the real model to the LXF.

Thank you very much! The cannon is fun to control! Soon™*** I just need to figure out which system to use. *** may or may not take up to 2 years to decide .

Hello Everyone, Over the past nine or so months I've been working on this 4x4 firetruck. The project began as a front-axle and grew to a full size project. I chose to replicate** my truck after a vehicle from a volunteer fire department in Austria (Link 1, Link 2). I built the majority of the model on LDD and ordered the parts from bricklink shortly thereafter. When I finished building the cab and mounted it to the chassis, I realized I made a fairly obvious scaling error and spent the next few months redesigning the model. This required widening the truck by 1 stud 18 ->19. I also had to raise the framework and cab by several plates. After two revisions, I am finally pleased with the model and am ready to show it... albeit 3 months late. I must also mention that parts of the cab design were inspired by Marek's MAN TGS 8x4 Tipper. **with the modification of the water cannon. By now you may have noticed that there is no interior. Personally, I don't really care for interiors because I believe they take up space that could be used for exciting functions. Besides that would have added at least another thousand parts as well as a few weeks of building. Another added benefit of this style is that it keeps models lighter, which improves performance. I realize this is not a commonly held opinion, but this is how I like my models. And finally for the mechanical components To the functions 1x Buwizz for power 1x IR receiver 2x XL motor - drive 1x Servo motor - steering 2x L motor - compressor 1x M motor - turret slewing 1x M motor - cannon elevation Video: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152818020@N02/41290132641/in/dateposted-public/ I'd really appreciate feedback.

Sounds good! I apologize if I came of a bit harsh.

Like this: Although, this system would be very difficult to implement at your scale. Here's a picture from a T600 https://d2uhsaoc6ysewq.cloudfront.net/2371/Steering-Gears--Racks-Kenworth-T600-9598870.jpg Personally I would stick with the rack and pinion for simplicity.

Firstly I don't know where you learned that trucks use rack and pinion, but pretty much all trucks use linkage steering (including the T600). Although, one could argue that the Mack's linkage system in the set is unrealistic. Secondly the engine from the Mack set is very realistic. The lego pistons are too large for this scale besides, most trucks use inline 6s or V8s (you are using a boxer type). Using the the same same technical principles does not make your truck a replica. BTW the type of crane on your trailer is called a kuckleboom and the larger models are quite bulky.

Short answer no- The red gear in my picture will be forced downward. The mockup to the left is better. Alternatively you could just use a technic part to hold the gears together as show to in the picture. PS. Do NOT use knob gears for trains- they are terrible

Superb work! I'm most interested in the truck chassis. Did the axles ever bend under the weight of the truck? Did you shred any gears while driving it? Personally, I've found transmissions in lego to be unhelpful for larger vehicles; it's better to just have more motors and a simpler drivetrain. However just getting the whole consist to move is an achievement in itself. In terms of the batteries, I would try out the Buwizz as it makes the world of a difference for heavy vehicles. PS The fake engine contrasts the red very well.

Looks good thus far. My only recommendation is to change the "license plate" to a 2x3 white tile, as it replicates a US plate better.

Great work! Looks like it has pretty good steering lock considering the relatively small wheel arch. Do you know by any chance what the thing in light bluish grey on top of the cab is supposed to be? My best guess is that it props up the catenary wires while the tram is being moved.

Good work! The area around the buffers looks superb!

Excellent work so far! I have a few suggestions; Firstly I would try to incorporate part #48723 on the rear cross thing. If you don't want to use axle connectors you could use pneumatic tubing. Secondly, you can use part #2412 in chrome silver. I really like the red chassis! Just out of curiosity, are you modeling it after a K100 in North America, Australia or New Zealand?

Sorry, but I don't see the difference. Only the cheese slope on top of the bumper.

Unfortunately the only options that I know of are the brick 1x1 round and 2x2 round. I remember going through the same process of trying to find a better alternative for this piece for my models. Unless you want to use a light bar instead, I would just use the heads or the aforementioned alternatives. So what if they aren't perfectly orange; honestly it's even hard to tell that the heads are neon-orange. FYI I rescaled my MAN and created a 5 stud tall bumper that you might be interested in.

Thanks for the review! I just think they should have made the truck as a licensed creator set and made a proper technic truck with a motorized container trailer.