Beck

Fantastic model thus far! I'm kinda wondering if those U-joints might break under the loads that you will be towing. Also, you're missing warning lights on the cab.

Update 7: After much deliberation, I decided to remove all of the universal joints in the drivetrain and steering and opt for 2L axle connectors. In my previous chassis designs I have broken numerous universal joints (even the older variants) while driving outside. Surprisingly, the axles retain all of their travel even though they didn't have much to begin with (+/- 2 plates). I was also quite relieved to have chosen a springless suspension system as the model was already quite heavy even without the crane and rear outriggers. The 5th axle was quite a challenge, but nothing in comparison to the outriggers. The challenge was to achieve a small steering angle without significant backlash. First, I tried to use a linkage mechanism in conjunction with a worm drive, but the backlash affected the entire steering lock. This left rack and pinion as the only remaining option in my mind, but this system necessitated a universal joint. Below is my solution to a rack and pinion steering system without using a universal joint. The entire axle assembly rotates along the axis parallel to the wheel axles, perpendicular to the 12z gear between the the two 9L beams. Having tested the system, I can say that it works perfectly without any backlash or bump steer. Here's the completed frontal outrigger system. \ The next steps are: 1. add further support to the wheel arches 2. design a rear outrigger system 3. design a slewing mechanism

Why don't you find out for yourself? Here's a website with a scale drawing for the prototype and production variant of the aircraft. You can copy the image's URL and use sariel's model scaler to check your proportions. You could start by defining the length [studs] (or whatever dimension you want) and see how the other dimensions compare.

Yeah it's quite an oddity. Here are a few more that come to mind: J7W1 Shinden, Vought XF5, and XP-56

BV 141

I was honestly quite stumped as to why the preferences file could not be found, so I found another route to the file. Right click the application and choose package contents. Then navigate contents > resources > help. Let me know if this works?

I found the preferences file in version 4.3.10 and 4.3.11 of LDD. I'm running Sierra 10.12.6 I would simply reinstall LDD.

Navigate: Library > Application Support > LEGO Company > LEGO Digital Designer. You will see a file called preferences.ini. Open in textedit and add a new line at the top. Write "DeveloperMode=1"

It works for me! (2012 MacBookPro)

1. There's literally a website called the-blueprints.com 2. Manufacturer's website

A couple of years ago, I purchased 42009 and 42043 online for 30-40% off from walmart or target (I can't remember which). These stores usually mark down the price just before lego retires the product. Personally, I wouldn't take a chance with the aforementioned site (https://www.scamadviser.com/is-geeknab.com-a-fake-site.html). Not entirely sure if it's a scam, but there's certainly a chance.

Thanks, I spent much time trying to replicate the bogies as well as I could. Thanks! It does have a tram-like appearance to it.

Thanks very much! I have another Japanese narrow-gauge EMU in The works. Thank you, I had hoped to use a 3 wide narrow-gauge since it more accurately models the 1067 mm track; however I could not design a compatible bogie in time. Perhaps I’ll conert it in the near future.

Hello Everyone, Here’s my Octraintober entry: Enoshima Electric Railway 300 seriesThe Story:The project all started when I knew that I was going on my first much awaited trip to Japan. Naturally, I wanted to build a train that I could take on the trip and take a picture with the real train. Out of the three day-trips that we planned, the excursion with the most enchanting train ride was in Kamakura. The Enoshima Electric Railway 300 series train was by far the most unique train that was still in service on the Enoden line in Kamakura. Five days before leaving on the trip, I completed a rough prototype of the Enoshima train in LDD after quickly ordering the parts. While I waited for the parts to arrive, I began working on the technic chassis in order to verify its rigidity. Once I had completed the first prototype IRL, I realized that the roof was simply too tall, and I was forced to remove the curved portion of the roof to decrease the overall height. Left with only a day until I departed for Japan, I hastily filled in the large gaps. Due to the limited time frame and large crowds, I was unable to get a picture with the real train at Kamakura Station, but got a few shots of the train at Hase Station, which is just three stops away on the Enoden line. In fact, Hase Station is one of the primary tourist sites because it is the stop to visit the Great Buddha of Kamakura, which happens to be the second tallest bronze Buddha statue in Japan. I was able to ride the 300 series Enoshima train for the entire Enoden line roundtrip to enjoy the spectacular scenic coastal ride from Kamakura to Fujisawa. Riding the 300 series Enoshima train was a magical experience. The train was preserved and maintained in its original style, giving me the feeling of travelling back in time. When I returned from the trip, I took about a month off from building as school began. In the middle of October, I was able to build again with a fresh mind. I improved the electrical equipment underneath the main deck of the train, added a step below the driver’s door, improved the bogies, and added more detail to the roof. The Build:Before starting this build, I had a couple of goals in mind:1. Build a rigid frame out of technic 2. Must be powered3. Battery box must be placed as low as possible to improve balance.4. Curved cab ends.5. Recessed doors < 1/2 studI was actually able to accomplish all of these, but was most impressed with the technic frame; I may have to start using this technique in other models. For me, the most difficult part of the entire project was researching and trying to find pictures from various angles of the prototype. I was able to take pictures of my own when I saw the real train, but I was unable to take any pictures from the top of the train, so I just did my best to fill in the details. As a resident of the Pacific Northwest of the United States, I could have simply finished my Swiss TRAXX; however, I felt too comfortable with that model and wanted to try something completely different. Ironically, trains from the East coast of the United States [ex: my PRR B1] feel more foreign to me than the European models that I have been building for years. So, the Enoden train was something completely different for me. The Album [including a video]:www.flickr.com/photos/152818020@N02/albums/72157701691458791PS:During my trip, I was also able to Visit the Kyoto Railway Museum, which I highly recommend for anyone due to the variety of trains and railway equipment. References:ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/江ノ島鎌倉観光300形電車www.youtube.com/watch?v=JxbLokQ20MYwww.youtube.com/watch?v=NouOvAZi--Iwww.ambassadors-japan.com/en/railtrip/355/www.google.com/search?q=%E6%B1%9F%E3%83%8E%E5%B3%B6%E9%8E... Thanks!

How about a platform truck? http://sollevare.it/la-p550-amplia-la-gamma-jumbo-nx-di-palfinger-platform/

Wow! Fantastic progress! I really like your front suspension, simple and robust. Am I correct in saying the truck will have a brick built cab with a technic towing body? Also, I must know where you obtained those metal universal joints, as they would be immensely useful for the truck I am currently building.

Update 6: Finally, some actual progress! Before building the cab I had to fit the air tank and compressor in a 3 stud wide gap between the chassis and respective wheel arch while ensuring that they did not interfere with the "suspension" and servomotors. I also began work on the outriggers and connected the [pneumatic cylinder] rotation mechanism to a single axle. I also tested the 10l gear rack design for the front axle; however, the links between the wheel hubs and gear rack were quite weak.

@I_Igor Unusual idea, but I would use a 16z gear w/o crossaxle to connect the driveshaft to the differential through the axle above the diff.

Very nice models! I saw a pf wire connected to the dragline excavator while unloading. Is this connected to the power source for unloading? Also, why did you choose a US style trailer for this combo?

Although I do not know exactly how this will look, I'm getting a feeling that this will look kinda weird. I would however fill the gaps between the white panels above the slew ring and the the rear of the crane.

@brickless_kiwi Thanks for the ideas. I specifically designed the axles with gear reduction to lessen the stress on the UV joins (I have broken soooo many). I actually tried a design like yours three years ago just after coming out of a mini-dark age. The major flaw associated with that design is it's nearly impossible to connect the drive and steering without interfering with each other or using a linkage steering system (I've tried it and don't like it). I appreciate your ideas! @Ludo Visser I will look into it. Update 5: Looks like the rack doesn't need much range to achieve maximum lock. (+/- 1 stud)

Interesting idea. Here's what I came up with: Problem: I need the gearrack to be held up, but 1 plate wont work. Besides, my steering mechanism is off-centered because of the driveline, so I wouldn't be able to achieve full right steering lock. It's a neat idea, but unfeasible. I'm going to stick with the bevel gear and washer.

Good idea, but with the 1x1 round tile will protrude too much from the face of the wheel. The brown axles are acceptable.

Thanks! I'm not quite sure what you mean by SSD or double bevel gear. I am very well aware that the bevel gear is not ideal, but it's pretty much the only option in this setup. Thank you very much! In a way they are similar to Dirk's crane, in that they are mechanically extended and pneumatically raised. The key difference being that my outriggers are mounted on a non-specialized carrier, an 10x8 truck, so the outriggers rotate along the axis parallel to the length of the outrigger. You can see the mechanism and explanation on the last photo of Update #3. Already thought of that, only I forgot to include that in the model IRL. Since the halfbeams in front of the 5x7 frame are attached by 1(1/2) pins I was going to cut 3mm tubing to connect the 3L halfbeam to the 1(1/2)pins. I would still need the metal washer for this gap: Yep, I understand. I even considered painting the cap black.

Update 4: I completed the axles and part of the chassis IRL about a month and a half ago. In the mean time I bricklinked the various types of specialty parts required for the cab, outriggers, and crane. I'm especially pleased with the mudguards. You may see that I used the 20 tooth bevel gear on the front axle, but this is because the front steering rack's range movement would be hindered by the regular 20 tooth gear. I will probably add a metal washer on the back of the 20 tooth bevel gear to reduce the likelihood that the gear will bend under high load. Here's a closeup: In LDD, I have reinforced the front outriggers and attached the front cover plate and incorporated the pneumatic pumps. Finally, I have begun work on an outrigger design. It's significantly bulkier than the real crane, but this is lego and I want the model to be 100% remote controlled. Any comments, questions, or concerns are much appreciated. Thanks, Beck