Tommy Styrvoky

yes, they sometimes get stuck, but that has happened twice since building the model.

Lego Mad Max Fury Road ELVIS (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Following the making of the Peacemaker from the movie Mad Max Fury Road, I wanted to build ELVIS, a 32' Ford with 2 V6 GMC engines. This model is powered by 2 L motors and utilizes a Servo motor for steering. It is powered by a Lego rechargeable battery. This model was somewhat difficult for me to build, it features a 2 V6 engines, or a V12, 4 bar suspension on the front and rear axles. The most difficult part is that I have a very limited supply of red brown bricks(>500) most of these parts came from the Star Wars MTT set released a few years ago. So this limited me to what shape and structure I could do with the pieces at hand. I attempted to replicate the rust/chipping paint of the vehicle seen in the movie, by altering the colors of the roof, as that is visible from a couple screenshots of the movie. Another challenge was the dropped axle in the front, It was difficult to mount suspension and steering in a compact space, without raising the height of the front too much. Thanks to Sariel for providing Background images for this model, from the game. More like those will be coming soon (during next week). The real vehicle Mad Max Fury Road Elvis schematic by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Mad Max Fury Road ELVIS (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Mad Max Fury Road ELVIS (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Mad Max Fury Road ELVIS (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Mad Max Fury Road ELVIS (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Mad Max Fury Road ELVIS (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Mad Max Fury Road ELVIS (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Mad Max Fury Road ELVIS (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Mad Max Fury Road ELVIS (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Mad Max Fury Road ELVIS (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

Here's a couple, i'm still looking for a front view. Also what variant, that would help too. I think I could make these photos into a blueprint, that would have minor distortion. http://www.primeportal.net/tanks/steve_barrow/rooikat/

I think a christie style or torsion bar suspension with sway bars would perform better than the current design, because those are both designed for high speed tracked vehicles. The current suspension design you are using exerts force vertically, but it applies a lot of horizontal force to the axles, thus causing lots of friction. The sway bars for the torsion bars and christie style suspension will eliminate the horizontal force and friction being applied to the current design, though there are some minor issues, it will be easier for the suspension to function going forwards, because of the direction of the sway bars. Though the Germans designed a interesting means of allowing it to function well in both directions, by having one side of sway bars facing backwards on the left side and the right side facing forwards. The T-18, and T-28 use a similar system for the suspension mentioned in your video, it uses wheels in pairs on bogies though. Christie suspension Torsion bar If you're looking for a suspension type that works well in both directions look at VVSS or HVSS VVSS (vertical volute spring suspension) HVSS( Horizontal volute spring suspension)

This will show you the parts of the model here on the lower portion of the page. http://www.rebrickab...model-team-1996 or this image for the contents.

Looks great for the first time, maybe put this up on Rebrickable for others to see. http://www.eurobrick...2 This is a good guide for working with Lpub, I started using Lpub3D, as for some odd reason I am having issues with rendering in Ldview on the Mac side of my computer. The process of making instructions can be a very long, depending on the size of the model. I usually build my model first with a couple steps, copy it into a new model and remove the steps, then go through the long process of how I would build it in real life. The nice thing with Ldraw models is there can be some really nice renders made after the model is complete. It can take several days/weeks depending on the model's size, for my Jagdpanzer 38t, it had 1300+ parts ( I spent the time to model every track though.... that was a real pain to do.) It took about 12+ hours during a couple weeks when I had free time at school.) Also no PDF instructions for that yet, so maybe another 4+ hours for that process. For my most recent model with instructions my Technic driving ring shooting mechanism 2.0 took about 4 hours to model 200 parts.... I had to do that twice, as I acidently deleted the first file. Then to make the instructions, took about 2 more hours for PDF format, with 70 steps.

What is it with Americans and Technic ? I have only met two other builders that I know locally, one of them has an interest in NXT and regular MOCs, the other Bionicle. Is it too complex/time involving for them? As I love the mechanical aspects of the technic line, but like the different techniques for shaping available with the regular studded system. It could be a lack of interest in STEM concepts? This is my perspective from Minnesota, it may differ in other states.

I have built a AMX 13 75, and encountered the same issues. So I limited the traverse of the turret to be only 270°. I also ended up putting all of the motors for it inside the hull, because of the limited space in the turret. I utilized a mini linear actuator to adjust the elevation of the oscillating turret. The turret will have to be scaled up, as you are going to run out of space. I had a case with my AMX, that the wiring was packed so tight with the mechanisms, that a couple of the wires insulation got chewed on by the gears. An AMX with a 105 is a SPG , so why does It need a Turret ? Unless it's some odd historically inaccurate case with WoT models, as I know the 90mm and 75mm variants exist. Lego AMX 13 75 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego AMX 13 75 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego AMX 13 75 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego AMX 13 75 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego AMX 13 75 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

It's no problem, I can wait. I was interested with the digital parts. I hope it's worth the wait.

Yup same here, maybe every 20 minutes I check, if there's something great happening, especially with the recent topics of the newer sets, such as the Porsche.

It seems common for other builders to help others out, and that's a great thing about the members of Eurobricks. So what is this project you are working on?

I have used some of the Plastruct polystyrene products for scratch building with 1/35th models. I have some 1/8th in tubing and rod. It seems about as rigid as lego products, they are somewhat flexible out of the packaging, like lego axles. They also have ABS stuff on the site and other plastics too.http://plastruct.com...ubing-fittings/ You also may want to take a look at Evergreen's products, they have a wide range of different Polystyrene products that are similar to Plastruct. I think it's cheaper than the Plastruct stuff, as I recall buying more of their products at the model store because of lower price. http://www.evergreen....com/Shapes.htm

I had that thought a while back for doing something like this in minifigure scale, the Tiger would be the drive system, then there would be U-joints linking to the other two Sd kfz. 9's for the tracks, and then steering in the second and first with the usage of linkages connecting the two together. I think it's a cool concept that could be applied to many different vehicles.

I think this could be made at a smaller scale, the central drum or whatever that is mixer for rock crusher or part of smeltery equipment? That could be used to house PF parts, and the rest of the trucks could be made at a scale such as 1/32 (minifugure scale) or smaller. The first truck could house a Servo motor, and the back trucks could both house L motors for drive.

Nice job, it's interesting to see setups for moving massive objects. How is the I beam attached to the 5th wheel and rear bogie, as could It shift around? Here's maybe some inspiration something for a larger scale in the future.

Not exactly a quad track, but it uses a similar concept for the rear axles. Lego Prowler (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

Interesting means of mounting the RC motor. I saw some interesting Gassers at Back to the 50's a couple years ago, I thought this one was rather interesting.

Oh well if the suspension of the model isn't perfect, it seems like everyone is expecting this to be some entirely redesigned Lego supercar with proper suspension geometry and (caster angle, kingpin inclination, ect.), and some new amazing function that someone hasn't designed yet or a perfect rendition of the Porsche. The main issue I see with that is the addition of extra unnecessary parts for a model that most AFOLs will use as a display model. The nice part about this is that we as a community can fix all of these flaws of a somewhat refined model and make a "ultimate version", or a life-like model of this car that replicates the functionality of the real Porsche. I think this model will be acceptable by most of the lego community, but I think we are expecting too much for a model. Though we can fix these issues on a already decent model. Also I changed the part setup for that unidentified part in the back that was speculated as a motor. I think this is the correct setup now. Untitled by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr I feel based on the speculation in this topic that we have discovered a majority of the internal components and functions of the model.

Great little vehicle, all it needs is a wheelie bar and the front tires from the tumbler.

16:10 5:6 4:4 3:3 17:2 9:1

I had some thoughts about building a Light runner or out runner, after recently playing some more Borderlands. I suggest moving the pivot point of the front wheel suspension further back, and maybe something with towball links could be supplemented to replace the U-joints and CV joint. Or another solution would be to mount 2 servo motors on either steering arm, and control the turntables with those.

I think It would be a better idea to have panel kits that replace the existing body work of the model, kind of like the Ferrari 430 Challenge.

Great job, I like the operation of the doors. Do the paddles on the steering column function?

I think Bluetooth is unlikely, but if there was a system like the EV3 where there is the option to use a remote and a device, then It would work. Also not everyone has a device that works with the latest applications. It would be disappointing for children to get their new lego model and not be able to control it without stealing their mother/father's phone. Standard RC equipment would be much better suited for this application. I will be getting a Sbrick soon, so I can mess around with bluetooth in my models.

The only case I have had with something like this is that a single M motor went bad and stopped working, I took it apart and checked the connections, and attempted to shorten the wire to see if that was the cause, But I think the motor just went bad.