Tommy Styrvoky

Churchills ? I know the US military uses the M60 chassis for their modern AVLB.

Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr The Churchill AVLB (armored vehicle-launched bridge) has been one of my projects that I have wanted to see operational in Lego form. It is a rather unusual vehicle, as it's task is simple, no bridge, no problem, it brings a mobile bridge to where bombed out bridges are. There are many different bridge layers built in lego, though most rely on having power being routed to the bridge to unfold it. I wanted to replicate the original mechanics of the real vehicle because the vehicle utilizes a single large hydraulic cylinder to move the bridge into position. This cylinder is retracted for one full stroke to transfer the bridge, from the vehicle to at 90°, and then locks a lower carriage, and the cylinder extends for a full stroke. This mechanism is rather simple, but with the Lego system, this was a difficult challenge to solve. Lego's current array of pneumatics and linear actuators are too small and weak for this task, as I attempted to build this vehicle two years ago, but abandoned it, because two linear actuators weren't powerful enough to lift it. A custom brick-built linear actuator was utilized with a rack and pinion, powered by a L motor with a 1:24 reduction. This provided sufficient power to lift the ≈1kg bridge, though because of the length of the arm, the mechanism has to lift ≈9 kg. This required a robust design for the actuator, and it had to be rigidly connected to the hull. I am very pleased with the results of this model, and it performs great, and looks much better than my old Churchill VII. This is because I changed the spacing between the road wheels to 2.5 studs, instead of 3.This was the biggest issue with my old Churchill, I wanted to build another churchill, but build a different variant. I originally wanted to build a AVRE (armored vehicle royal engineers) with the spigot mortar, and small box girder bridge, thought that variant was too similar to the Churchill VII. I had thoughts of building the model at the same scale as Sariel's Churchill, as it would be a fun, compact build that could use linear actuators for the hydraulics. Though a larger scale version would be more of a challenge, and be more impressive, as the model can lift a 73 stud long bridge. This vehicle is based off of the hull of the Churchill IV, it has some minor external differences, the most noticeable is the crew hatches on the sponsons are square. One of the minor issues is that the tank is unable to cross the bridge, but that isn't a flaw with my model, it's just a lack of traction in Lego's tracks, maybe the rubber pads from the nexo nights would work, though It's inaccurate for most vehicles, as few vehicles had rubber tracks at the time, and it makes the tracks too bulky/expensive. This model may be my last model in light blueish gray, as I recently aquired a large purchase of DBG parts from Bricklink for future models, also this model used almost all of my light bluish gray tiles and 1x plates, for the bridge and sponson details. The old abandoned version from 2014 Lego Churchill Bridgelayer 1/15 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill Bridgelayer 1/15 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr lego churchill Bridgelayer 1/15 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Yes the bridge is strong enough to hold a variety of Allied armor. Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr My next MOC to present, though college has arrived, and I have a lot of editing to do for that model. I have to figure out how to get unofficial ldraw parts into my parts library, as I want to do some renders of the internals, and make instructions... it's packed inside with stuff.

Great review, any what gears are/aren't compatible with the new gear quadrants?

I mean possibly a new dual motor setup with IR reciever and built in battery compartment, basically just the drive motors, minus the steering. is the power output to the rear wheels weak too? or is it high rpm and low Ncm.

For the RC tracked racer,what about using a similar setup with the RC track turbo's integrated PF package, that could keep the price low enough for a decent tracked vehicle and introduce new PF elements. That set only costed $39.99. I could see it being possible to build barebones chassis with an extra 350-450 parts.

speaking of torque, how easy is it to disengage the driving rings under high torque, is that a potential issue? Or does the changeover catches keep it in place? I know you showed the operation in the video under stress, but I mean like serious stress for TTs, like all wheels can't slip. or the case for tracked vehicles, where slip isn't possible.

Have you tried using a different browser, or is it a site side issue?

Would a L motor work for shifting the driving rings with the ribbed 3L connectors?, and I think it would be possible to improve the profile of it, by rotating the M motor 90 degrees downwards, though it may interfere with the front inputs. I think it would be cool to see a compact dual differential steering system/ transmission package. As I have attempted to mount 2 4-speed gearboxes in parallel( for each track), and they tend to suffer from being too large, or not robust enough, Though I am most worried about 12z gears failing in the differentials of the adder/subtractor under high load.

Great moc showing the concept of a catapult. An aircraft carrier has lots of cool functions, you could also replicate the plane lifts, the whole carrier could be built at a much smaller scale, and possibly launch paper planes. Here's a good example, with compact lifts. http://www.moc-pages.com/moc.php/366353 I think you could easily fit more functions into it at 1/300-1/250th scale. I think the catapult winch mechanism could be automated, by having a linkage that disengages the winch when the sled is drawn back, there would have to be another linkage connected to the changeover catch that resets the winch.

well it's all in DBG... here's the only spoiler I will give so far. this is the engine it uses.Engine by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

Just spent roughly $400 for 2k parts on BL orders, feeling a combination of excitement, and guilt for my obsession hobby. ...DBG 2l pin connectors are expensive if needed in large quantity it took me several stores just to get 14 of them.

One of the main issues with custom tracks is the price. I think half stud cleats would look better and function the same. Maybe use this as a base for a snow groomer's chassis and use larger grousers.

All those SW sets getting to my head... I am expanding I have plans for another model that will use another shade of gray. Part of my limitations are because of the small collection I have. I am limited to building in black, LBG, and red. Maybe someday I will get some tan, red-brown and dark green, so I can build vehicles with realistic camouflage schemes. Though hopefully after I purchase a rather large amount of DBG parts in the later half of this month, I can retire most of those parts for SW vehicles, except for models requiring the 6x6 inverted radar dishes in DBG, as you own most of them with your Tiger I

I think it would have been better to do the trim accent in the center of the hood as a sticker. I bet it would be possible to replace all of the Dark Azure and replace it with LBG. Then it would be much easier to mod into something like this.

I understand the potential issues with motivation, I used to have a quota of roughly 1 moc per month, and this summer, I expected to build around 5 models, though so far I have built two, and am working on one now, and designing one in LDD, so I can order parts. With summer's end nearing in the next month, I abandoned most of the planned models and focused on the ones that I thought were the most important to me. Partially I feel, pushed by Youtube subscribers to please them, by building models they want, though It is discouraging, as it's Impossible to build what everyone wants, so I ignore most of the suggestions. ( I think it would be interesting to hear from someone else with a large YT channel, as this has to be interesting to deal with, as you want to please the majority, as it will increase popularity... It would be interesting to hear Sariel's view on this, as he is one of the largest Technic channels.) With my current WIP I am working on, It isn't rather complex in terms of the mechanisms, though the space limitations, and mechanical functionality has to be robust. Progress has been rather slow over the last month and now I am reaching a point where It gets very difficult because of space constraints. Though I have gotten farther with the current progress, then the last time I attempted this model, as I abandoned it previously. I would say now that I have my second year of college coming, I really appreciate the free time I had when I was in high school. For tips I would suggest maybe work on something else, and come back to the WIP later, but I am very aware of the limited inventories that people have, so that isn't always an option. Another choice would be to do more research on the model, and find inspiration to continue it. Sometimes I find I get too lost just building the model, and forget the reason why they wanted to build it in the first place. Don't get discouraged when you reach a place where It becomes technically difficult. Just step back from the problem, and try reproaching it. Just remember, if it gets to a place where it's too hard, just take a break to think about it more, and it's only a matter of time and money to solve it. I guess one of the driving forces for me is that if you have most of your PF parts tied up in a WIP, It either drives you to complete it, or scrap it.

I really wanna get my hands on 8 of those tires, though they will cost a lot on BL. maybe more sets will use them along with the Porsche tires.

I think the tread will have issues because of how it overlaps the edge,that will limit the type of suspension you can use. Also maybe change the tread profile for better grip. Maybe try using Ninjaflex as a rubber material.

Imagines Jim playing beer pong with lego pieces ... or better yet, invite your friends over to help you "sort" your Lego pieces

Cool to see in motion,and a great replica of the functionality. I have been to the Newport News Mariners Museum, and have seen the actual engine and turret from the monitor in tanks to stabilize it from rusting out. There's also a full scale model of the Monitor there. There's a lot of cool models of the engine's operation, directional control, and the turret traversing gear there. It would be cool to make a large scale model of the entire vessel's mechanical operations, as nearly everything utilized the steam power to operate it. I think it would be possible to build a smaller scale model of this engine, as a full scale model based around this would be massive. here's footage of the engine model (it's not mine)

Here's another track of the small variant with a simple design, though commonly found on modern vehicles. Here are the .123dx files for both the large and small ones, as you use the same program, it would be easier to modify the pads/track. Small Track Large Track Lego small track with rubber pad by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego small track with rubber pad by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

Amazing job, it performs great. Interesting and simple mechanism for transferring between normal and crab steering.

I modeled up a basic track in Autodesk 123D design, based on the real specifications for lego sprockets. I think I got the tolerances correct between the track pin, and clip. I measured differences between the two with a digital caliper, and found differences of approximately .15mm between parts for movement. This model could be modified for any type of design, but I have yet to test it, as I lack a 3D printer.... though I will get one sometime. My guess is that some parts may have to be tweaked to work( I think I made the distance between the track pin and connector too small ) , as the tolerances may be too high for a desktop printer, and It probably need more reinforcement in some areas. File:https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2H134SK3lSSd2l0MjI2a1BoY1U/view?usp=sharing T84E1 like Track model for Lego sprockets by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr T84E1 like Track model for Lego sprockets by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr T84E1 like Track model for Lego sprockets by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

This makes me tempted to design some different tracks for the current sprockets, maybe with a dual extruder, you could have the rubber tracks for your stair climber.

It looks useful for smaller applications, but I don't exactly like that it's limited to 4 outputs, is there any mention about the application supporting multiple controllers? Any idea how many volts it pushes out in the x2 mode, as that could be detrimental to lego motors over a long time period. Is there any difference in the response time between the phone, and it. How does it compare to the Sbrick in terms of response delay? I guess if the battery fails, you can just connect a portable power source, like for charging phones. What next, with all of the competition, I bet Lego will undoubtedly make their own version of a controller.

I thought about it, but couldn't find a good way to make it work and not be too cumbersome for the model. Also the way the first torsion bar is mounted made it difficult to affix anything to the hull floor. If you look closely at the point where the glacis and the hull floor meet, you can see a torsion bar that is overhanging by 1/2 a stud. If only lego made a 1x3 technic brick with 2 holes, As I couldn't use a full 1x4 technic brick there. It's best shown in this photo Lego M18 Hellcat Tank Destroyer (Sbrick by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr