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Tommy Styrvoky

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Everything posted by Tommy Styrvoky

  1. Tommy Styrvoky
    Problem solved, I rebuilt the file, and improved some aspects of it. There is a small issue with it, there's a 1 LDU space between part of the back half of the model. Now to make the instructions. The LDR model is in the steps, there's 70 steps and 207 parts, a model download is available here, LPUB PDF instructions to come. Rebuilt and ready for LPub by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
  2. Tommy Styrvoky
    I have had models break and bend parts before, I want to make sure that I have a durable piece if I am going to spend $10 on it, and also what plastic would you suggest, i'm thinking black. If you could fill the piece like the lego sprockets. I just want to make sure it can handle some serious stress. Thanks!
  3. Tommy Styrvoky
    I have some of the older red and white bricks from my father's pieces as a kid, they aren't anywhere nearly as fragile as that.
  4. Tommy Styrvoky
    How durable will it be with only the 4 attachment points on the outer ring? I fear something will break under strain.
  5. Tommy Styrvoky
    Thanks for doing this, I like that it's 1 stud wide.
  6. Tommy Styrvoky
    yeah... Even when i looked for the file in the trial programs, i couldn't find it, this means it was probably overwritten... Oh well. It will be easier to replicate this time.
  7. Tommy Styrvoky
    I haven't set one up yet, and I don't think I have the space to keep all of my old files.
  8. Tommy Styrvoky
    If you could sandwich the 8z gears on the side that is connected to the shoulder, and prevent them from splaying apart, that would fix it, and since the whole leg doesn't rotate that much I think if you extended the axles on the doubled up worm gears, and added a extra 2 studs(to the 4 stud long axles with stops), that would leave room for some half bushes, then a 3 stud long technic beam and another 2 half bushes to secure the beam. Or a 5.5 stud long axe could be used, if the side with the stop was on the shoulder side, It would replace the first set of half bushes, and a the beam could be mounted on the back of the stops.....This whole mechanism doesn't work, even if you were to reverse the turntable, the gears are fixed to the leg, thus when the leg moves, the gears angle change with it, thus disengaging the gears from the turntable. In order to make this type of mechanism to work, the worm gear has to be on the same side as the gears are anchored to, otherwise the gears that mesh with the worm gear will move with the leg.... and nothing will happen, as the gears will run into the axles for the worm gear.
  9. Tommy Styrvoky
    You don't need to make all of them, but a 7 stud wide sprocket would be the most useful on other larger models. If it follows the same pattern of the other sprockets, it would have 10 teeth. I think the 4 and 6 stud sprockets would have a weird set of teeth, as I don't think it would be a whole number, though they would be cool to have as options.Also i'm refering to sprockets for the newer wider track, not gears for the older 3 stud wide track
  10. Tommy Styrvoky
    Could you eventually work on a 4 stud, 6 stud,and 7 stud wide sprockets, as It's difficult to work with just 5 and 3 stud wide sprockets, It would be nice to have different choices, as on some of my models the sprockets are too small or too big
  11. Tommy Styrvoky
    If you look at my design, the 8z gear is supported on both sides of the worm gear, thus it can't skip teeth, because it can't move upwards, with no external support on both sides of the gears, they will likely skip teeth. Even more in this case, as only one side is anchored, and the gear is floating on a axle 2 studs outwards, this gives the gear more leverage/travel, thus increasing the possibility of the gear to travel upwards, as everything else is supported, that will be the weakest part of the mechanism, thus likely to fail. I had a case with something similar on the turntable for my latest moc, I thought everything was supported and anchored as close to the gears, but It still managed to make a worm gear skip from on a turntable. I had to re-design the entire structure to make sure every part was fixed with a solid connection to the gears as possible.This image shows where a worm gear exerts force when operating, the Fs force will be where it will fail.
  12. Tommy Styrvoky
    My best guess is the worm gear will fail in the fashion, as there are unsupported 8z gears, If both sides of the 8z gears are not fixed in place, the axle will bend upwards and loose purchase wit the worm gear under high strain.
  13. Tommy Styrvoky
    I thought about a similar setup, but I was unsure of how strong it will be, I would suggest against the newer worm gear, as the same function could be accomplished by the old one. It would have more teeth to mesh with the 8z gear. If you were to insert a 2 stud long axle in the end, it would be nearly impossible to remove the worm gear I also think the worm gear may break.
  14. Tommy Styrvoky
    It's a mac... I tried a couple restoring tools,(they cost money, so I used trials) but I think it has been overwritten. When I build my models, I don't use steps the first time, I copy and paste the models pieces in the order I want to create instructions for lpub.
  15. Tommy Styrvoky
    Well I made a small mistake yesterday.... I deleted all the files in my downloads folder, and I had saved the shooting mechanism's .ldr file in that folder. Well at least I still have the Blender model of it to work with this weekend. Time to re-model 200+ pieces. Maybe this time I will make the steps correctly. Grrr...
  16. Tommy Styrvoky
    Ok here's my second option, the worm gear seems to be reinforced pretty well, though I hope the technic 4x0.5 liftarms won't break, but that shouldn't happen, To fix that issue, I would suggest putting another technic brick to sandwich the worm gear and 8z gear. Turning the red bush will change the angle of the leg, I decided to keep this mechanism as simple as possible to eliminate lash between the gears to allow for fine adjustment, though there is some lash between the 8z gear and worm gear it should work fine. I have used a similar system like this to tension the tracks on some of my models, and it is durable and simple. AT-AT leg/hip joint by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr AT-AT leg/hip joint by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr AT-AT leg/hip joint by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
  17. Tommy Styrvoky
    it's a option, but it's likely to fail... then the whole model comes falling down.
  18. Tommy Styrvoky
    here's a thought have another 8z gear come from the inside of the turntable connect to a axle and have another 8z gear mesh with a wormgear. I can mock it up later.
  19. Tommy Styrvoky
    the simplest solution for a worm gear would be to mount it on the outside of the turntable, I think a newer 28z smaller turntable would work for that, as it's less bulky. Though to split a turntable it's a rather easy process, it can be done by inserting pins into the ends with beams to use a leverage and pry the two apart, or use a dull butter knife and slip it between the two parts of the turntable and pry around it gently or I think you can buy them as seperate parts on bricklink. I can take a look at a worm gear system later tonight. The problem with the ratchet is that it turns only one way, unless you have 2 pawls locking motion of the gear.
  20. Tommy Styrvoky
    it's impossible to slide the 24z out of the center of the turntable without splitting it, as i have done this in real life.
  21. Tommy Styrvoky
    I wonder if there's any other part that could be substituted to give a angle of 45°or less.
  22. Tommy Styrvoky
    Ok here's my solution, the long technic friction pins can have the stop on the side with the turntable. The gray beam is what will attach to the hip/ upper body.( I think it's best to tie it into the body, so the legs are anchored and can't twist from side to side.) The wedge belt wheels can be removed, then the leg can be positioned and the wedge belt wheels can be replaced. This gives 3 possible positions for the (30°,90°,and 150°) I think the usage of a ratchet with a pawl would make the hip linkages too thick, because that would have to be supported on both sides of the ratchet, making it at least 3 studs wide. I also think that has a high chance of damaging pieces/ it could move on accident. A worm gear would be a better option , as it can't move if encased correctly. AT-AT leg/hip joint by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr AT-AT leg/hip joint by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
  23. Tommy Styrvoky
    That's a good thougt, i can mock something up tomorrow in ldraw to illustrate it better.
  24. Tommy Styrvoky
    yeah, you would only have to move the wedge belt wheel around.
  25. Tommy Styrvoky
    What about using the 24z gear in the turntable and connecting a axle from it into a wedge belt wheel anchored into the "hip" of the leg. That would give a few different angles of motion.
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