Tommy Styrvoky

911 paddleshift 3 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

I found a solution. Could someone test this to see if it works correctly in real bricks? I may do a short animation of it if it is correct. ldr file http://www.bricksafe... mechanism4.ldr It also makes sense that there is a centeral knob gear, as if you look at the 2L orange liftarms aren't at 90°. 911 paddleshift 2 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

I think I may have figured out how the knob gears work with it, they move along to toggle the selector to the gearbox. 911 paddleshift by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

It's interesting if you look at the orange selector arm on the paddle shifter.

Porsche_Paddles by tripletschiee, on Flickr There's more to the back of the gearbox, maybe it's time to start experimenting with that again in Ldraw.

I changed the name, it should be fixed now.

Here it is a backup if the FB video goes down. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2H134SK3lSSeF9rZVpOWjFpQzA/view?usp=sharing

Has anyone attempted to download the video and re-upload it to a different site, such as google drive for others to download?

I saw this today on a techinc Facebook group, looks like we were right about a lot of it.

I was thinking attach the gyro to the turret, another solution is to have two seperate carriages, the gun is attached to the carriage, and is elevated by a pf motor, then the main carriage is just mimicking the motion of the gyro mounted in the turret. Here's a image of a concept I worked with, by using a battery box to mimic motion with a servo. I think ideally a 3rd party solution would be better in this case, such as an arduino with a gyroscope and a couple pins going to a motor. lego vertical stabilizer concept by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

Would it be possible with the EV3 to create a program for if a change is detected with the gyroscope, then it adds/subtracts the detected difference to the current position of the motor. Is there a way to set a max/min degrees for the motor, so it would prevent it from overrunning it ? Then have a statement that would disable the gyroscope when user input is applied, and re-enable it when it is finished.

It looks beautiful in real life, I hope the rest of the legs work out well.

I think to get the regular 24z gears in the turntable you will have to split both haves, I found a butter knife to work well with that. So I think once it's put together, it will be a pain to change, but it allows for posing of all joints, It would be cool to have one of the legs lifted in the air and support it from below with clear bricks, as if it's walking.

Rebrickable page is up http://www.rebrickable.com/mocs/TommyStyrvoky/renault-ft-17

Thanks, I'm still very inexperienced with lpub, I knew there was a way to change the size of parts, but I didn't know how. I think in my next model I want to experiment with using submodels more often, and having callouts. I had issues trying to install Lsynth to mlcad, as I couldn't find the mlcad.ini in the proper directory I tried reinstalling Mlcad, but had no luck.

A couple years ago I built a Renault FT-17 for the Model Team contest. During the contest I created my first Ldraw model, this model was rather flawed, as lots of parts were misaligned, and lots of duplicate parts were present. I had received lots of feedback from people asking if a LDD or PDF format instructions were available, as it is becoming one of my most popular videos. At the time I had little experience with Lpub, so I didn't know where to begin with the PDF instructions. Earlier this month I received others having more interest in obtaining PDF instructions. So I began the process of fixing the model, there were lots of flaws with misalignments, duplicate parts, and even areas that hadn't been updated to represent the final version of the model. Since I am at college I began to work on the model, and convert it into further logical steps to rebuild the model. This process involved disassembling the model and ordering the steps backwards. I then decided to import the model into Blender and create a short animation to showcase all of the functions. This animation allows me to show all of the detailed internals with better lighting than I could in real life, though to render this 39 second animation it took around 60 hours. If only OpenCL rendering worked on my Mac... I also decided to make a proper trench for the Renault... in 4K, another 2 hour rendering process. I thoroughly enjoyed building this model in real life, now everyone as the instructions to have one for themselves. Enjoy, Tommy Styrvoky Rebrickable page Lego Renault FT-17 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Renault FT-17 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Renault FT-17 Test Render by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Renault FT-17 Test Render by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr FT-17 internals render by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

Looks good, I was going for a more functional rough version, I see you cleaned up the extra technic holes. I think the middle section between the #2 technic connectors and the other half of the teardrop need more reinforcement, thought It does have the upper and lower plates joining it. This is somewhat ambitious, I know someone on the Technic forum that's trying to make a highly detailed plane that can fly with commercial motors... Though If this model works it will be the ultimate AT-AT.

If the teardrop was 3 studs wide. I think It will hold up fine to vertical forces acting upon it, but under torsional stress it will fail, so don't push the model side to side.

I reworked it, I attempted to keep most of the external structure the same, but I am a little uncertain how the joint between the leg and teardrop will hold up under weight, If there was 3 wide studs of area to work with, it could be made nearly indestructible. I changed the points for affixing the axles to, but I don't know how well they will work. Another thought for solving the issue of affixing axles is to use the old version of the 24z gears, they have 3 axle holes, and they would work to add to extra mounting points for the end of the teardrop part. AT-AT leg/hip joint Reworked by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr AT-AT leg/hip joint Reworked by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr AT-AT leg/hip joint Reworked by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr AT-AT leg/hip joint Reworked by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr AT-AT leg/hip joint Reworked by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr LDD file http://www.bricksafe.com/files/Tommy_styrvoky/AT-AT_Leg_Joint.lxf

Thanks, I see some areas that look very prone to failing, the 1/2 stud attachment points for the 24z gears, will fail under strain, and probably break parts, and the attachment of the second turntable is made entirely out of studded pieces, that will fail too. I will see what I can do to improve it without changing the shape too much.

I think the primary reason why gears aren't used at these angles is because they aren't supported well enough for transfer of high torque.

Would there be a ldd file? then I could show you how to fix one of the issues with the wedge belt wheels.

Looking at the most recent design for the leg, I think There needs to be a vertical beam connecting both the top and bottom of the tear shape, otherwise the turntable will force the two haves apart under weight. and how's the other turntable connected? I think there needs to be some reinforcement beams to maintain structural integrity for it. I also think that the axle connecting the gear to the other half will twist like a screw under the weight of it. I think there needs to be an addition of wedge belt wheels on the inside of the leg, and secured to the turntable by some means.

Yes, you can use either, just be careful to have a means of including a linear cutch or clutch gear. I have used a M motor because of the size in my most recent WIP 6x6, as it drives a worm gear, this allows for the steering angle to remain locked, and not be directly able to interact with the motor, because of the worm gear.

I got it to run on Windows 10 side of my Mac. So it isn't Windows, maybe drivers for the program?