Appie

Do I spy 19L white soft axles in the hood of the 42039? (edit: or never released before 16L?) I like this version of the 42039 too tbh, though I did like the fin in the middle behind the cockpit going to the rear spoiler of the first version.

Really amazing work! I never thought of doing that for a gearbox, cool touch. I know from the WIP topic you spend quite some time on the hood and had multiple setups, but looking at the video of the RC version you posted in this topic I had a question. The angle of the hood near the front window looks pretty sharp with the rest of the hood in this manual version. It looks smoother in the RC version. The construction also seems a little different in the RC version. Is that a last minute edit that you didn't put in the manual pictures yet? Or is it just a slight difference between the 2 versions? I personally like the angle of RC hood more, put this looks good too. :thumbup:

Great car! Awesome looks to go with the awesome speed. We want a video!

Sorry to continue off topic but I'd like to thank everybody for the info about the boxes. I will remember to look at the Aldi. Legolijntje you mean 15L liftarms don't fit in the drawers or good old 16L technic bricks? For the latter I have a spot, but if it is liftarms I might have a problem. Sorry Sato, but Alkmaar is quite a drive from my home, so I will have to pass. Thanks for the offer though Freekysch what is that thing in front of the 8258?

Finally stopped being lazy this week and installed the plexiglass that I wanted to for months. So now my Lego building area looks like this: The cabinets beneath the desk are filled with my old Lego (this includes System and booklets). I want the screws/nails storing box style things on the desk (like more people use) to put all my modern Technic Lego in. Some of Lego's (and 1 of Sheepo's) supercars all nicely put together. The spot left from the Mustang is reserved for my 41999. Which I didn't want to built until I could provide a dust free spot for it The first cupboard, mostly filled with stuff I bought the last year (something with dark ages). From this cupboard only the 8858, the modified B-Model of the 8865 and 8459 are from long ago. I need to clean these oldies. They got alot of dust from the days where I didn't have plexi glass. The 8466 I got cheap a few months ago needs a cleaning too. The second cupboard is a bit more empty (thankfully or I would have a problem for new models ). Quite a few from this cupboard need some cleaning (everything on the second shelf and the 8443). The 8479 buggy will be broken down and cleaned and then I will make the truck from it. The extended version of the 8839 needs a good cleaning too and some non-yellowed white bricks (built it over 20 years ago).

8461 from Marktplaats for 60 euros. Guy wasn't sure if all pieces were there, but all the good parts are present (and not yellowed) like soft axles, panels, springs and the blue cylinders. 80% of the stickers are pretty messed up, but I didn't buy it for that.

Lego could easily fix this by re-releasing some sets. The same happened with videogames who ended up on PSN or Xbox Live. Physical copies of the games on the ancient console they originally appeared on dropped significantly in price after that. Few months ago there were rumours of a millennium falcon UCS re-release for 2015 so perhaps Lego is already on board.

Very cool, nice details, will do really well in the contest I am sure. One thing though, I can't help but wonder where the "steering" is. Looking at the images it seems to be a front axle that can move left or right, not linked to any gear or liftarm? Perhaps I am missing some HoG hidden away in there, but if that is it, that isn't real steering imo.

I wondered why this model didn't get any video time in your ampliroll truck video, now I see it is because it had its own video I like the two-sided control for the fucntions, really speeds up the LA's for manual control. Nice touch with the 4x4 and the pendular axle.

Very cool! Still looks like the original, nice. Love that pump setup. I love looking at that stuff too

I think it is a MOC, since it uses soft axles around the cabin, which weren't put in sets until 1999 and the 8462 is from 1998.

Toss me one of your ideas, because I am drawing a blank still

Looks great! Excellent choice on the colour for the interior, works great with black. 600 euros is alot though, but the chrome and soft axles don't come cheap One minor nitpick compared to Madoca's, best explained with the images provided: Press it down so the rear above the tail lights look more like this? If you did it on purpose, because you like it more that way, ignore this

I don't want to necro that topic to say how awesome that 8x4 truck is, so I say it here But looking at the video in that topic and your explantion about the problems you faced with the boom extention and with this current topic in mind, that boom extention probably would have liked a PF motor (no idea where you'd put it though )

Thanks everybody! I really like the arms as well, especially the hands provide a nice little nod to the original 8852 and they tuck away nicely below the 4x2 liftarms in car mode, making them part of the rear wheel fenders

I actually made this during the Mini contest after being inspired by Barman's version. It's based on Barman's solution for the transformation of the robot, but reduced in size: The reason the 6L axle is running here through the front pulley wheels is to prevent the mechanism from locking up if you apply force to the top of the robot. It takes quite a bit of force to do it, but since this is a toy. I have to keep the children in mind Compared to Barman's Mini: - In car mode the main body of the model is 1 stud lower (4 vs 5) - Main body is 6 studs wide instead of 9 - Main body is 16 studs long instead of 19 (gear for function included at the rear) - Robot is 14 studs tall instead of 18 studs During the contest I already gave Barman a few photos of this robot to see if he liked it. He thought it was pretty cool, but some scales were a little off, a problem he also faced. He suggested I tried to get the "body" of the robot slimmer. So I tried and this was the result: I really like the yellow "lines" I managed on the top of this version of the model: Overall they both work as intended, but each version has a few things I don't like, but as Barman also pointed out to me, you can't have everything you want in a Lego model Things I like about the first version: - While some scales are off with the original 8852 (the width of the "body" of the robot and how far the front wheels move back for robot mode) quite a few are pretty spot on with the original 8852. My goal was 60% of the original. Which I managed (give or take a few %) for the width of the model, the height of the robot in general, the space between the front and rear wheels in "car mode", the size of the head and the robot's body height, the width of the "shoulders". The height of the main frame is 50% (4 studs compared to the original 8 studs, but 5 studs has already been done by Barman ) - It feels more like a modern set and a bit more sturdy than version 2, probably because the robot mechanism has slightly more room to move forward - The big knob for steering. I have big hands the axle connector control works, but is a little flimsy for me. - I like how the outer black 2x4 liftarms on the main frame have a function in this model to hold the half liftarms of the robot's "body" Things I don't like about the first version: - How far the front wheels move backwards. This is something that I (perhaps somebody else may) can't fix with this mechanism. For it to mimic the original 8852 movement I'd propably have to resort to actually using a 24T gear like the original to get the proper gear ratios on the movement. - The width of the "body" of the robot Things I like about version 2: - 3 Stud "body" of the robot - The yellow lines at the top of the model I mentioned at the picture - "Vintage" ( ) Lego Technic solutions (steering plates and connectors at the pulley wheels) used for the mechanism to get the result I wanted. - Actually using the 4th stud of the main frame instead of just using it as space for the pulley wheels and to connect the rear wheels. Things I don't like about the second version: - The head, though I could have probaly tweaked it some more if I gave it more time - While most scales compared to the original 8852 are still pretty spot on I don't really like the shoulders losing a stud, but I can't find an alternative while still using these arms (which are my prefered arms) - The robot mechanism has slightly less movement (1MM forward and back) compared to the first version. The robot can still fully erect, but while lowered the steering mechanism misses it's support that the "body" of the robot provides and touches the front of the robot when you steer. I tried to reverse the pulley wheels and old steering plates with old connectors to give it more room upfront, but it didn't have the desired effect. Propably the old stuff giving it some more wiggle room too compared to modern connectors. - The use of this part is not completely how it is supposed to be. The problem is the friction ridges on this. Now I don't want to start a rant how Lego is breaking ancient Lego Technic laws of grey being frictionless and black having friction, especially since this part exists in both colours and I serioulsy don't see a reason which models would care if this part was black or grey. Rather I want to rant about the fact that this part isn't the same for every part of this type in grey that I encounter. Even in the same set I can have some which on one side of the part have the outer half of the pin being frictionless and the inner half having friction and vice versa. Or the entire pin has no friction while the other side of the part only has half of the pin frictionless. The same goes for this part. So my model used 1 that has no friction on the inner halves of the pins on this part. Funny enough this was the first pin I grabbed from my 42006 box (then thinking they all worked like this) and built this version 2 of the 8852 around that. Now while I had some other ideas to use instead of this part, I didn't put them use yet (busy on other stuff). Main thing I face is the dependance of this model in general on the rear pulley wheels. Originally I used these to get the desired 2x2 "half liftarm" going instead of the 3x3 half liftarm from Barman's model. The half stud offset these provide, turned out to be quite essential for this model and are not as easily replaced. The reason why this is quite essential for the model is because I have the 8T gears on the same part of the wormgear. Put one a stud back you say? Kind of ruins the the goal of this model (being smaller) since that would mean having to move the pulley wheels one stud back or the body of the robot 1 stud back, the latter I don't want for looks and the first I would probably have to make the main frame a stud wider for the rear wheels or lose some structural integrity (which I never like). After building the second version after Barman's suggestion (version 2 is also a few weeks old) I rebuild the original version I made. Mainly because I don't like the use of this part, but also because the first model felt more like a model Lego could release now. I do want to know which version you guys like more though (I don't know how to add a poll) or if you have suggestions to get the "body" to 3 studs while keeping the rest of the model the same in terms of size, because I do like that 3 stud robot "body" Thanks for reading and a big thanks to Barman and his awesome model which inspired this one

I think the Unimog has a nice balance of motor use, for pneumatic and mechanical purposes and it also has some manual features, but some sets seem very heavy on PF yeah. Greatest example of that would be the 42030, which basically follows in 9398's footsteps as the new remote control Lego car. I don't mind it personally. If I did I could just de-PF it like you did. Sometimes Lego even provides it like the 8043 and 42006 or backwards with the 8265 and 42030 . Some sets or MOCs I really like more for having PF though. While the PF on the 42030 is pretty simple in its execution (very direct) I like it more than the 8265, mainly because LA's need a motor imo. Greatest example of something I would absolutely hate without PF is the gearbox in Sheepo's Mustang. I really like that servo driven sequential gearbox and while Sheepo also made a manual model for the Mustang it just isn't the same with a manual 5+R and handbrake gearbox imo. Seems Lego hears your pleas a little too though. Since they got models that are "PF ready" like the 9396, 42024, 42006 and 42029. Leaving the choice up to the user to PF it or not.

So no maximum on height? (edit: I see W3ird_N3rd had the same idea lol) Considering some of the awesome Model Team builders I have seen around (VFracingteam, 2LegoOrNot2Lego, Bricksonwheels, konajra and Legotrucks to name a few just from Holland) this could be a very interesting contest to watch if they will enter. Not sure if I will enter myself, lack of modern system parts is an obstacle and I don't know if I want to overcome that obstacle for a theme I don't want to built much in, unless I think of something really awesome I suppose

Congratulations winners! This was a very fun contest. Great models from alot of people. Thanks EB and everybody who participated and voted. On to the next contest!

After delaying my votes for days because it was so hard to choose, here they are. I'd also like to thank everybody who voted for my creation 19: 7 21: 4 26: 2 38: 2 40: 3 41: 1 52: 1 I am sorry for not giving some creations points while they do deserve them, like I said, tough choices.

Just finished building this. So the wheel loader from my Mini entry could finally meet his daddy! The model looks massive. I love it. I am still on the fence about the servo. Might try a different approach than LA's to get rid of the jerkyness of the steering.

It's all good It wasn't as much confusing btw, just the resolution was a pity for what some people made in photoshop, gimp (thanks Sariel for that tutorial btw) or whatever program people used.

It was just a suggestion to make it more convenient for people to look at entries in their full glory in the topic that they are voting. Compilation image is nice for quick reference, but like pint14 I think some used it as their only image.

I agree, some people put in a lot of work on their promotional image (mine is 'ok') and the compilation picture doesn't do it justice at all. And like Omikron said, nobody is going to look in 3 places before voting, especially with 50+ entries. I understand that you don't want 50+ images in your voting topic OP, but linking the list of entries to WIP topics would make it easier for people to look.

Here's my version of your cool little jeep (sorry word I am used to, to describe this type of vehicles) Land Cruiser. Besides it being in a completely different colour, I also had to use some different parts in some places, because I simply don't have the parts you used at the moment. Adjustment of the rollbar was on purpose though, I just like that type of rollbar more I still need to make a roof.