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Captainowie

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by Captainowie

  1. Ideas are not your problem. You have been provided with plenty of ideas. There are hundreds of them in this thread alone. But ideas are not what you ask for - you ask for instructions, and that's different. In fact, step-by-step instructions are probably exactly what you *don't* want if you have a limited parts selection. The smaller your collection the more chance there is that any given set of instructions requires a part that you don't have (or refuse to use). Then what do you do? Just ignore those and keep asking for more instructions? That gets very tiresome very quickly. You'll get far better mileage out of trying to figure out how to reproduce some mechanism using the parts you have. I say again, we'll help you do that, but you need to show that you've at least made an effort first. I hope your reflection was on the sentiment, rather than the pain :-) The thing is, people are quite entitled to buy a set, and only build that set. That's fine. But GBC is an area of the hobby that doesn't have any sets (likely for the jiggering/tuning reasons discussed), so all instructions have to come from the community, and only a very small fraction of the community will be willing to devote time into creating instructions for what is a rather niche area. I have no problems at all with using some step-by-step instructions - it's a useful starting platform, but if someone has done half-a-dozen modules already (http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=103497) then I would expect they've learned enough to at least make an attempt at doing something with a little less hand-holding. Compare to another niche technic field - trial trucks. I assume there are some instructions out there for a decent trial truck, but I don't think the trial truck community would react well to someone saying "My truck isn't good enough, I need instructions for a new one". Owen.
  2. You could, but it doesn't make for a very useful comparison metric - especially if you're comparing it to a model that has actual motors. For example, to get twice the power, you double the number of little grey engine blocks, and you add maybe a tenth of a percent of weight. But for a model with motors, if you double the number of PF motors, you increase the weight by maybe 10 percent. (very rough, order-of-magnitude estimations) Owen.
  3. Oh, sorry, that was partly my fault. When I said that "it works fine", I was reproducing the picture you had posted. Reading your post again I see that you meant using the old diff with the new gear. Once again, sorry. Owen.
  4. Here are some GBC instructions: Step 1) Pick a module you'd like to build Step 2) Study all published photos and videos Step 3) Figure out how the mechanisms must work Step 4) Recreate the mechanisms Step 5) Recreate the aesthetics As an added bonus, these instructions work for pretty much any of the wonderful creations you see on this forum (or any other, for that matter)! Somewhat less facetiously, why don't you duplicate one of the modules you already have, and then change it a bit? Maybe convert something that uses small tread links into something that uses the larger newer ones. Maybe turn a wide stepper into two narrow steppers side-by-side - you could offset them 180 degrees from each other, which might look cool. You could even just change the colour scheme. Or make it look like more than just a mechanism - a cottage with a waterwheel, or a Roman aqueduct, whatever specialist pieces you have on hand. It pains me to write this, but if you require step-by-step instructions for everything you build, then maybe GBC isn't for you - not least because when you come to connect modules together there's almost inevitably some jiggery-pokery needed, which won't be in the instructions. There are lots of ideas floating around, lots of completed modules you can draw inspiration from, and we can help you with any specific problems that you face, but you're going to need to do some experimenting yourself. Kind regards, Owen.
  5. I claim that motorised drive is not a prerequisite of being a supercar. Sure most MOCs would have this feature, but I wouldn't necessarily disqualify a creation from supercar status just because it doesn't have a drive motor (all other elements being in place).
  6. To my mind, this would be equivalent to building either of the first two models described here http://technicopedia.com/8485.html, but with the Control Center replaced by the IR Receivers/SBrick. The fact that the model is stationary does not make it any less remote-controlled.
  7. I thought that too, but there's nowhere to put the axle joiner in the middle of the axle - it would get in the way of _something_. Presumably it was easier to just drop in a 32 axle than redesign the model.
  8. If I may make a humble suggestion, it might be a nice idea to invert one of the printed tiles in the cockpit - three dials all reading 82???
  9. I will be the first to admit that I don't know a great deal about the structural requirements of tracked vehicles, but those legs look awfully flimsy to me.
  10. Hi Bryan. I hope I make it too! At the moment I'm torn between not wanting to go all the way there for just a weekend, and not having a great desire to see anywhere else traveling alone. It's nice to know I'm not being too much of a tightwad in hoping for a roommate. I'd appreciate you keeping an ear out for me. Anyone else reading this thread, I'm looking for a roommate for the weekend! PM or email (my user name @gmail.com) if you're interested. I'll edit this post if the situation changes. Owen. EDIT: I figured I should book a room before the dollar falls any further! Still looking for someone to share with though...
  11. Hi Guys. I'm looking at coming across from Australia. I notice that the hotel options are for one huge bed or two normal beds. I will be coming alone, so all I need is one normal bed, and presumably there are others in the same situation. Is it normal for folks to share a room? Owen.
  12. I've just thrown something together, and it works fine. You may find that integrating components that were designed for the studless system into a studful construction somewhat more of a hassle than you first expect - you often need half-stud offsets to get things to line up. Good luck!
  13. Lies!! I see at least three black panels as well! I like how you've stacked the receivers to match the profile of the double-bent beams. Well done Owen.
  14. Nice to see something that's not a vehicle, and nice to see something that's larger in LEGO than in real life. When I read that there's a 'silk' winch powered by an XL motor, I assumed it'd be suspended from its backside and able to go up and down a string. But walking is good too. Well done. Owen.
  15. Well, that'll teach me to post something before actually checking it. I stand corrected.
  16. Of course it is. If you can imagine it, you can build it!
  17. As near as I can figure, it's the above for modern sets (since the introduction of the blue tube), but in the two-tone old days (e.g. 8455, 8868), it is light grey for pump -> valve, dark grey for valve -> cylinders. I have yet to come across a set that breaks this rule, but that doesn't necessarily mean anything!
  18. Plenty of ideas here http://www.teamhassenplug.org/GBC/contraptionideas.htm
  19. You could always use a couple of the old toothed connectors - that's what the #n connectors replaced, after all. http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=48324
  20. Thanks folks, it seems like Chicago it is. I intend to bring _some_ modules with me. I find I can pack half a dozen or so into my suitcase. How do I get in touch with this Tom Atkinson chap - is he a member here?
  21. That's kind of what I was trying to get at, but for some reason couldn't get the right words down. If you find that one box doesn't suffice (I don't mean to imply that Milan will be wrong, but the possibility is there - if the car is geared to go fast, then the current drawn during acceleration might get too much), then I would suggest each driving motor be powered by its own battery box, with the other stuff spread evenly across the two boxes. The reason is that two heavily loaded L/XL motors don't draw that much less current than two heavily loaded L/XL motors plus a bunch of other lightly loaded stuff, so if you're breaking the limit on the latter, you'll probably also break the limit on the former. On the other hand, if it's only juuuust not making it with one battery box, you might be able to get away with one AA battery box for driving and a smaller one (rechargeable, or AAA or similar) for the other bits. But again, you will need to see for yourself what actually works. Good luck! Owen.
  22. The answer is, as is so often the case, "it depends". Your limitation is on current draw, which depends far more strongly on motor load than which motors you use. If the motors are lightly loaded (i.e. not trying to drive the car too fast, mechanisms with no unnecessary friction, etc.), then you should be fine with one battery box (if you're using a V1 receiver that will impose a lower limit). On the other hand, I have no idea of the current draw of the servo motor, so you may find that you need two battery boxes. Owen.
  23. Hi folks. I'm in the fortunate position of being able to fly pretty much anywhere in the world for a relatively cheap price (compensation for being seriously delayed on my most recent international flight). I am planning to travel to North America this summer for one of the large conventions that they do so well. I'm particularly keen to take part in a large GBC, having just coordinated one here in Australia. My question is, which convention has the biggest/best GBC setup? I've been told that Brickworld in Chicago is the one to beat - would that be a fair assessment? Is there anything else I should be considering when deciding which one to go to? To the mods: I wasn't sure whether this should go in the Events forum, or even the generic GBC discussion topic in this forum. Please move/merge as appropriate. Thanks. Owen.
  24. Sure - here are the instructions: Step 1) Study all published photos and videos Step 2) Figure out how the mechanisms must work Step 3) Recreate the mechanisms Step 4) Recreate the aesthetics As an added bonus, these instructions work for pretty much any of the wonderful creations you see on this forum (or any other, for that matter)! If there's anything specific that you need help with in that, I can probably help, but I'm not going to make put-this-pin-into-that-slot instructions. Owen.
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