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ScottishDave

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by ScottishDave

  1. Excellent job! Very clean, very simple. Do you have any plans to put lighting in your model?
  2. The top variant will not work unless you pull the middle of the engine curve out by one more stud: this is what I did lately, to give a more accurate and even curve to the engines. The middle variant will work just fine. I tried it in real bricks, and it looks great. . Now all I have to do is bricklink another fifty bar 3L... One note: on the underside I only use two 1x1 plates with clip light per flap: the curve of the engines does not allow for four. This goes some way to explaining why it was all so fragile.
  3. Yes, joining the 4x4 plates with the hinges stopped them dropping off at a touch :-)
  4. Thanks for the comments and the suggestion . Going by TESB, I suspect that the Hyperdrive is threaded through the ship, and so intertwined with the other ship's systems that it is impossible to debug without tearing half the ship apart. I'd be very surprised if there was a single neat box labelled "Hyperdrive" in the Falcon's engine room (and if there was, it would probably be Han's espresso machine). It's all hypothetical, of course, and I can only hope that JJ sets some scenes in this area come December .
  5. Yup, those are the ones. There's also a 1x4 plate (3710) between the pieces you identified. I recently finished the lower engine flaps, and I think you might find this useful: The lower flaps are designed to match the ones. I built the flaps themselves the same way as the upper ones, and mounted them on 4x4 plates. I then joined those plates to one another using hinge plates. Lastly I attached them to the curved engine block using modified 1x1 plates with thick "o" rings. It's a Snot 180 technique which can be seen on this wiki page I also built a new curved piece of hull to go between the new flaps and the landing bay housing: To save you tearing your hair out analysing this one, the LXF for this part is here Note (on the LXF) the use of "old style" hinge plates as 180-snot joiners. You have to use these, I'm afraid, in place of the original clips and hinges, to get the new section a crucial half-plates-thickness lower. You'll also have to replace a left and right wedge brick with a pair of 2x3 wedge plates and a 1x3 plate to allow the new piece to "slot in" to the landing bay housing. The end result is very rigid and strong, and easily bears some of the weight of the engine section. Engine room interior: Totally made up, of course. You never, ever see this place in the film, so me and the kids let our imaginations run riot. The main goal was playability: the minifigs have to be able to "maintain" the engines. Note the battery box in the corner. This is the one that powers the LED strip in the engines which makes them light up. It's usually covered with a brickbuilt greebly piece. Edited: spelling.
  6. Well, that's odd. It worked perfectly for me. Here is the LXF file and the XML file. If you want to know how to open an LDR file in LDD, look in the appropriate forum. The "Section Index" post should help you find what you need! ] There is no way I can answer that! So much depends upon which suppliers have what bricks at good prices in your country, what parts you already have, and and so on. Perhaps you should run both the XMLs I provided through Brickficiency? Try this topic in the LDD forum for a tutorial on using Brickficiency. Good luck with your project. EDIT: I've put both XMLs and both LXFs in the first post. -- David.
  7. I'm sorry, I do not have any instructions. However: if you open the LXF file in Lego Digital Designer and select "Build Mode" it will generate step by step instructions for you. I hope this helps... David.
  8. Hi Chris, Sorry to hear that you are having problems. I actually didn't have an xml file... I didn't brickink the model from the lxf, I built it first then used LDD to document it. However, I ran the lxf through Superkalle's LDD Manager program (available on this very forum) to produce an XML file for you. I've put it on brickshelf and dropbox. I tweaked the LXF file also - removed the pilot, and fixed three incorrect colours. I've put the updated version of the LXF on brickshelf and dropbox. Be aware that if you are, for any reason, regenerating the xml file from the LXF, you will need to manually change part 3048 (from LDD) to 3048b (to get it into Bricklink). This may be an issue with LDD Manager - currently at version 1.25 and not updated since December 2013. And no, sorry, I'm not aware of anyone having made an LXF of Larry's original snowspeeder. I do seem to recall seeing an XML for it somewhere, probably on this forum - do a search and see what turns up... -- David.
  9. Speaking as someone who has put a minifig-scale interior into a UCS Falcon: I completely agree. And yes, the landing legs are "a bit" off. As I am currently modding the legs of my UCS Falcon, I may have something more to say about that soon: but this isn't the thread for it...
  10. Good, glad to help. You mean, this, I take it? From memory: for the rear engine deck, its mostly 3x12 wedge plates (8 of each type), a few plates & 1 x 4 hinge plates underneath (as seen here) and a few extra bits for detailing. I took most of the existing detail from the existing engine deck as-is and moved it onto the new one. For the mid-rear quarters, with the greebly cutouts... well. It's hard to say what extra bits you need. Take a close look at the photo. You need all the parts you can see there, plus all sorts of plates to hold it all together underneath and more 1x4 hinges. It's a mess underneath, but it works. Let me know if you need any more photos.
  11. Ah yes, OceanBlue72's engine mod! It's a great one, and the rest of his mods are worth checking out too if you like that sort of thing. I recreated this exact mod a few years ago. It definitely is the 30374 which is pictured. To my eyes, the bars look too long in this photo. You might want to consider the Bar 3L instead: http://www.bricklink...colorID=86&in=A This mod is very delicate in it's original form, and very tricky to get right. I redid it about a year ago, taking advantage of my curved engine mod, to proudce a simpler and much stronger version: I replaced half the 2x2 plates on top of my engine mod with 2x2 tiles, then alternated 4x8 plates with 4 x 9 wedge plates (or without stud notches - doesn't matter). For the underside, I used 4x4 plates, and held them on using "O" clip plates. in a 180 SNOT configuration. However, as with OceanBlue72's mod, individual bottom plates fall off too easily - I'm getting fed up putting them back on. I am currently considering how to strengthen this: I'm thinking hinge plates, like Brian Tobin's falcon or 1x3 tile plates (on order) to go under the rear hull plates. I have the Falcon in bits in front of me right now, so if you more information, or detailed photos of the construction, now is a good time to ask!
  12. As it happens, In 2010 I started the build of my Falcon, the first out of my Dark Ages, with a 20 kg job lot of lego from eBay. In hindsight, I was extremely lucky: that 20kg came from another AFOL. In particular, there was a huge bag of light grey parts which gave me a great start on my Falcon. I then spent about another £300 on Bricklink and eBay to complete the stock UCS Falcon. I don't think that this was a typical experience, mind you... you're more likely to have to buy quite a few lots in order to harvest parts from them. YMMV! My Falcon has quite a mix of old and new gray. I personally like it, and think it adds subtle detail and tonal variation which suits the Falcon quite well. There are some good photos of how it looks on this post here. Disclaimer: by the time I photographed it, it wasn't a stock UCS Falcon anymore.
  13. Hi, My brickbuilt dish is the same as H_Solo's. I don't know about "better", but here is a picture of it, and a discussion about it's construction, at this post here: Brickinking a UCS Millennium Falcon - Page 10 This should give you all the info you need to build one of your own.
  14. Your Falcon looks excellent - those are nice, well-chosen greeblies you've added, and it's always nice to see someone using the modified engines and dish! Do the engines light up, by any chance? Good luck with the Docking Bay - it sounds like a brilliant way to display the Falcon.
  15. It just goes to show: even in the Imperial Fleet, you can't get the parts! :-). I used old dark grey on mine... I hadn't realised that they were rare in dark bley.
  16. Sure, no problem! The 1x2 45-segree slope bricks are slightly "weak sauce" but I'm waiting on some better pictures of the supporting frame before I finalise the design. Thank you. Do you happen to know of an existing mold? The closest I can think of is the Blockade Runner radar: - but at 6 studs wide, it's far too small for the UCS Falcon. Not too mention insanely expensive. Again. Thank you for the feed line... "She may not look like much", but "I've made a lot of special modifications myself!" . Seriously, it's a work in progress. Constructive criticism is always welcome.
  17. It looks great! The fleet continues to grow... How did you get on with the hinges - did you replace them in the end?
  18. Does this help? Original posting My flickr album which has more photos of the work in progress bmerigan's blog where he shows his own implementation of my design
  19. I've never been happy with the plain dish on my bricklinked UCS Millennium Falcon. I've tried a brick-built solution, and home-made stickers, and even water-slide transfers: but it still doesn't look quite right. Then I saw some leaked photos which showed the new Episode VII Falcon radar. As you can see, it looks exactly as if it has a 2x2 Lego plate mounted on the front: (photo from here) How could I resist? Here is a link to the LXF file, which contains the radar: and a mirror in case Brickshelf goes down again... Edit: Parts list, by request Here it is on my Falcon (which isn't much like a stock UCS Falcon these days, but it ought to give you some idea):
  20. I do agree that the filming model just had a blank area - but I always thought that this was due to special effects limitations: they had to superimpose a smooth blue glow there, and with optical compositing, which is semi-transparent, you therefore needed a smooth area to composit onto. I seem to recall that matte paintings of the Falcon, and the "full" scale mockup of the exterior, had grillework on the engines. Most model kits, illustrations etc. have the grillework. ... that's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it. Once again: credit where it is due, I got the entire idea for the engines from the amazing work of Matt de Lanoy.
  21. I am very excited about this set (as are my kids). I built a few Doctors from lego last month, and I'm hoping for an official 12th Doctor (that's the current guy) to complete my line-up: he's hard to do "right" with available bricks. On that note, I'd love a 5th, 7th and 9th Doctor, as I had to resort to internet-sourced sticker designs for those Doctors - are you listening, Lego? Andrew Clarke's TARDIS console design is excellent, and I do hope they keep it exactly as it is. If they do to a "DeLorean" on it, I won't be happy! As others have said: Here's hoping that this is the start of a long and fruitful collaboration between Lego and the BBC.
  22. 
I see both your points :-). 

I used flat silver cheese slopes, more grille tiles on the sides plus I lengthened the front by another stud. I don't really want to hijack misupix's thread by posting pics of my DeLorean: and it is so derivative that it doesn't deserve a thread of it's own, but if you want to see what it looks like, I put a picture on imgur
  23. So they do. Like I said, the pesky rebels had already had a go at it!
  24. IT LIVES! Bwa-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha! Many thanks, DarthTwoShedsJackson. That was a great set of pictures. This one is built from parts which I had to hand, so it is missing a few small details: and one or two bits are built differently. The kids love it. Ezra has destroyed it half-a-dozen times already!
  25. Thank you also! That's certainly enough detail to build this walker.
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