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ScottishDave

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Everything posted by ScottishDave

  1. ScottishDave
    Yes, that's an oldie - but a goldie. I adapted that engine design for the UCS a while back, with lighting: discussion thread and LXF files are here. There is also a general thread for UCS mods. There is another version of the mod on that thread, by Daphatty.
  2. ScottishDave
    I'm pretty sure that this is the X-Wing I saw at the Great Western Brick Show in Swindon. If so: it's even more impressive when it's sat right in front of you, folks! It's huge, the details on the droid strip are amazing, and the custom stickers really "sell" the model.
  3. ScottishDave
    Well, in this photo you can see the position of the landing legs: They are positioned under the upper wings, and push up on them slightly: at the same time, the lower wings are dragged down by the weight of the guns. You can see the effect in the photo I posted on the first page, repeated here for clarity: As you can see, there is a bit of white visible under the curved slopes by the guns. If the wings were level, this wouldn't be visible. To make this go away, the parts need to clutch tighter... ... actually, typing that out just gave me the solution. I've replaced one of the 1x2 tiles on top of each lower wing with a jumper plate, which grips on to the underside of the upper engines: and it has completely solved the problem. Thanks for prompting me to look at it! -- Dave. EDIT: Actually, just putting a jumper on one side is quite enough, and it makes it easier to open.
  4. ScottishDave
    Well, there are two parts to that answer... Firstly: Psiaki's original design involved click hinges placed at 180 degrees to one another, to attach the bottom wing upside down. This produced a gap of half a plate's thickness. My design has both wings the right way up and side by side, so it totally eliminates that gap. Secondly: The wings do sag slightly, due to the tolerances of lego and the clutch power of the parts. The upper wings are supported by the landing stands: the lower wings are not. On my white X-wing there is a noticable sag when the ship is landed between the upper and lower wings. This could be corrected by redesigning the landing gear (I have not gotten around to this yet but it is on the "to do" list.) Due to having newer parts, the wings on my black x-wing (of identical design) do not sag at all. I hope this answers your question.
  5. ScottishDave
    I gave in to temptation and ordered some. Thank you very much for the suggestion, Smitty500!
  6. ScottishDave
    It'll spring apart and send wee clip plates flying everywhere... I take all the blame. . Ah, now there's a temptation that I'm stuggling with at the moment myself... I did like your other photos, but that is just lovely . Keep up the good work!
  7. ScottishDave
    Thank you! And remember: great minds think alike! Your design has a few clear wins over mine: I think that your "creative" canopy is great, and easily beats my lazy re-use of Psiaki's canopy design. Personally, I'd keep it like that instead of using the TLG canopy (which I found quite disappointing). I like your nose design: It really looks the part - sharp and sleek. A few small thoughts... I see that like myself, you are UK based. When you come to build in real bricks, you may find it a wee bitty difficult getting hold of enough cams, in europe, in white, for a decent price: or the curved slope immediately in front of them. Just sayin'. The top of your engines has a nice, subtle improvement relative to mine. I might go further and suggest - a part I'm still toying with using myself. Your use of the curved tube idea looks the biz, but in real bricks, I had to add extra clips to hold it to the engine - two was not enough. This turned it from a smooth even curve into a squarer arch. Unless you have a neat and sneaky way of keeping a 3mm rigid hose from uncurling out of the position into which you have bent it? And if so, what is it please?!? .
  8. ScottishDave
    Exactly . Exactly . I'm tempted to buy some and spray them black... .
  9. ScottishDave
    Yup, those six innocent-looking little slopes are flipping expensive. Well done!
  10. ScottishDave
    Wow, excellent! That's a great start. Very interested to see where you are going with the nose. Just a quick suggestion - you can get rid of the entire "click hinge"/180 thing on the wing mechanism - it makes them stronger and lets you have both sets of wings the right way up. I attached the engines using a variant of the technique which billyamy used on his thread (and for much the same reason - it is a classic way to do 180 degree joins). I hope this helps!
  11. ScottishDave
    Thank you for the nice comments, chaps: much appreciated. I'm currently working on a black and orange one: (Yes, the canopy is non purist. Please forgive me , on the grounds that it looks really cool.)
  12. ScottishDave
    That looks absolutely amazing. I'm looking forward to seeing it finished. I think you're doing an excellent job of capturing the shapes and the details of the original model. I can match up every part on your model to an original part in the photographs, and everything looks in proportion with everything else - brilliant work!
  13. ScottishDave
    Thank you very much! Thanks - that's an excellent resource. I used that one as reference myself back when Toro was posting WIP pictures.
  14. ScottishDave
    What he said, with studs on . Five years in, and I'm still finding stuff to tweak and improve...
  15. ScottishDave
    You're welcome! Yup, I spend too much time on that forum: mainly drooling over the 1:1 replica of the Falcon cockpit that is being built over there. Hmmm... now there is an interesting idea for a lego project! Small addendum to my original point about the flaps... I just found the Star Wars Screencaps site, and I can see on the screencaps that the hatches on the front centre leg only ARE fore and aft. So, yeah: the guys on therpf got that one wrong . You are welcome. I hope you get to join the crazy club soon!
  16. ScottishDave
    Thank you very much for the link to your flickr album. This is exacly the kind of constructive criticism / feedback that I really like: I am delighted to see you taking my ideas and making them part of your own, improved MOC! I am impressed with what you've done so far, and I am really looking forward to seeing the finished product. A few random comments: The exhaust ports look GOOD from above, and I like the diameter you've achieved on them. They seem a little tall at first glance, but they might grow on me... May I please use your solution for the docking rings? It looks perfect. . Are those 57518 in silver / Dark Bluish grey? (could be either, and either work as a colour). I like the use of the silver hubcaps in the greeblies (told you this would be random, but those caught my eye) and I see that you've made some significant changes to the cutout greeblies. It looks more like the five-footer Falcon - is this deliberate?
  17. ScottishDave
    Thanks for all the nice comments, guys! Thank you! The curved slopes do move around a bit, so it ain't perfect: but I'm pleased with the overall effect. You are definitely the first person to use that part on a T-70, and I apologise for not mentioning this in my original post. However, it was not a deliberate snub! What he said.... I honestly thought that you had drawn inspiration for the canopy from the Psiaki X-Wing. As TheBear knows, I already have a Psiaki-inspired T-65. My use of the part was based directly on this model, as I wanted a matching pair, like so: (with apologies for the hunk of junk photobombing the shot )
  18. ScottishDave
    Here is my version of the T-70 X-Wing from "The Force Awakens": This rendition owes a lot to Mike Psiaki's T-65 X-Wing: in particular I took the nose and the X-Wing opening mechanism from his design. For the rest of the design, I was trying to capture the fact that the T-70 has a much smoother and sleeker shape than the boxy ol' 1970s T-65. I had a lot of fun with the engine intakes: I was trying to capture the slight inward curve at the front, and the large area of flat silver. The sloping area between the engines and the wings was quite challenging: in the end, I borrowed some ideas from BaronSat's T-70. I am especially pleased with the rear of the engines: not just the correct off-set from the centre, but the technic cams which attach the engines securely and semi-accurately. The only problem is that the cams are not cheap or readily available in white. There are more photos on the flickr album: do enjoy, and please let me know what you think.
  19. ScottishDave
    Hi, itsalectime, and thanks for the kind words! The last parts should be arriving tomorrow. I hope to post a new topic for this mod at the weekend.
  20. ScottishDave
    Many thanks for the nice words, chaps! highaltitude, I'm very happy that you've found my modded hull plates useful. I've been intending for a while to do more LXF files, but I never seem to find the time. However, since you ask nicely, I'll make a serious attempt to digitise this area soon. In the meantime: if this helps, I built a new, stronger framework to prevent mandible sag (brought on by removing most of the framework around the cockpit). IIRC, I attached the hull plates using L-shaped brackets. I hope this helps!
  21. ScottishDave
    Oh man, you beat me to the punch on those wings . Nice mods, BTW. I like 'em all!
  22. ScottishDave
    MY engine mod (LXF available in my build thread, link in the post above yours) definitely works with my flaps mod . Daphatty's should also work, but you'll have to replace every other 2x2 plate on the top with tiles. My rear hull mod uses mostly existing pieces from the set, on the "engine deck". Hoever, the port and starboard chunks use a LOT of non-set pieces. If I were approaching this mod as a builder, I'd get hold of an LXF of the UCS Falcon (from the appropriate forum here) and delete all except the sections which are to be replaced. I'd then upload both files to rebrickable and compare the inventories...
  23. ScottishDave
    SO much better: thank you for that. I am unconvinced by the placement of the eyestalk ( I think that the "box wrench on top" method looks better) but other than that, I think you've nailed it.
  24. ScottishDave
    I love the entire thing - it looks totally badass. I like how the head looks nearly like the one on your AT-ST - but not quite. I especially like the wings. They actually LOOK like the wings on the Inquisitor's TIE, unlike the lumpen things on the official set.
  25. ScottishDave
    "Rusty" red is right. The red which Lego use isn't a bad match, but the original colour has a lot more orange in it than you'd expect. These guys do pre-mixed Falcon paint colours (for the DeAgostini partwork model which is being published at the moment): http://www.starwars-doa.co.uk/doa-starwars-millennium-falcon-single-bottles-4-c.asp See how yellow the "ESB Grime" shade is? (this is the basic colour of the 32" Falcon). See how orange-y the panel red is?
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