andythenorth

Nice rotator

If the track is flat, just do two big swingarms on the rear to a beam axle, and one or two springs. It will only move up and down parallel to the chassis, no twist, but will take out shock loads. I just built one of my kids a PF buggy this way.

I like the symmetry of the extra outriggers, but you don't need them "It's done not when there's nothing left to add, but when there's nothing more to take away" <- I'm quoting (misquoting?) somebody there, didn't look up who

FYI, for AFOLs, Bricklink offers some of the older train stuff at fair prices. This crane sells for same price TLG would charge for it retail if released now, it's a good set: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=4552-1#T=S&O={"ss":"UK","iconly":0} TLG included an updated version of this in one of the recent freight sets https://brickset.com/sets?query=4546 . If they did that standalone as a Great Vehicle set, with a tipping bed or crane, and 2 coupler pieces included (for shunting freight cars), it would be a nice complement to both trains and city (fits with the city trams as well as trains). The rest: you want em, you build em

When I was a kid I used to buy from the 'order parts' form in the back of the catalogue. Pick-a-brick on lego.com has train wheels, but not couplings or baseplates (as far as I can see using the filters - might be wrong). I'm an AFOL, but I have no interest in buying trains other than the sets (for my kids). But I did buy a lot of train parts from Bricklink, which my kids are now using to build MOCs. If you're not an AFOL and not savvy about Bricklink, there's no obvious way from TLG to build yourself more trains. Unless I'm just looking at pick-a-brick wrong

My guess is it it's usually a child safety issue. I always build clutches into winches even though it makes them unplayable. I do that because I've seen kids wrap the line around themselves both intentionally and accidentally. If the line constricts the windpipe it's potentially fatal. I'm just guessing though, and off-topic.

Have you tried Boost? The single-piece motor battery box is limited, but it's not awful. It has additional ports for motors / sensors. It wouldn't be good for Technic PF system, but in the Boost context it's pretty ok.

Nice MOC. I wanted to buy a Pajero IRL, but I bought a Ford Transit Custom instead. How about a MOC of that next? http://photobucket.com/gallery/http://s372.photobucket.com/user/fordfiestast_co_uk/media/Album Nineteen/20151018_085843-1_zpsorow7ffd.jpg.html (not mine)

I wish we could shout 'noob' more, like people in the online tank game I play. No I don't actually.

[shrug] I don't disagree with the OP that this happens, but so what eh?

+1, (US) https://education.lego.com/en-us/products/pneumatics-add-on-set/9641 (UK) https://www.amazon.co.uk/9641-LEGO-Education-Pneumatics-Add/dp/B001NLVDOC It's relatively expensive in most territories, but a good source of pneumatic parts. Or the air tanks are widely available on Bricklink for £10 upwards. Sorry for going off-topic

Technic: BI mostly via pins and axles System: BI mostly via studs But I think it's 99% meaningless argument

That is fricking awesome Makes up for the last 2 years of weird over-sized, over-priced UCS sets. Totally instantly want it

One of the best Technic sets of last 10 years. Looks good, very playable, low price, multiple types of mechanism.

£139.99 is the current Amazon UK price for 42070. Seems closer to reasonable. Christmas present for my kids. It's too big, too boring, too much ££, but they got really into tow trucks from watching Heavy Rescue.

Awesome lawnmower pull

Power! Nicely done. Based on trucks I've built, I favour 4 L motors over 2 XL, I think you get more a useful balance of torque and speed from that set up. Just my £0.02 https://www.flickr.com/photos/andythenorth/albums/72157649987860696

Needs to drop to about £170 before I'd buy it. Both my kids want it, but I'm not paying ~£200 for it Related: it's also too big, where are we going to keep it?

Got too much. Not fun. Need to sell some.

If we're playing realism, rotator booms just aren't very fat, not even on military spec vehicles https://www.jerrdan.com/equipment/rotator I'd say build what looks good though, eh?

I dunno about other people, but for me "TLG have f*cked up again" posts kind of lack any fun, at least on so flimsy evidence. Seems more fun to wait for, e.g. the detailed takedowns of why 42070 is mostly crap and TLG have actually f*cked up, rather than going from 0-100mph from some blurry prelims. But eh, the internet and stuff. At least we're not in the Train forum "why can't TLG make my model train set" groundhog day? Also my kids want 42070 badly, SO EVERYONE ALL MUST BE WRONG, right? ?

This many blues does not my boat float. I'm not a serious AFOL, just casual, but I've been avoiding light blue sets because there are too many variations.

Might have been spotted before, but 42069 looks 'inspired by' Ken Block's Hoonigan F150 with tracks http://blog.caranddriver.com/watch-ken-block-assault-a-mountain-with-his-beastly-tracked-f-150-raptortrax/

I like the stripped body and the blue spoiler, so eh

No it won't Motors forcibly slow down or speed up in response to load all the time. When cornering, the variable speed of the inner and outer wheels just varies the load on each motor. Lego motors are just cans in a plastic case, with some gears. They're not precision industrial motors with constant-speed controls. There's nothing there that's going to be significantly damaged in the short term by this setup. One motor might probably draw a few more mA than the other one, and it will run a bit warmer, so if you left the vehicle going round in circles for days, one motor might have a shorter lifespan than the other, but nothing to write home about If you really stalled one, the thermal protection would kick in. I'd love to see Philo comment on the topic, but eh. If the motors were constant-speed each with their own motor driver, then yes, this would be a valid concern, and the vehicle would try and run in a straight line, like a mechanically coupled axle with no diff. But I've run one-motor-per-wheel, quite a lot. If it was a problem, this vehicle with one L motor per-wheel wouldn't turn on a dime Especially given it has no weight over the steer axle, so the steer wheels are prone to floating. But it works fine see the video Sorry for hijacking this thread - I sometimes see a bit of angst in Eurobricks about using multiple motors, it's mostly no drama.