dhc6twinotter

Awesome! Can you tell us what the final color(s) will be?

Thanks again for the help guys! My hard drive crapped out on me a couple weeks ago, so I've had to re-install everything. When I re-downloaded the ldraw parts library, I went ahead and also downloaded the unofficial parts. The mini turntable was included in that library. So far so good, but I've still got to figure out the buffer generator. Thanks!

It's great to see Jurgen's backhoe getting some good reviews! He has done a fantastic job with it.

Welcome to the forum! Your story is very similar to mine. I got back into LEGO when my parents bought me a set for Christmas 4 years ago. It was supposed to be a gag gift...little did they know it would revive my interest in LEGO. When I started building with studless, the first thing I noticed was that all the dimensions were now odd numbered. Instead of 1x16 studded beams, I now had 1x15 beams. That threw me for a loop at first, but after a while I got used to it. I think the best way to learn how to build with studless is to build sets from instructions, whether that be by official LEGO instructions or instructions created by talented Technic builders. Just my $.02. Again, welcome to the forum!

Thanks for the fantastic review! Such an awesome creation! I really like the way the engine and tranny are built as separate sections and added to the chassis later. The body work looks superb as well. Do the axles just have the two links, or are there others as well? Looks like two per axle in the pictures. I assume the springs are used to help position the axles? Again, a really nice creation! :thumbup:

I agree with the two posts above. They appear to be more of a spade assembly rather than stabilizers. Some of the tow trucks in the US have spades, much like this Jerr-Dan rotator: Or this smaller tow truck: I've seen pictures of a few tow trucks that have spades on the rear, in addition to stabilizers on the sides. IIRC, the 80 ton Jerr-Dan is one of them.

If it isn't rm8's version of the crawler, than my guess is that it's another radio control (not IR) car, similar to years past.

I just got back from a visit to my local LEGO store. They have the F1 car for 129.99.

Boo, I think it really depends on what you plan on building. IMHO, the current log truck is a pretty good general parts pack. If you plan to build more remote control stuff, than the 8043 excavator has quite a few PF components, but not a huge part count. If you like to build construction equipment, than I would suggest maybe buying the Unimog or Excavator (again, not that high of a part count though). If you want to build cars, than the new F1 Racer may be a better option. And there's the Service Truck and Crane coming out this fall. Both should be nice for parts. My vote for best starter set is the 8258 Crane Truck from a few years ago. Some would say the playability isn't that great, but it has an excellent variety of parts. If you can find one cheap, it would be worth buying. I think having the parts from a few sets on hand is nice to have instead of buying individual pieces from bricklink or whatever. Building with Technic takes some trial and error, and having to order individual parts would be a pain. Bricklink works well for buiding from instructions or for a radom piece here or there, but if you're buiding for you own moc, nothing beats having the parts on hand.

Good looking crane!

JCB Wheeled Excavator by 696PAZUZU:

Burf, that's an impressive project you've created! It's great that you were recognized by some of the LEGO top guys too! :laugh: Classic!

A few of mine: JCB 3CX PF backhoe: Case Steiger Articulating Tractor:

I think that part on the bottom of the chassis is just one of these. It's hard to make out in the picture, but I think there are some black beams on either side of it. That part is located directly below the turntable and probably supports the axle that runs through the center of the turntable. Just my guess....

Looks like the crane uses different steering arm lengths to achieve the varying steer angles, much like 8053 did. Front axle uses 3L steering arms, 2nd and 4th axle uses 5L, and the 5th axle uses a 4L steering arm assembly. The 1x15 beam on the front axle was installed incorrectly as well.

Once I figure out what I want to build, I start out by doing some research on whatever it is I'm building. I look at the type and number of functions, and decide what scale I want to build it at. Usually the wheels set the scale. If I'm building an RC moc and have more than 8 functions, I decide what type of "gearbox" I'm going to use and which functions to group together. If I'm building a large, complicated moc, I usually do some sketches to lay out the location of gearbox (if equiped) and location of motors, etc. Lately though, I've been learning how to use MLCAD for some preliminary design work. I currently have 3 future mocs underway in MLCAD. After the rough design work is completed, I start building the most complicated parts of a moc first. If the moc has a gearbox, I start there, followed by motor and battery box placement. If I'm working on a large moc, I jump back and forth between sections. I find that if I get stuck and can't figure out how to build a section, I jump to a different section. Usually, while working on one section, I get an idea how to complete the problematic section. I also try to build in modules, usually with things like axle assemblies, gearboxes, and motor banks comprised in their own module. As I build these modules, I try to incorporate points to mount them to the chassis. Next I mount the modules together to form a chassis, and once I have that done, I begin on the bodywork. Building a strong chassis the biggest area I need to improve in. I'm trying to get better at building a stronger chassis, but it's still very much a work in progress. The trick to all of this is that when I'm working on one section, I have to keep the whole project in mind. I may only be working on finding a spot for my motor(s), but at the same time, I have to think about how it will all fit in my chassis and bodywork. That's what makes it so much fun!

So, anybody know if the Technic mini-turntable is available? My last parts update included many new parts like the L motor and servo, but I haven't been able to find the mini turn table. Part search doesn't seem to work, unless I'm doing something wrong. Thanks.

Hey David, I was referring to the light bluish grey 5x11 panels above the gearbox in the chassis, just above the 2nd and 3rd axles. Also, the 5x11 yellow panel on the side of the superstructure (opposite of the gearbox selector) that was shown in the old photos is not show on this panel. Other differences I notice is the color of the pulleys in the wheels (now light grey instead of dark grey), the white axles in the outriggers, and the axle on top of the boom is now at a more shallow angle. I don't know whether this picture or the other picture represents what we will see in the final model, but aside from the color of the pulleys in the wheels, I like this version better. EDIT: Sorry, I just realized these points were brought up several pages ago. I'm a bit late I see!

Nice find! The crane in that video looks a bit different than the other models we've seen. The panels on the sides of the superstructures are missing, and it looks like there are now 2 grey panels instead of one used above the chassis gearbox.

18. Priovit70 - 2 23. oo7 - 1 31. soundwave_sw - 1 37. Etzel - 1

Thanks again for the help. I've been pretty busy the last few days, but I was able to work on this a bit this morning. I got my parts list updated (kinda a pain at first, but that was because of dumb me), and I played around with the arrow generator. Super simple to use. I haven't played around with the buffer generator yet, but I'll get to that in a bit. BTW, I'm using version 3.4. Thanks again for the help! There's a lot more to this program than I initially thought.

Well said.

I think the definition of "perfection" varies between each builder. Each builder seems to have their own rules that they follow, and their own idea of what makes a perfect moc. My idea of a perfect moc is one that looks good, is built well, and has realistic functions. To answer your question, I think it is possible to build a perfect moc, but a moc that is perfect to me may not be perfect to somebody else. IMHO, the Unimog is about the closest LEGO has been to creating a perfect Technic set. The only thing missing is pneumatic stabilizers. But, there are many other sets and mocs that I would consider to be realistic in authenticity and functionality. Would these be considered perfect? Some probably would be.

Exactly what I've been thinking. I was about to post something similar yesterday, but your post is much more eloquent than mine would have been.

Great looking trailer Olaf9198! I like the different steering geometry you have on each of those rear axles. ??? There's no need for a differential since this is a non-powered axle. Olaf9198's trailer allows each wheel to spin independently, which is perfectly fine. That steering geometry chart you posted would probably be the most ideal steering setup, but the vast majority of trucks in the United States don't use steering geometry like that. The majority of semi trucks here have dual drive axles that don't steer and also have tandem, non steering axles on the trailer. In the northwest, it's pretty common to see trucks with 3 or 4 axles on the trailer, non of which steer. Many trucks in the NW also have additional self-steering lift axles on the truck and trailer. In my area, many of the dump trucks and cement trucks use self-steering lift axles between the front steer axle and the dual drive axles. I've seen dump trucks with anywhere from 2-4 lift axles. From what I understand, these are not connected to the truck's steering, but steer themselves (like a grocery kart). The caster angle insures the wheels stay straight when the truck isn't turning.