dhc6twinotter

That is a really good looking aircraft! Well done! I really like the control center type setup as well.

Thanks for the notice! I just ordered two at 83 pounds each. Not sure how that happened...the price was 99 each, but when I checked out, it said 83. I don't have the crawler yet (not worth 200usd to me), but now I have to decide whether to open one of these, or just hang on to it for resale.

I'm fine with one modular building per year, but perhaps there could be one or two additional small sets to go with the modular buildings? These smaller sets could include 1930-1950 era vehicles, buses, trollies, food stands, etc. The smaller sets would be much cheaper and help fill out a nice cityscape..

Glad I can help.

Yup, that is correct. You can run two motors at the same time with the controller. One channel can operate 2 motors, blue output and red output. It looks like the bulldozer has 6 functions: -left drive -right drive -blade up/down -blade tilt -ripper up/down -ripper tilt 3 receivers will cover those functions and allow you to operate each one independently.

Each receiver has two outputs, which will let you run two different motors. So, 3 receivers will let you control 6 functions. Am I misunderstanding what you are trying to do? How many total functions are you trying to have?

I've seen two different ways to build motorized pneumatic valves. One method has a single motor that operates the pneumatic valve and compressor. The compressor only only turns on when the pneumatic valve is moved. The other method uses a motor to control the valve and a separate motor to run the compressor. This is how I've always done it, and having a pressure regulator is almost necessary if you go this route. Either way works fine, and either way has its pros and cons. You can build a pressure regulator to turn the compressor on/off as needed so that the compressor motor isn't running all the time. The pressure regulator will "detect" a pressure drop and turn the compressor motor on automatically. Once the pressure builds back up, the compressor will turn off. The pressure regulator uses a pneumatic cylinder (preferably a small one) connected to a PF switch. A rubber band is used to keep the pneumatic cylinder retracted. Here is a picture of Jennifer Clark's pressure regulator, which was built before PF stuff came out: And below is what I used on my tractor. Sorry the picture angle isn't the greatest, but you can see the pneumatic cylinder on the right with the PF switch on the left. There's also a rubber band out of view. The 3 m motors you see control the pneumatic valves, and the clutch gears keep the motors from stalling once the valves have hit their limits. With the newer servo motors, you can do away with all these gears and make a simpler motorized valve. Either way works fine. To answer your question about the battery box, I would think one battery box will be fine for what you have planned. The motors running the valves wouldn't be running at all times, only when you move the blade or ripper on your bulldozer. If you plan on having a motor to run the compressor separate from the valves (as described above), the compressor motor can be connected directly to the battery box via a pressure regulator. So, it sounds like you will need 3 IR receivers. 1 receiver will operate the left and right XL motors, and 2 receivers will operate the 4 m motors that control your pneumatic valves. You can do all of this off of one controller, but you will have to switch the channel each time you want to operate a different function, and you would not be able to operate any of the pneumatic functions while driving the bulldozer. To make things easier, I would recommend having your speed controller and 2 additional controllers. Personally, I don't like the speed controllers and wouldn't use it, but that's totally up to you. Hope that helps. Sorry for being long-winded there.

It's nice to see a direct link to the TechnicBricks website!

I would also suggest building a pressure regulator to turn the compressors on/off as needed. They are easy to build. I don't think you will need 2 battery boxes just for the pneumatics. As Alasdair Ryan mentioned, you should be fine powering the compressors and valve motors off of a single battery. The tractor I built used an m motor for the compressor (with a pressure regulator), 3 m motor auto valves, 2 XL drive motors, m motor for the PTO, and an m motor for the steering. All run off of 1 battery box. No problems at all.

Yeah, I've been checking their site on a daily bases. My guess is the motors that were originally going to be on sale individually are being used on M88's crawler set instead. But, what do I know...I could be completely wrong.

So, with the motor in the superstructure, I wonder what happens once the stabilizers have hit their limits? Does the superstructure start to slew, or is the superstructure heavy enough that the clutch gear in the chassis prevent this from happening?

Anio, do you know why each stabilizer has 2 gear racks stacked on top of each other?

Anio, thanks for the great reviews! Also, the TechLug website looks great! Wish I knew French.

So, I'm confused. Why would the V2 receiver work with 2 L motors, but not 2 m motors? I thought the V2 receiver was supposed to be better when used with 2 motors? EDIT: Nevermind....I should have read the link posted earlier first. I didn't know there were issues with the V2 receiver and the m motors. Pretty interesting and good to know.

My vote goes to the following: 8868 Air Tech Claw Rig--The pneumatic slew is a unique feature. 852 Helicopter--Probably the most realistic helicopter LEGO has ever built. 8002 Destroyer Droid--This has some pretty interesting unfolding mechanisms. 8480 Space Shuttle--The gearbox operating the different functions was pretty innovative for the time. Much more common now. 8837 Pneumatic Excavator--It's pretty neat how the HOG steering knob also works the slew. 8109 Truck--The lowering suspension was a really nice surprise. The dual action forks were nice as well. And whatever set that was that used gear racks as a sort of "program" to operate different features of a model. I was unsuccessful in finding the model.

I prefer the look of the service truck over the crane. I admit, the wheels look a bit off, but otherwise, I really like the green color and the overall look of the model. The crane is a mechanically brilliant set, but the large gaps in the bodywork makes it look unfinished.

I don't keep sets built. My joy comes from building mocs, so I'll buy a set and keep it built for a few weeks, then it comes apart and the pieces get tossed in my bin. However, I do want to start building some modular buildings. If I get around to building a few, I'll probably keep them built for use in group displays.

I don't have much more to add than what others have said, but I did want to say welcome to the Technic forum!

Welcome! As Alasdair Ryan mentioned, the red lever engages the PTO on the back of the tractor. However, as Blakbird mentioned, this feature is useless on this model. There is nothing in the set that connects to the PTO. The tractor is nearly identical to the 8284 tractor, just a different color. The 8284 tractor uses the PTO to engage/disengage the mower blades. As far as the panels go, bricklink is probably your best bet. Sorry, I'm not familiar with the UK bricklink stores, and I won't be able to recommend any. Again, welcome!

Also featured on AutoBlog! Congrats!

1) You can go as either one, but I recommend exhibitor. Being an exhibitor is the best way to get to know other builders. I attended my first show as an exhibitor. 2) I don't see why you would have any issues bringing your ship across the border. The border agents may even like what you've built. I've never done it, but I know people who have brought LEGO through border stations or customs at the airport. 3) No need to be part of a LUG. I was not part of a LUG when I displayed at my first event. The event is definitely funner when you have a group to be with, but being part of a LUG isn't required. 4) You should be able to display whatever you want. I've never been to an event that limits what you can display. I've never been to Brickfete, but I've heard good things about it. You should definitely try to make it.

That's pretty lame of the Brickfair folks to do that.

I would agree, 42008 doesn't look very good, and 42009 isn't much better. But, 42009 A model doesn't really look the greatest either (but wonderful functions!).

Oh, I see what you're saying with the thin liftarms. Yes, that should work, and it's a good solution. The u-joint angles are a bit steep, but if it works fine and has no binding, than it's fine. So long as none of the axles or u-joints are forced into place, then you should be ok. Generally, it's a good idea to brace the gears on either side, so if you have the space to add another liftarm on the backside of the gears, that will make things a bit stronger. I'm looking forward to your finished project!

Ah, ok. Thanks for the picture! It looks like the studded beam is sliding on top of your frame assembly. This is raising it too high and is messing up the clearances. If you can rebuild the truck frame so the studded beam doesn't touch it, then the studless beams on either side of your studded pieces can slide on the truck frame. Then you will have space to place a row of plates between the studded beam and the gear racks, like the picture I posted. I hope that makes sense...I'm not the best at explaining stuff... EDIT: I'm looking at your picture again, and you may have issues with the gear rack rubbing against those bushings and the u-joints. You can try the above to see it it will work, but the clearances will be very tight. I think you may be better off making the modifications suggested above, and in addition, I think the worm gear should be raised 1 stud with an 8 tooth gear inserted between the rack and worm gear. This will eliminate any chance of the rack rubbing the bushings and u-joints, however, you will also have to move the motor.