BrickMusher

Eurobricks Vassals
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About BrickMusher

  1. 4512-2 train converted to PF (but it slips)

    I usually use 2 Boat-weights on every Loco (so around 110 gr of extra weight) You placed the battery-box only half over the motor, so I guess nearly half of the pressure will be lead throu the undriven bogie. And rechargeble batterys are sometimes surprisingly lightweight. It also helps to place the motor on the rear end of Loco/waggon due to dynamic load distribution. About the door-issue: Your roof-construction looks somewhat weak, I think that gives to much freeplay to the upper doorrails and make the doors faling of. Try to fix the door-rails as good as possible. On dynamic problems, a short video often helps to explain or detect the problem better than photos can do. Good luck, keep us informed if you find anything ;-) Regards BrickMusher
  2. I guess, because of the whistle?! Was that one ok? Heard they are often broken. But have never seen one on my own.... https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=x870cc02#T=C&C=11
  3. Custom Train Stickers

    Maybe you should ask @JopieK
  4. Replacement 9V AC/DC Wall Plugs

    I once opened one of the regulator, analysed the electric parts and did some customizing. Some conclusions: 9-12V input voltage is possible polarity of the plug dosn´t matter since there are rectifier-diods inbuild AC or DC input is possible Current up to 1,5 A is possible (the inbuild Thyristor can handle 1,5Amps and has an automatic shut-off when it´s becoming to hot, that means it will start working again when it has cooled down) There are two versions of the speed-regulator know to me so far. One has a resistor-cascade in a single housing, while the other has single resistors for regulating the speed. On the last one, you can also change resistors to change the power-output on each of the speed-levels, but the max. output will never be higher as approx 9-10V (power drop due to the regulator circuit) Customizing: If you run your trains outside, you can also use a 12V Car battery as power supply for the Regulator, but I would recommend to use an extra fuse than because this batteries can provide a huge ammount of current!!! Also the Thyristor can be replaced by more powerfull samples. I run up to 5 Amps with a modified regulator, but this needs definitely more cooling! So I used an old Computer-cooling device. Runs without trouble on exhibitions on weekends ( two days/ 8 hours, 10 Train-motors and really heavy loads) If you have to buy new power-supply, I will highly recommend to buy one that delivers 1000 mAmp to 1,5 Amp of current! regards BrickMusher
  5. [MOC] NOHAB Mx & My Roundnoses

    Hello, many thanks for your kind words. The ordered parts have arrived, so there are more of this engine/canopy-family coming soon. Unfortunately my computer broke down, so all the photo-posting for this and other threads will have some delay, sorry for that. Hope I am back again next weekend... @Toxic43 I am not sure if I have ever maked a LDD file of this trains, but I will take some pictures when assembeling the new units, so please be patient but stay tuned at the same time, I will post asap. Regards
  6. Fixing ME Models Curved Metal Rails with LEGO

    Yes, of course. Had a short look into my Lego-room, found several components of that lathe. Try to find my XL-Motor in one of the untouched moving-boxes during the next days. And I hope I have a lamp-post leftover. Drilled around 100-150, dont remember exactly.... we will see. Are you only interested in that device, or in a manual about how to install LED in that Streetlamps in general? Could create a own thread with some sort of tutorial if there is demand... just give me a week or two..
  7. Fixing ME Models Curved Metal Rails with LEGO

    Hei Commander Wolf, that, once more, shows me how right it was not to invest into ME rail.... Despite this, I really like your idea of using Lego parts for a technical application (I use a turning-lathe made of technic for drilling my lamp-posts) Anyway, for bending rail-profiles (somewhat bigger than gauge-1) I build a device similar to this: Pic 1 (klick me) Pic 2 (klick me again) Advantange is the adjustable gap between the ballbearings, so nearly every radii is feasible. And, of course, it is very durable. I used normal flat-washers instead of the massive bushings shown under the bearings. Ballbearings are cheap ones from my local RC Model shop (around 1 Euro each), all other parts are available at normal hardware-stores. Total price was somewhat around 20 Euros.... However, interesting report, thaks for sharing! Regards BrickMusher
  8. [MOC] NOHAB Mx & My Roundnoses

    Hello everyone, today I would like so present You my NOHAB Roundnoses. The MOC´s are older, but I took new pictures and finally uploaded them to my flickr-account. Two more are WIP, but I am still waiting for parts. So expect more to come in the next weeks http://NOHAB inspired Roundnose by Brick Musher, auf Flickr http://NOHAB inspired Roundnose by Brick Musher, auf Flickr Please see also the complete album on flickr. Thanks for watching BrickMusher
  9. Holger Matthes' Crocodile colour issue.

    Well, I think the best way to figure out is to ask @HoMa himself?
  10. [LDD MOC] 60198 Preliminary replica

    @ColletArrow @Capparezza Thanks for your feedback, I really like the idea to use Bar 1x3 with clip as pantographs. Think I have never seen before. Indeed they could be somewhat stronger. With all the weight, it randomly flaps down when touching. Might flap as well when the engine runs on a layout, havn´t tried yet. Will have a look to the handrails also, makes things easier. About the tile/slope/ groove issue: You are right, the tile without groove would also do a good job, but I prefer slope curved, 1x2 due to better availabilty.
  11. [LDD MOC] 60198 Preliminary replica

    Preliminary Train [MOC] in new colour-scheme Took me some time, but here it is in the suggested colour-scheme I did also a modified version (indeed I just modified ONE side, so the engine is different on left and right ) I exspect your judgement about wich modification you like, and wich one I should rebuild. So here it is. As always, you will find more pictures on my flickr-account Started with this LDD-render http://NS1600 by Brick Musher, auf Flickr This is how it looks in real life: http://NS1600 MOC by Brick Musher, auf Flickr And here the modified second side: http://NS1600 MOC by Brick Musher, auf Flickr modification: black rail under Front-window, nose shortened one plate, red lights added, 1x1 tiles under front-window changed to round-slope 1x2 (no grooves), changed side-windows (60032 instead of 60592), white step at door instead of red, white grille in middle of body, handrails beside doors, doors with levers, small changes on undercarriage. Let me know what you think about. BrickMusher P.S. Yes, I need a new camera. This is the best result I could get so far. Sorry
  12. 2018 Lego Trains

    Just in theory... IF a clone brand releases a new set before TLC does, can they seek for injunction against TLC???
  13. 2018 Lego Trains

    @JopieK Now it´s you how´s leaking Frankly I havn´t realised the yellow helmet before. Concerning TLC´s politics this year, on one hand I think I can understand why they do so. On the other hand I also think that the problem is home-(china)-made. I wished TLC would communicate more about the reasons. But maybe I am just to naive and it´s not like talking to your best friend. Maybe they want to hide how big (or small?) the problems really are..... And maybe a company has to behave different in communication than a private person. I just wish that one day, they will just tell us why they don´t use doors anymore on passenger trains. Or the train windows. I wish that TLC will tell us one day why they don´t show up with 2HY set at the different fairs anymore And I wish that the green cargo train on the preliminary cover is not the final version (time will show) So you good guys of TLC, knowing now that you read this thread also: I love your product but I am not very pleased by how you handle your (adult)-customers at the moment. I think You wouldn´t lose face if you talk a little more to us AFOL´s! But honestly, the most of us don´t need a train set as long as TLC offers parts that are usable for Train MOC´s. So Train-doors on (even cheaper) friends-sets are ok for me. Train windows on city sets would be also great... the more sets TLC releases during the year, the more possible train-related parts we get.... at this point I get a little bit ambivalent. stumped Yours BrickMusher
  14. 2018 Lego Trains

    I Think it looks more like the NS1200. Please have a look to the front lights and the round fairings around the coupling. But since this engine was constructed by Baldwin, it might be a US design indeed, but adapted for european needs. But I am just counting beans Has anybody realized that the Train windows on the 60198 look somewhat different from all other windows on this boxart? It says "placeholder" on the conductor and the remote, so it will be modified anyway. So I am not absolutely convinced yet that this will be the final engine...
  15. [LDD MOC] 60198 Preliminary replica

    Jep, also love this colour scheme. I replaced some parts due to availability. Think it should be buildable in this variation. Did a quick render in stud.io Full credits to ColletArrow. Try to build it as soon as I get the missing parts (have not erverything in stock ) http://NS1600 by Brick Musher, auf Flickr ( @ColletArrow P.S. Hope my text under flickr-pic is ok for you... otherwise please send me a message with your wishes)