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I ordered a bunch of old grey colors. I am going to fix my white model and mix in old light gray with the new grey. I think I will also look into some of the newer pale colors now available. I used sand blue on my updated Delorean model (need to take photos) and I like it. I think it will work better if people use it with gray x-wings. I did order a bunch of used old white pieces. Not sure what I will get. I want it aged. You did see my V1 flickr model right? The cannons are round. The file uses the LEGO design people like. I cannot figure out how to show it in Studio. The goal is to keep the streamline approach I used here and incorporate other color elements in it. I am glad that I took a ton of photos before I took it apart to build the new one. Looking forward to fixing the ship. Parts were ordered last week. Flickr account

Click Here to Download the Studio file 12-06-19 Final group shot of the Stud.io file The final shape Alternative Nose design originally from Mark Chan's X-wing design. I modded it to fit my ship. His nose is designed to be on a ship half a stud shorter in the tapering. He used brackets not plates to hold his panels. I think it works great on his ship, but feels too bulking on mine. The final file will include this option. Gear box and engine detail Like my first version I wanted to retain the depth inside the ship. I like the fact you see the engine parts and the gearbox. I added some grueling to it to make i look more robust. The pneumatic bar doesn't do anything practical. It helps hide the technique brick in the center of the gears. The display stand If you are like me you probably want to display your X-wing flying in attack mode. I am going to make a custom nameplate for the model. Maybe style it like the UCS models with total parts and such. Just looks great flying above it, doesn't it? What about a white option? Landing gear option 1 (non-retractable) The landing gear I prefer is similar to my v1 design where it connects onto the engine, but does not retract. The real full-size prop used in the moves have thick legs to support the weight. They do not fit inside my ship. I am sure you could hollow out the engine and place something similar inside, but you will lose the detailed undercarriage visible from the middle. I have shared photos of my V1 landing gear in the past so I will only share one picture of it. Landing gear option 2 (retractable) I did, however offer you a design with retractable landing gear by removing 8 parts in the engine and swapping it out with 6 new parts to house it inside the rear engines. Most of you may prefer the retractable option since its more playable. I cannot guarantee it will support the weight without a locking mechanism. I could be wrong. Jerec's design works well and I simply tried to build a similar idea for my model. Its smaller, but effective. I may not like using 45 degree slopes, but they look better than using the curved slopes. You can also see that I used a 4x3 slope on the outside. If they did all their slopes like they did with the 45 degree ones I would be able to maintain the same angle as the top. The front retractable landing gear slips up tot he front of the ship like the films and schematics. I included a 1x6 tile with a turntable top to connect onto the side panels to act like the trap doors are open. As you can see the rear landing gear feels tiny. I removed the 1x6 tile in the front so you can see the bar clip. The 1x tile is shown on the first landing gear option in the above photo. It makes the trap door effect seen in the films. I had to remove a 1x2 technique brick to get the plate inside the space. ___________________________________________________ Flickr (Final Photography) Bricksafe (WIP and Old Desgns) Stud.io (Gallery and download page)

I do everything in Stud.io now. The file will include a stand design and an alternative nose featuring a variation of Mark Chan's work. I like how he designed the nose of his ship and I built one that will snap onto my front nose. Like all my other designs, you can visit my Stud.io gallery. I will be placing all my designs there from now on as a download page. I use Flickr or final physical builds and brick safe for my work in progress and old designs. Check links below. ___________________________________________________ Flickr (Final Photography) Bricksafe (WIP and Old Desgns) Stud.io (Gallery and download page)

I tried to build a workable gearbox and wing support structure from the last post. It just isn't as strong as my other wing design. I took my white model apart and reworked the whole wing configuration and rebuilt the X mechanism because I couldn't figure out how to incorporate engine details inside the wings without stability issues. I returned to my digital file and rebuilt the wings and gearbox based on the doc i built with my parts. I will try to do a nice photo shoot of the white x-wing model while I wait for parts I am going to order to build the gray model. Maybe I will turn the white one into Red 1 or Red 2 and keep it clean. The rendering uses light gray, dark gray, tan, sand blue, dark tan, light bluish gray and dark bluish gray. These help showcase worn effects better. I think I will buy all used parts and maybe they will have teeth marks on them or dents. The following images are highlighting my final design. The structure i built works. Almost as durable as my original structure for Version 1. The ball joints add a huge leap in durability. I think this may be my most durable model. One of the most important factors for me is accuracy. I brought back the Nexus model to show you how close I made the ship to lining up the actual model parts. In order to make the top turn the wings I had to move the round 2x2 tile half a brick back. I think it is close enough. All new interior. Reworked the bottom a bit. I moved the torpedo port back a bit since the last time. I looked up the Rogue 1 x-wing live size prop they brought to the premier and had a slew of great reference. The torpedo bay exit lines up with the canopy. The final shape and she is entirely based on the NEXUS models and Rogue One movie life size replica.

Version 2.0 WIP I have followed many new T-65 designs over the last few years and collected a lot of reference. Jerec's design fixed many of my issues while exploring the gear box. I love how he used hinges to change the taper and straighten it back out so the gearbox fits tightly in the body. Wth this said, i reconstructed many ideas he worked on, but found them to break my initial designs based on the Nexus master models. I usually build the wings open so I could look inside the hinge section and make sure every part is correctly attached. I did not do this morphing his x-wing gear box and support structure. What started out as a simple mod, quickly turned into a beast making it fit my design. I moved so far away I forgot which part was a hinge. Suffice to say, the wings now are sealed shut and I cannot figure out where. I spent my time modeling and now I think its necessary to build the structure and repair the gearbox, wings and find out how durable the main body is. What is different: Overall, the new 2017-2019 parts changed the way my nose is built. Jerec's build slides the nose on. That was something I never thought of doing. I like engines and parts so I wanted to make sure there is enough room inside to build a proper cutaway ability t the structure like my Version 1 model. This was quite difficult figuring out how to build a frame inside the crowded nose, tapering to the cockpit. The final will house stuff similar to version 1 after i fugue out how much frame i need to keep it from collapsing. I mentioned th hinge idea on the body, i got rid of it after I realized i wanted to make the side walls come off for display. I used many of the V1 ideas and kept the shape and length the same. I noticed Jerec's design is shorter and built a front so smooth I knew there was a way to forge the two. The good part about the new design, I could just use my old wing design since it houses in the same place and would be a simple alternative option if i cannot make the new frame stronger. Besides, I really like my engine design and frankly it was quite difficult t build a similar shape and feel with parts turned sideways. I think I am mostly happy with the body. I may go back over the top behind R2. The side panel walls behind him are bothering me. I may go back to my original version where I used 45 Degree slopes. I am sure I can figure out the R2 unit area. First Image: Early work where I incorporated a hinge idea and pock the entire side wall behind R2. This will be an alternative solution if the one I am doing doesn't work out as well as I planned. Second image: Finished solving the nose and main fuselage leading tot he cockpit. You can see my 45 Degree angle slope idea from version 1. R2 is exposed...yikes. This next image gives you an idea how the new ship will look. As you can see, the overall wing structure apparels to be the same as my last one, but it houses a new gear box system and the turbines do not center over the 2x4 slope studs.If only they made these slopes similar to the 1x2 slopes I would be forever grateful. You can also see some of the newer side panels behind the R2 unit. Ion cannons are standard LEGO from version 1. I plan on reusing my custom designs, but figured I would keep this in file for purists. The new gearbox needs work. I have a lot of room inside my mechanism area so I may widen the gap more and thicken up the support inside. If you all have any suggestions. I am all ears.

My build is longer and tries to maintain the original studio model proportions. I am slowly redesigning it now that several newer builds have surfaced. New parts have come out over the last year that I think will help my front fuselage area. I like to have a smooth side panel from cockpit to nose instead of using the tile method. the rest of the build will mostly stay the same as I already did a good job shaping it. I do want to explore a better gear system. I took the ship apart in sections to study it more and see if I can fuse the other design ideas into this build. The cockpit will likely stay the same. I'm mostly disappointed in my front area. Will try to post updates on it soon.

They should make a 5 stud long windscreen version of the one they did with a 3 stud top instead of a 2 stud top. This would work well for most of the other cars in the world. Or have a dropdown area to place a tile on top flush with the windscreen. That idea would make mocs and building much easier to work with like they did with the 4 stud wide windscreen a few years ago. They already made the windscreen 4 plates tall, that would give them plenty of room to have a drop down top to enable those tiles rest inside it. I guess this is an old argument I been in favor for 3 years since they introduced that other windscreen idea. All they need to so is widen the bottom of the whole windscreen, done.

Based on his design this is a side bay which was smaller and shorter than the x-wing bays. When I did my extensive research for my design years ago I found that they had 2 sizes. His design appears to have a 30 stud wide design where you need a 42 to 45 stud wide bay for x-wings. I enjoy your displays.

Do you guys think those are printed windscreen or stickers? The red on the Ferrari will be a great one to use for red vehicles. The Lamborghini one has words on it so it may not be a good one to use on other black cars.

Best to use this one since it's related to the thread.

Have you thought about doing instructions by reverse engineering it in photos? Basically you take a photo each time you take a part off that way you can reassemble it later.

Are you planning on doing a reverse build instruction or at least a few photos showing off how to build the internal structure or s foils.

Another file I will be saving for my revamped x-wing. I may be stealing the side panel idea and somehow incorporate it into my 2.0 model.

that is amazing and great job on capturing the house. I concider3d building the house in a larger scale but for an ideas project this is a perfect size. I love how it fits on the same baseplates as the Ghostbusters firehouse if you exclude the tree.

I built a similar one to his and modeled mine after his original file. I do not have his original file anymore because I overwrote it. I hope this helps. the major difference you may notice is the redesigned roof and engine. Good luck guys. Echo 1

I love the play features you got into the tiny vehicle.

If I can get the x-wing done to my liking I think I'll tackle my falcon idea merging Marshal Banana design with new ucs cockpit. I saw a new picture surface that he already began doing this. I decided to hold off modding my ucs falcon when I saw this photo. I love how all the unique designs and alterations on the forum. I wish the ucs falcon redesigned the ship from the base structure instead of relying on the original idea. For now I'm working on small models and eventually want to do my firehouse now that I have all the pieces. My biggest issue I find is LEGO keeps coming up with awesome part designs that actually make my models better. I will be posting new vehicles in other sections soon.

Jerec posted on the forums here and acknowledged he drew inspirations from a bunch of us. I bought his instructions to figure out what he did differently. Since my gear structure requires a bit of modding and my personal one actually cut a lego piece I think I may try to modify my structure to house a stronger gear system. As for the rest of the ship, I think I may take his side panel idea and try to figure out a way to incorporate his smooth panels into my design. I also love his landing gear solution as well. In general I think the following can merge with my idea to make it more accurate: 1. Merge the side panels together 2. Modify my gear box 3. Incorporate the landing gear idea

Of course we want to see this.

Thanks for this video link. That sure is a nice model.

I have to admit this one makes mine look a bit dated. I see a lot of great solutions and I think I may fuse the two designs together for my next ship. Great job. I may need to build tour ship just to figure out how you solved that fuselage. The next thing I love is your solution to the bottom. I love the fact that you don't have to add or subtract parts to make the landing gear work. I simply gave up on my design.

Go through the whole thing. I offered a link as an update and plenty of instructions on mods done for this x-wing version through the 6 pages. Thanks. For those who may not understand it, are you able to take off the side panel and show them your inside view of it? I Did this for those confused by the instructions.

How stable is it? Is the bottom now a solid piece instead of those frame pieces lowering down to make the center seem taller? Looking at what Marshall did, the bottom appears solid. Looks like you are making it quite strong as well.

Would you please share your modifications to your side panels? I think I know what you did, but if you could do an exposed photo or a photo showing the parts from the inside or back of the side panel. Looks great. I didn't even think of those cannon ideas you did. Please feel free to do a tutorial for people in this thread. I went with a custom design with lots of custom parts, but I think this option will work best for purists. That is a great looking X-wing. I am excited for the new 2018 X-wing LEGO is doing. I cannot wait to use the stickers and parts on my version. I plan on doing a series of x-wings (rogue 1-5).

I pushed down the 2x2 gray plate away from front nose since it holds up, it gives it a bit of a gap, but the top aligns with the side better. The landing gear on the front just attaches to the white bottom plate. The back landing gear fits inside the engines. I would take the 1x1 gray cheese wedge out. You can make a 1x4 red tile fit there and it sorta keeps the sides on. Bottom Gear: Take off the half cylinder and attach the gear as follows. Should work just fine. Front landing gear is attached only using the hinges and white plate. I didn't put a lot of effort into placing the landing gear inside since it was for display only. The side 1x6 tiles are attached with a round hinge top. The side 1x4 tiles. I chose to change them in order to make it Red 5 style. I took the 1x6 red tile out and made it 2 1x4 tiles. What I may do about that gap on the nose you asked about, I may use the new 2x2 lego part 33909 plate 2x2 with reduced knobs, then use a cut down hinge to fill the gap.