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Agree. LEGO owes nobody anything. They never announced the set was cancelled. LEGO creates joy and pushes creativity and imagination. Licensed products are a plus if they feel it's worth the time and effort to develop and reach audiences across the globe. Some succeed, some don't. They are bringing Indiana Jones to a new generation of LEGO enthusiasts to share and enjoy. We should celebrate the fact this product line is coming out. If the internet didn't exist we would have no knowledge that LEGO delayed a product or decided to shift gears. The only way we used to know what was coming out was though the holiday catalogs or commercials. Don't like how they designed the sets? Modify it or create your own. That is the beauty of LEGO. Celebrate the fact that if it were not for Lucasfilm LEGO would have went bankrupt and we would not have the product around to enjoy.

Lots of angry people posting when in fact we should be happy LEGO is offering new and updated sets for a franchise that many children do not know. They gave it to the adults because they can not because they had to. I'll be there day 1 buying multiple sets and modifying the hat. Love the new jacket details look forward to sharing this experience with my teenage son.

Now that LEGO officially announced the sets on their website I want to share the minifig change I wish they did. The hat and shoes. The fedora on the new mold uses a cowboy round top crown and does not sink inward in the center like the original fedora. The pinch is wider apart as well. Since they were creating a mold that probably will be used elsewhere this makes sense, but honestly the money should have been spent ensuring the mold fits the theme it was from. With simple adjustments in photoshop I made a new hat correctly proportioned to something similar to Raiders and Temple. The pinch in Raiders is very tiht and may break or snap on lego molds so I kept it the same distance as the original fedora. The fedora needs to be vertical even with the ribbon. Based on the dimensions of the new hat, I do not know if I could stretch the hat by heating it. May attempt this concept. The shoes could have been done with painting them, not necessarily duel molding. I saw somewhere a person cut off the feet of minifigs and swap other feet on them using heat or ABS cement. Neat concept, doubt its easy to do for LEGO since its lower than the boot area for molding. Would introduce a wold of a difference having shoe duel molds.

With the various reviews posted I think I take back my previous comments about the fedora. They did a generic tapered hat with wide point in front instead of a closer point. The older fedora had a closer center and correct top shape curves. The only problem I had with the original fedora was the angles on the side instead of keeping it straight. The new hat appears to have been made for future Lego use and not specifically for these sets. They must have used the cheap disney brand hat not the movies for reference. The hat has a round top inside the sides like the new figure. This looks bad. https://www.villagehatshop.com/product/all-fedoras/451139-157772/indiana-jones-officially-licensed-wool-felt-fedora-hat.html?utm_content=datafeed&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6rCgBhDVARIsAK1kGPLI4MpQuupyAqOa0r-NK8erykbKTNW4dEb2ceZs3bj9RhukgcMuj3UaAiydEALw_wcB The crown is wrong and too short. I fixed it in photoshop and made a few variations like the Last Crusade and Raiders style hat. The shape of the minifig head makes it too wide. The solution I am happy with was a mixture of ideas from the films that fit the wide minifig head. The only issue is the top of the crown cannot be modified from the new hat because it's not tall enough. The other part of the new hat that isn't correct is how it had a round top instead of it curving in to form the "m" shape. Instead it follows the wider cowboy hat style that doesn't work for him. They basically used the newer cowboy hat and changed the brim. The only way I think the hat could be molded would be heating it and see if the whole thing would stretch vertically and then sand the front and top. Sadly I did a quick fix in photoshop and they could have easily did this for the new hat since they went for a new mold. My only explanation is that they didn't want it to match so they could use it elsewhere.

After seeing the review photos and videos I got to say that fedora is spectacular. The crown running up the sides are straight and no taper until the band is great. The arches at the top of the crown fit the Raiders shape. The hair doesn't bother me as much as it did in the beginning and I love the duel molding that uses a dark brown band. The subtle color used for the button shirt is great. The sets are built with playability in mind so they don't bother me.i do hope the Temple of Doom set will come out since I would love to have an updated Shortround. The ark is the only item I will replace with a custom build.

A little bit of 1000-4000 grit sandpaper could easily fix that hat shape. Blasphemy. If it's duel molded then no issue with sanding it down a bit. The taper should be actually straight down from the crown. It appears that the hat just needs to do that and straighten out the ribbon on the hat as well. As for the hair, if it doesn't have a bunch of texture on it then it would be a simple sanding job as well. I'll test this out over the summer and see if it solves the issue. The shape of the hat has to meet LEGO standards for durability. We need a higher resolution for the printing. I wish they did duel molded legs with brown shoes. I'm excited for this updated figure.

If we ever got Mario minifigs using normal minifig heads then they could reuse the past cmf minifig animal head masks such as the fox or make new molds that cmf collectors would like to have. The mushroom people could have custom mushroom hats that you could easily use with bricks to make plantlife as well. The turtles would be built with similar TMNT shell backpacks etc. I think they made a neat series of megs figures that are east to play with, but they would go much further with the brand in minifig scale. The castle, ships, etc could still work with the figures if they use a similar tech like lego dimensions. That is where they could use chips in there that read with a sound display box or interact with some electronic hub inside plants or a pipe instead of making the figures the electronic device.

The designer interview said that it is hollow inside and can fit a flag pole stem in it. The designer asked other designers if a part like this would be useful eith the curved back vs the square one and agreed that the angle range would make sets easier to design.

That is one option I will try because it still hides the quiver , but doesnt affect the cape This was the solution I did without pressing against the fabric.

Barnes and Noble in Akron Ohio just put out a fresh box of Series 23 and 24 today. I snagged 3 falconer knights, 1 orc, a carrot costume, a turkey costume, and 2 yellow castle knights. I didn't grab more than what I listed above. Happy hunting.

The LEGO store in Cleveland Ohio had a bunch of minifigures on day 1. They numbered several cases to give people full sets and single characters. The one on Crocker Park only had 3 boxes for the store and sold out before I arrived. Even though i was behind about 100 customers in the Beachwood location I managed to snag 6 falconer knights and 7 orcs out of 20 bags. 1 falconer and orc came from the numbered bags.

The page says the images are only stored for 2 hours. I suggest opening up a bricksafe account to store images. They are a great service to put your images of lego creations on it.

I finished the front of the gatehouse. It has changed a lot over the course of the 2 months. I am struggling with the back side of the gatehouse because I want it to be used when opened up in another configuration. The concept is maintain a similar shape of the original set. When you swing open the castle hinges you add on the expansion parts using clips and technic pins. The gatehouse originally was expanded into a 7 studs wide set of towers. Then I made them 11 studs. Once I did 11 studs I began building the dungeon and came up with the inner hallways idea. I then needed to expand the entire thing by 6 studs to make the dungeon line up correctly. This is why the entire thing went to 13 studs wide. The 36 stud wide gatehouse towers over the 28 stud wide set. The gate was too short and I needed a taller one. I moved the drawbridge forward 1 stud and curved it off with the 1x2 round plates which made it slide into the arched area, yet covering almost the entire inner gate. I left the subfloor the same height, but raised the ground level by 4 studs I think. This made the entire tunnel tall enough to fit a horse and knight easily through it with a lance and flag setup connected to the side of the saddle. I then raised the second floor 4 studs to give the towers a taller look. The side walls on the original set were a bit taller than a minifig on the ground level and I felt that they needed to be about 25 ft or higher like real castle walls. So proportionally, I made them about 25 to 30 studs high. With this said, the wall on the left that goes to the living quarters appear shorter, but in reality can be accessed from the second level based on the same level height as the gatehouse like most real castles. I still need to build walking platforms on the walls. I think those will be made from stone. I may move the protruded section with orange roof down a few studs to line up vertically with the door on the ground level. It will give me enough width to make stone platforms. I added the vertical lag designs from the 3in1 castle set. I love the simplicity of them. I may make the dark blue back to normal blue. I like the color contrast, but I think most people associate the bright blue with their flags. I may turn them black. The rocks are an extension of the set. I tried widening the caves and felt they would collapse under the sheer weight of the castle. I literally shoved them to the far edges without much change to the designs. The largest change I wanted to do was get rid of the panel in the front hiding the ballast from the drawbridge. The new drawbridge design has a huge 6 stud wide ballast and is 1 stud longer than the set. I think this will counter the new bridge design. I removed the 8x6 slope and placed 2x4 tiles under the new bridge design. There is just a stud height distance from the bottom of the drawbridge to the tiles. The new rock design feels more natural and I added a structre surrounding the hidden compartments on the right side instead of a tree. Trees were cut down around the castle to prevent invaders from accessing the walls. My revisioned history, The Lion Knights failed as securing the castle and the thriving Black Knights began reconstruction immediately to enclose access points around the caves. No more black bar windows in a prison cell looking into the cave. I The hideout is deeper inside the rock because of the new dungeon cells I added. The new dungeon contains 8 jail cells. There is a jail cell door on both sides for the pit below the drawbridge. They allow soldiers to kill the remaining enemies and access the pit for cleaning out the bodies. In the front of the pit are 2 new jail cells with windows facing the pit. This gives the soldiers another angle to attack the fallen enemies during battle. Another angle of the dungeon and first floor. Based on the various information about gatehouses. Many of the basic uses were dining and storage. The one thing missing from the set were arrow holes. I wanted to make this section a death trap. With this in mind I made 6 murder holes above the gatehouse tunnel. The struggle I have with the other part of the gatehouse I am designing. How to exit the gatehouse. The other side I have began working on is another porticullis. This would line up with the section above and exit the building to the ground level. This would give me a proper gatehouse design. The design would also include a stone stairways that spiral up the two towers. Both sides would have stairs going up from the dungeon designed like those tunnels on the front. I do not want the cells to meet each other. I think that this would give them an advantage point in case time of war and use one side for weapons and extra storage while the other side could be cells. I also debate whether I should redesign the dungeon and make one side cells and the other side partitioned rooms for storage without cell doors. Those holes with the 1x3 arches facing the drawbridge are suppose to act like a cross between murder holes and machicolations. Though they do not sick out from the walls, they funnel rocks or hot liquid onto the enemies attacking the main gate. I felt that they needed to be accessed from the second level. I created a sloped access hole on both sides of the front gatehouse that would shower down on their enemies in those pesky blindspots. The porticullis needed a stronger chain connection in my opinion. Not necessary, just wanted to use those awesome brackets. You can see the nice architectual designs each of those muder holes in the front of the gate make for the ground level. I think the inverted slopes help give the ground level some simple, yet effective design elements to the boring walls. The arches also help give the room a nice design. I know its hard to see but there are 1x6 arches connecting the larger arches near the walls as added design elements. They create a nice cross beam concept above the outer tower walls above the arrow slits. I like the centered arch design that creates a nice long beam to the rear of the room as well. A good connecting point for the arches and shapes the roof. You can also see I added a set of 3 vertical flags in the center room. I think it was quite boring in there and the vertical hanging flags add a nice touch to the room. The weapons racks are able to fit on the outer walls and such surrounding the top floor. I may build a few more for the other part of the gatehouse that needs built. The good part about the rear section for the new gatehouse is the face that I can copy and paste the front part mostly to the rear. The rear will not be as deep as the front, most likely be 9 to 11 studs deep instead of 15. I only need room for the gate and maybe 1 more arrow slit and set of murder holes from the second floor. The interior design is sorta already mapped out. The tower stairs are already finished. I just need to replace the front facing and connect everything. Maybe 3 to 4 hours of work. The gatehouse rear section will not have a door entering the ground level. I basically want to make sure the gatehouse doesn't have too many exits or entrances to the whole thing. You need to access the door on the ground level, go up the stairs to the second level, go across the floor through the 2 doors into the armory room. From there you can go down the stairs to the other tower into the dining room or basement to the dungeon. The second floor of the rear gatehouse will have a door access to the outer curtain wall in the rear. I think this would be the only area you can access that wall facing the harbor. Expanding the castle: The three layouts I keep referring to how it will work. Instead of relying on the castle using 5 wide towers I am using the basis of 11 to 13 towers. And in a few instances 15 studs. The problems I tested are those pesky 5 stud wide towers that use hinges to angle weird with the 1x3 and 1x2 wedge plates. If i double the width i get 10 studs. If I triple I get 15 studs. In order to fit within those parameters I need to make sactifices in some areas to make this idea work. I love that they figured out the flooring to fit these angles and such. But for me to use it I need to work with those concepts. I can use those angles for flooring rotated 90 degrees as well, which will mean I can achieve 7, 9 or 11 studs on the floors. Its a matter of reconfiguring the flooring, but it will work. So I can do 11 studs on 1 side. With this solved already, tested and such I can do many of these design elements you see in the layouts. Layout 1: The enlarged castle enclosed to fit the original set concept. You enter the gatehouse and enter the courtyard containing the barracks or small dining hall. The harbor fits inside the new design. The pier and platform for boats. You enter the arched bridge in the back. Layout 2: The Harbor fortress. You enter the gatehouse from the bottom. There are no barracks for soldiers here. For the tired traveler, you rest in the inn centered in the pier. You can also make port and enter from the pier side. The great hall sits in the rear, connects to the tower that resides the wizard above. The keep is large with a throne room and plenty of beds for the royal family. The dollhouse expands on everything to reveal the massive connecting castle on the lake. Swing open the parts and reconfigure the entire thing. Clips, technic pins and a little moving around pieces then the newly designed castle will be revealed. This will be a nightmare to do. I solved most the connections using plates and trying to solve the layout before building. I think most of it is figured out in studio. Color coded to each section. Hopefully I can get this solved in Studio. I think its about 8 to 10 sets. I won't know for sure how large, but I am thinking a lot of extra parts will be necessary.

Many of the newer forest guardian and viking parts are available on pick a brick. I grabbed 20 of each torso and green hat while supplies last.

good idea. I will take some shots. The gatehouse has gone through many changes, but I keep trying to take those changes and make conscious decisions to make it's construction similar to the set in terms of part placement. I will put together some renders over the weekend.