62Bricks

Get out your saw!

Since LEGO is also planning to merge Bricklink accounts and Lego accounts, I think the two collection features will also be merged.

If anything, I would assume the Technic bricks can withstand more stress from weight over time than regular 1x2 bricks, as the long sides are connected inside by the walls of the pin hole. That makes them less flexible, however, which, may make them more susceptible to crack over time from the clutch stress from studs.

This is one reason I usually recommend to people the best Lego building table has a smooth top and a low rim around the edge to keep parts from sliding off the edges. Removing parts from glued-down plates can be difficult. Also, you pretty much have to commit to the location of your structure when you start, and if you find out you need more room, or want to move it around, you're kind of stuck without re-building it. But maybe the main reason is that studs are not very comfortable to lean on when you're building.

I love his Flickr feed and have been following him for a while. I'm still a purist, but I break that rule vicariously through him. He is usually printing a part to solve a design issue. He likes to make compact, functional models and sometimes needs geometries Lego does not allow. He also is not afraid of using clone brands, especially if they have a unique part.

Hey, that's cool

Not with sides of whole-stud values, no. The ratio of the sides to the hypotenuse is 1 to the square root of 2. The square root of two is an irrational number, meaning it can't be expressed by dividing two integers. To create an isosceles right triangle, you will need to find a technique that allows you to adjust the length of the hypotenuse infinitely. I have used a technique like this, sliding two axles back and forth to the length needed.

I got the package of three with the two small and one medium box. I wanted the largest one, but it was sold out. They are nice looking, but the walls are a 2x brick thick and the bottoms are hollow, so the inside space is quite small. They won't hold much.

goatleg.com is back online, now with stand-alone searches for torsos and legs based on part and decoration colors and color families. Feedback is welcome!

I'll try this, thanks! I sometimes have luck putting the head on a torso and then pulling it to one side slightly as I pull the helmet.

Maybe they wanted to recreate the old figures exactly! I remember those original helmets sometimes being very loose, and they'd spin around the head so the astronaut or knight couldn't see. OR they'd stick really well but the neck hole would be loose - getting a head out of a classic helmet is next to impossible, and probably how 95% of the chin straps got broken.

In the US copyright protection for a work for hire (which the fire logo would be) is 95 years. In the EU it's 70. This design is certainly still under copyright.

The fire image would not be likely to be registered as a trademark. It may be covered by copyright, however, which is entirely different.

It's true there is a filter, but the only other non-Lego brand allowed is Brickarms. It is still against Bricklink rules to sell clone brands. And they are getting rid of Brickarms, too.

Love the data. The spikes in the 70s on System pieces look suspect. $3.31 per piece in 1975? My parents were buying me 300-piece universal sets in the 70s and I'm sure they were not paying $1000 in inflation-adjusted dollars.

You should take a look at the Fair Play guidelines that Lego has had for many years: https://www.lego.com/en-us/legal/notices-and-policies/fair-play/ The short version is that Lego is very welcoming of fan-produced Lego-related content on the internet, they just have some ground rules they ask you to play by. Mainly, they want you to make it very clear that what you are creating is not an official Lego product. You cannot use their brand in a way that might confuse people into thinking your video was made by Lego, for example. There is a disclaimer at that site you can copy and paste into your video description that will let people know.

It is from a Lego clone brand called Best-Lock. Your seller was not careful sorting his inventory!

This yellowing is probably caused by acidity in the paper and glue and is not easily reversible. Although it may be possible, it would probably also dissolve the glue. I agree that these are in such good condition aside from the aging, they look fine as is. I have had some luck with stickers that are darkened from dirt with simply soaking them in water with a little dish soap while they are still on the brick. You can rub the wet surface very lightly - use your fingers - to remove some of the dirt (much of which is often bits of the glue that have seeped around the edges and attracted dirt). Be careful not to rub off the top layer of paper that has the printing on it. Then just let it dry. Paper is pretty resilient.

Actually, I was surprised to find that these parts now ship separate in sets!

An idea for part of the Badger's defensive functions - armored plates that will extend to protect it!

I want to make a solar-powered vehicle that has battery backup. I connected two PF switches to switch between power sources. It's a pretty simple mechanical solution - turning one switch on turns the other one off. If anyone has other ideas, I'm interested in hearing them. One of the design goals is to keep it lightweight so it can be driven directly by the solar cell, so the fewer parts the better.

Second prototype chassis. This one is already disassembled for improvements, but for the sake of documentation: I substituted the energy meter/storage battery for the rechargeable PF battery. The PF switch next to the energy meter switches between the solar cell driving a motor to the rear wheels or charging the storage battery. The storage battery output is then run to an IR switch with two small motors, one of which runs the rear wheels. The other one will power one or more functions. There's a gearbox in the middle (the blue handle) to select whether the rear wheels are driven by the solar cell or the storage battery. So it will have three modes - drive under direct solar power, drive under stored power, or recharge stored power with the solar cell. It is also possible to use stored power while recharging with the solar cell at the same time. This is mainly to get weight and dimensions, but I tried out some functions that will probably make it into the final version. I used a linear actuator beneath the solar cell so it can be tilted to the optimum angle to the sun. The survival technique of the Solar Badger is not to outrun or outfight other vehicles. But that doesn't mean it won't have some tricks up its sleeves!

It's funny because back when there was just the larger older version and they weren't so common, I only had one and I always knew where it was. Now I have several and I'm always trying to find one...

You can order them from the Education site. The set I got comes with a storage battery and meter, too (and some real wind vanes!). Or you can buy the cell separately. It can be connected directly to a PF motor. I got one earlier this year and have been looking for an excuse to try it out. The storage/meter device is OK. It has a maximum storage of 100J, which can run out pretty quickly. And there is no way to regulate the output with the meter itself. You can switch directions, but not step the output. But you can run it through an IR switch and control the output with that.

The rat rod cab is top notch.