Gonkius

Thanks you all. This build is more or less 1:1 scale, so the complete bridge would get _large_! It started with the earpiece and I then realized that it needed to be placed somewhere. And yes, the clean and straight lines in TOS are very suitable to build in lego, see my scene with Christopher Pike in wheelchair from September.

Melting the face...? I could've added some custom sticker, but I prefer not. The flashing light is orange for sure. Thanks for all comments. Any ideas how to use any of the other constraction heads for Star Trek?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XY2w8KX4E_4

The Menagerie Part I Stardate: 3012.4 First air date: 17 Nov 1966 Kirk and Spock meet Pike on Starbase 11, first time after his accident... Now he's unable to move and communicates only using the flashing light on his wheelchair. One flash: Yes, two flashes: No... no - NO!!! This doesn't stop Spock in performing his duty to his former commander, including mutiny...

Ahhh... sorry, sometimes I cannot read... The truck base is a 2L liftarm with 4 round plates, the transparent slope and with tooth are not connected to the base at all.

Its a Technic disc 2958 placed on some technic connectors. I must warn if you're going to build this: The rotating front gear is not yet available in yellow. But you can always build my nanoscale version of the same set:

Good luck to have a ratchet mechanism during wind-up - the clock will probably stop immediately during wind-up due to the friction everywhere. I ended up with a differential mechanism instead to not loose torque during wind-up. If you need inspiration look into my automatic self-winding, and self-adjusting, clock. If you like to find solutions of your own, don't look... https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/113864-moc-fully-automatic-clock/

Thanks. I should mention the hidden sausage inside the wasp body to get the bent shape...

Wasp vs Bumblebee by gonkius, on Flickr Wasp vs Bumblebee by gonkius, on Flickr

The challenge was to build the most important SW scenes in a 32x32 format - this is not one of them. As an extra challenge I decided to build it using the bricks I had in stock without placing any extra BL-orders. This lead to some limitations, especially concerning the mountain and waterfall as you all can see, but also in the selection of minifigure parts. (I was expecting comments about Padmes utility belt...) Anakin's arm is done using a piece of pneumatic tube.

This is my entry in the Swebrick contest to build Star Wars scenes in the 32x32 format. When the other are focusing on laser fights and spaceships, I looked for a more unusual scene: Anakin and Padme spends time at the meadow in Lake Country, episode II. Padme is not very amused when Anakin rides the Shaak. Anakin rides the Shaak by gonkius, on Flickr Anakin rides the Shaak by gonkius, on Flickr

This kinetic sculpture started after I designed the ball structure using 12 BWE yellow gear sections. Then I added more and more rotating objects inside and outside of the ball. There are five objects in total that rotates with individual rotations, the two smallest have their rotation off-axis to make it as complicated as possible... The smallest object even has internal gears to get an extra moving feature. Lighting is done using Arduino controlled LEDs inside the base. UV-LED illuminates the flourescent colours inside the objects. There are two PF-motors in the base controlled from an IR-receiver and a train controller. Check out the Youtube video. Ice sphere design by: aeh5040

Thanks for the feedback! I'd say the position of the nacells are quite as they should when looking on Enterprise-D. All other versions of Enterprise however have the nacells higher. Small impulse drives can be nice touch. Hopefully I'll go on for a much larger model, this was done as a "feasibility study" to learn the shapes better. Elliptical saucer for one thing, couldn't do this at this scale. Plan to use some of the techniques I used on the Tintin rocket to get the smooth surfaces needed.

Forcing a pendulum, by using an electrognet, to a frequency that is even the slightest off its natural frequency will need larger forces than you expect, to get any amlitude at all, just a warning from my side. Everyone has got their own threshold what is acceptable modifications to LEGO pieces. My simple rule is that any modification that cannot be undone is not accepted, I would never convert a motor to an electromagnet by replacing the inside as I read in another thread, but that's me, you are free to think otherwise. If you in any case will have an electrical timebase in some way, you could always build a stepper motor, similar what you find in quartz watches.