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    St Louis, USA (ex Melbourne, Australia)
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    MO, USA (ex AU)
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  1. 8865 was the first Lego Super Car that I bought when I was younger, so this set holds a special place in my heart too. I must have built and rebuilt it about 100 times. I'm impressed by your version, and I'm amazed that you could fit all of those features into it, and it looks great! Nice work
  2. Congratulations on getting all of the details to work, and your video explains them very well. I'm sure kids would love seeing your hamster running around in its wheel.
  3. Great GBC. It is always nice to see an original GBC module.
  4. @Lego_GBC_NL - I'm glad that you liked my GBC module, and even more glad that you took the time to recreate it yourself. LDraw/MLCAD file: I find that LDraw files can either be optimized for building steps, or for showing functions, but it is difficult to do both at once. In this case I created the LDraw file to show the functions, but I'm happy that you could follow them and build the complete GBC module yourself. Balls: I am actually using official Lego Soccer Balls in mine, which is why yours work just fine too. I'm using the ones that came with the Friends sets recently, so they are orange with the soccer ball pattern and the small hole in them. Timing: I love differentials. Everywhere where I thought that there might need to be some adjustment for timing, I made things easily adjustable so that there isn't a need to do anything tricky like rotating a gear by one tooth, etc. The differential can take a little while to get in the correct position, but once it is there the worm gear holds it in place nicely so that the timing remains as it should. Automatic Motor Shutoff and Alarm System: Everyone seems to really like this feature. Cranks – pulleys – strings – rubber bands: As you can imagine, the creation of a GBC module goes through a lot of iterations to get things working 'just right'. Some things that were implemented in previous versions are no longer needed in later versions as other small changes have been made since then. The rubber bands are an example of this. Before I had all the pulley system finalized, the rubber bands were needed, but in the final version they may no longer be needed at all. I just kept them there because I had already tied knots in the string, and in my version they do stretch just a tiny little bit. I must admit that the string and the rubber bands (and the clear plastic cup that I used in the video) are the only non-official Lego pieces that I used. I have a spool of string that I bought for only a few dollars that is very close to the Lego thin string, but I didn't realize that my GBC module would have trouble with the medium thickness Lego string. I'm glad that you realized what was happening and got that working. Nice trick with the round plates 1x1 (part #4073) to hold the string in place. I use that same trick with official Lego sets that use string because it makes disassembly easier. For example, if there is a hook, I thread the string though the hole, but then use the 1x1 round plate attached to the hook to pinch the string and hold it in place. Spanner Wrench / Screwdriver (part #4006): During development I tried many different pieces here. I found the Spanner Wrench / Screwdriver to work best for me in an earlier iteration, and just left it like that from that point forward. If you found that the 3L Axle works better and holds in place better, that is great, and I'll have to try that on mine too. Really, for this piece it was just a matter of 'whatever works'. The only reason that this whole section is included is because I found that sometimes the balls would shoot out of the hopper too quickly, so I had to add this extra 'timing' mechanism to ensure the balls make it onto the 'ladder' at the correct time. The horizontal yellow bars near the hopper are also there for the same reason - to guide the balls if they shoot out too quickly. 1x9 Black Technic Liftarm: I must admit that this was me being a bit lazy. That 1x9 Liftarm 'should' be connected at the bottom for better stability, and that was the original plan, but I was trying to get this GBC module finished in time to show at a public expo, and it seemed to work ok without it being connected at the bottom, so I just left it as it was. This piece is also buried deep in the model, so it is difficult to modify quickly. The LDraw file is faithful to the physical model that I made. You could either: connect it in some way at the bottom; replace it with a 1x5 Liftarm as you suggested; or even a 1x11 Liftarm and modify the axle at the bottom; or leave it as it is (which is what I did). Once again, thank you for taking the time to rebuild my GBC module, taking the time to appreciate all of the little details that went into making it, and taking the time to provide your review/feedback/video. It always feels good to see others recreating my models. PS. Since you gave me credit for the model and provided links, I'm happy for you to keep your video on YouTube.
  5. These are some tips that work for me: Try to do as much as you can in-camera first. Use a seamless backdrop. Depending on the size of the model, this can sometimes be as simple as using a piece of white flexible poster paper that you prop up against a wall. As others have mentioned, try to light the backdrop more than the model. Try having your model backlit a little bit. This will typically force you to expose the photo for a bit longer to get the model exposed correctly, and that will also expose the background more, getting it closer to white. Use a tripod and manual settings on your camera. Use a small aperture to maximize the depth-of-field so that the entire model is in sharp focus (this will help when post-processing). Use a low ISO value to reduce noise in the darker areas. I try not to use the Auto White Balance feature if I'm taking a series of photos (which I usually am). Use the Custom White Balance feature if needed. If you are shooting RAW, this can also be changed during post-processing. Did I mention to use a tripod...? With a small aperture and low ISO, your exposure times (shutter speeds) are likely to be long unless you have really bright lights/strobes/flashes, so a tripod is a must. Also use a remote shutter release or use the timer feature on your camera to reduce camera movement when taking the photo. At the moment I am using Paint.net (free) as my photo editor, but I have also used Photoshop in a similar way in the past. Select the background using the Magic Wand tool. If your subject is in sharp focus, this should be easy enough. Also select any shadows that are on the background. Use the Levels Adjustment to change the Gamma and Input/Output Levels until the pixels directly around your model are pure white, while still keeping the shadows. Invert the selection so that you have the model selected. Use the Levels Adjustment to get the model looking the way that you want. You could also use the Contrast/Hue/Saturation/Brightness Adjustments if needed. Select any remaining areas of the background that are not pure white, and use the Paint Bucket tool to make them pure white. Resize the image to the final size (remembering that the maximum size allowed on the Eurobricks forum is 1024x768). Apply some sharpening if needed. Modify any of the above steps as needed to get the result that you are after. Some samples:
  6. I have created an Off-Road version of this Monster Truck: I took off the 'Tumbler' tires, and put the original balloon tires back on. I also changed the drive ratio: I removed the differential, and am now using a worm gear and 24-tooth gear to drive the rear wheels.
  7. Nice mechanism, and nice build overall. I agree with Rohan that smaller leg movements might help make things smoother. I know that you mentioned that you don't have too many Technic parts, but perhaps you could replace the Wedge Belt Wheel/Pulley (in the video version - part 4185) / Liftarm 1 x 2 Thick with Pin Hole and Axle Hole (in the LDD images - part 60483), with this piece if you have some: Engine Crankshaft - part 2853 This would give you a half stud offset instead of a full stud.
  8. Thanks Cornersruns, however in this case I didn't want to use any filler or thick glue as the crack in the Pneumatic Pump was so small. I wanted to rely upon capillary action to draw some of the thin Super Glue into the crack.
  9. Last week Lego sent me a replacement pump, so I have tried to fix the old faulty pump. Hopefully the tiny drop of Super Glue will be a long-term solution. Thanks to everyone on Eurobricks and YouTube that provided comments and suggestions.
  10. Nice work Rohan (and team). It looks like most modules were running fairly smoothly, with only a few hiccups. Sorry I couldn't be there to see it in person.
  11. As your first MOC since your darkages, this is great. I'm not an expert, but most excavators that I've seen have the arm centered, and the cab to the side, which would help with keeping everything balanced. Is it possible to cover up the middle section of the arm with some panels? The rest of the excavator is nicely covered up, so this looks a little out-of-place to me. There is a Preview button in the toolbar when creating a new topic or replying to a topic - it is the last icon/button on the right.
  12. When troubleshooting pneumatics it is usually a matter of isolating elements to work out which elements work and which ones don't. Having the manometer helps a lot too. I submitted a request to Lego's Broken Piece Service, but I just got an automated message back saying that the part is no longer available, and my request was cancelled. I have now submitted an email to Lego (that hopefully a person will read and action) asking if I can get a replacement or a substitution for a similar part. And now I wait again...
  13. Thanks everyone for your feedback and suggestions. I decided to get out my macro lens and a close-up filter for my camera to see if I could take a picture showing the hole/crack. Keep in mind that the width of the pneumatic pump is only 7.9mm (0.31"), so the crack is really tiny, but still allows air to leak. I know that I've already shown the leak in the video in my initial post, but another way that I tested for the leak was to pressurize the system and hold the pump up to my ear. The air coming out can clearly be felt on my ear lobe and ear drum (obviously don't do this with high pressure or high volumes or air). I have contacted Lego's Broken Pieces service for a replacement. Their website says that they don't have this piece in stock and they may offer an alternative, but they should respond within a few days. In the comments of my YouTube video I got the following suggestions: tape - I don't think that tape will be able to handle the pressure of Lego Pneumatics (up to about 45psi). hot glue - I love hot glue, but it isn't the best at sticking smooth surfaces together. It doesn't react with materials, but rather the hot glue seeps into fibers of materials and, once cooled, friction holds it in place. superglue - This is usually a thin liquid, so it will seep into the crack using capillary action (as allanp mentioned). It is not a 'filler', but the crack that I have is so small that I think it will work ok. two-part epoxy - This is a lot thicker than superglue and can be used as a 'filler', but I don't think that it will seep into the crack too well. Maybe I could use some superglue and, once that is cured, I could add a thin layer of two-part epoxy over the top of it. I'll wait until I hear back from Lego before doing anything else.
  14. Dog

    Nice build. Very Compact considering the number of features, and this little guy has a lot of character. The only thing that bothers me is the IR Receiver that has been added on to the side and is sticking out a bit.
  15. Hi everyone I need some help to troubleshoot an issue that I'm having with a Pneumatic Pump. It has a leak, but I don't think that it is the piston or the one-way valve. I think that there may be a tiny hole in the black casing. Please watch this short (2 min) video for details: Has anyone experienced a similar problem, or have a solution? I was thinking that I could use some glue (hot glue / super glue / two-part epoxy) to block the hole, but I didn't want it to seep in and block the air flow completely. I've had this pump for a few years, but I think this is the first time that I have actually used it. If this is a manufacturing defect, do you think Lego would replace it? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.