deraven

I've had Palace Cinema since release and the stickers look as good now as the day it was assembled. Hasn't been in direct sunlight or anything like that, which I'm sure could affect the longevity of the stickers, but it hasn't had any special storage considerations either, just sitting and displayed with other modulars. This really isn't an issue other than with the batches of stickers in the past that have been known to be a problem; that was a production quality issue. Likewise, the stickers on things like some of the Galaxy Squad sets that actually had some play time (with 6-10 year olds) still look fine. If I were you and you're talking about sets made recently and not vintage stuff (with paper or coated-paper stickers), I wouldn't be concerned about it. The vinyl stickers hold up fine and I, like others, apply them for display sets or where it really makes a difference in appearance, but not when the set is mostly purchased for parts (and in the past rarely applied the stickers at all, when they were worse about STAMPs)

Lovely! Really captures the classic feel, but with some modern flourishes. And I always like the small, separate bases and the flexibility that can provide, plus it works nicely with the idea of a river & that raft you made. Also, nice job with the foliage- simple but well-placed and effective for the look but still providing play access. Great build!

I think Jetro just means that articles you were quoting the pics from can be found in the magazine... but I don't think they contain anything about how the image style was created. Again, it's the 2 renders just as you would normally do them (one of the complete/exterior of the model, and the other with everything removed except for the interior components you want to show and rendered from the same angle with the same settings as the first one) - both with a white background. Then, as mocbuild101 noted, you can use any image editing software you'd like, and his suggestion of GIMP is a good one. If the software supports layers, simply open the full model image as one layer, and the component image as the another, then adjust the transparency of the layers until it has the look you want, then save as a regular jpg or png image file.

Welcome to EB, G0d0fninjas12! Happy building!

I think it's much simpler than you're assuming. I believe it's just a render of the completed model and then the internal components that are going to be shown, and then the final render of the completed model is just reduced to ~30% transparency and the component render dropped on top. That is, no special settings or processing for the first render, just the completed image file from the first render faded out and used as the background for the composite image.

Definitely a terrifying abomination to behold... but I love it. Great functions and incorporation into the odd but satisfying design of the robot. I especially like the outrigger stabilizers in crane mode. Awesome build!

Welcome to EB, Angeou! Nice to have you here with us - it'll be interesting to see if your profession in electrical engineering shows through in your Lego work. Happy building!

Beautiful work on the landscape/foliage and colors overall. And, that roof! Really great build!

Fantastic! Such great lighting and atmosphere to begin with, and then so many great details throughout. Great roof/rafter work, and that fireplace with the statue above and the microfigs down at the hearth (and well-lit fire) definitely caught my eye. Great build!

Well, if it's space and in zero-g, then I think you should find a way to build it on the bottom of that existing shelf and really maximize your space usage!

That's a fun project, and well conceived and designed. Supported!

Welcome to EB, GLX! There's a lot of fun you've got packed onto that small shelf. Happy building!

Welcome to EB, coinoperator! Sounds like you have an interesting profession, and an interesting path into Lego as well. As you noted, a Lego pinball machine won't be as good as the real thing, but there are some pretty excellent versions out there nonetheless. Here's a simple mechanical one as well as one that has a lot of electronics and programming: https://www.brothers-brick.com/2016/02/26/functioning-lego-pinball-machine-bounces-you-from-the-shire-to-mordor-video-interview/ https://www.brothers-brick.com/2018/05/09/working-lego-pinball-machine-built-from-15000-bricks-features-benny-in-all-his-classic-space-glory-exclusive-feature/ Happy building!

Very nice - so many wonderful details throughout! The carpeted stairs are definitely the star, and the "woodwork" looks great and the use of the profile bricks to provide some carving detail really makes it pop and sells the scale. The lights on the wall are also lovely. Great color choices overall, too!

I have also seen a couple plates that have a "twist" in them, like two opposite corners on the diagonal are higher than the other 2 when laying flat. As you noted, ks6349, it didn't effect the build much once enough other pieces were attached, but it was noticeable and definitely not just a gentle bow on a long piece. I've only seen a couple of those in a random set here and there, so highly doubtful they're fake and more likely just Lego getting too close to the line when it comes to optimizing the amount of plastic used and mold time, etc.; in other words, a quality issue.

Outstanding! Supported!

Definitely challenging at this scale! I would suggest a brown minifig hand, with the wrist pin pointed upward for the head/neck and the hand representing the body/legs. Nothing else really comes to my mind that would be remotely the right shape or size...

Spectacular! Really fun all-around, but that exterior with the roof/boat/sign and especially the "fish" font using those newer modified tiles is delightful.

For being a fairly simple studs-up build, I think it's lovely and charming. The waterfall is really nice, and I like the steps in the cliff as well, oh, and the simple cave, too. The beach/shoreline is also a nice touch. NPU with the gate into the village and the tooth element for the spire on the meeting hall. From a quick glance it all looks so simple, but on closer inspection there are all sorts of fun little details to enjoy. Well done!

Welcome to EB, Nidingsbane! That's a nice throwback/tribute MOC. I like all the activity inside with the raiding party returning, the little tree growing on a rock in the water, and especially that broken-down roof on the tower section. Fun build!

Yes, doubling up on those at each "knee" would be the most obvious, but still probably not enough strength through the whole range of motion. I would ask, however, what the goal here is. Just poseability, or something else? If you just need to be able to move the joints for display and it doesn't need to be quickly manipulated (like if you were actually playing out a battle), I'm sure something could be done with gears to allow the join to be moved but also maintain the position rigidly such as a worm gear configuration.

My Own Creation (result of the builder's own creativity and efforts vs. building a set from instructions). This may help with terminology in general: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/1188-the-eb-glossary/

Yes, this is what I was getting at. I mean, whatever you enjoy is fine, but I don't understand sorting a set before putting it together. I just use a couple of trays and dump in the parts from each bag as I go. A little basic sorting like larger pieces or a huge number of one color/type either into a separate tray or a corner of a larger one, but beyond that it's just as fast to search the tray for a part that you know is there vs. taking the time to sort everything out beforehand. For actual storage of sorted parts in a general inventory, there's no issue of depth vs. width because there's not real digging for a part since that's the point of having the parts sorted in the first place. Of course, if you're just starting out and you've just sorted "similar" parts together or by color or something, I understand that... but then I'd use larger bins to begin with as well until you're ready to do finer sorting. For my trays (when building sets or working parts when MOCing), I use the inner cardboard trays from previous Lego sets, food service trays, or the wider and more shallow plastic food storage bins and those seem to work well.

I guess it would help to know what kind/size of box you're talking about, but I would agree in general: those are good for storing sorted parts, but not for doing the actual sorting / building a large set. I also use small to medium size food containers for sorting or separating bags for a larger set, and that works well for that purpose.

That's beautiful! Both the color and profile of that Modulex works wonderfully for that application. I think I may just break out mine and start looking at what colors I have enough of to add some of that detail to my town. Like RogerSmith, I'd like to see some more detail about how it's connected. Doesn't look too stable, though that's not a huge issue here and the wall sections are probably sturdy enough themselves to essentially float at each level as 1 unit? Great build!