Zerobricks

Just manual. I'd suggest you female CV joint if you need more torque.

Yes, you can use an 8 tooth gear or the normal female CV joint.

I think contacting Lego's official technical support would be be more appropriate.

Inetresting idea indeed. Though I have a feeling a design like this wouldn't work the best on rough terrain.

Yes, I was referring to the screwed version of the hub

I think he is referring to this: https://racingbrick.com/2021/07/lego-has-a-mysterious-new-rechargeable-battery/ And this: https://www.sgs.com/en/news/2018/05/safeguards-07818-new-zealand-new-voluntary-safety-policy

While all of the above listed functions sound nice, I'm expecting a model similar to the 42125. 1:10 scale with basic suspension and a fake engine with 50+ stickers.

Might be a bump, but got myself a 51515, because I wanted to learn to do some robotics along with the general building. So far it's been very fun and can't wait to progress enough to build and program my own creations.

I can send you a few of mines, since I don't use them anymore.

From my experience testing the tyres on my mini trophy truck, the balloon version has a much better traction. The model is able to acelerate faster, climb better and pull higher G forces (over 1g) when cornering with balloon ones. Back on topic, I'm pleasantly surprised Lego used 6 shock absorbers, they could easily just use 2 to keep the whole model upright like in the Wrangler.

Good idea, it would be useful for the trapezoid ones too.

Lookingat the video from RacingBrick, I am certain the pieces on the spoiler are new extension liftarms, since their curvature matches the panels too good for a 1L beam. They were the last extension piece missing in the panel setup after all.

I don't think it needs any shock absorbers. Just a free floating body which is pushed up by the wheels on top of it.

Those are waaaay too long for such a model. Any shocks used in this model are soft 6,5 stud long ones.

Here you go: Each hub is attached with the 6L suspension arm which is sandwiched between 3 dog bones. This way there's nothing than slide apart and the half-axles can withstand a very high torque.

Looks really agressive. More details would be nice. I'd also suggest you use the new, stronger CV joints which came in 42099. They do get worn out a bit, but have yet to break any, even when propelling a 4+ kg heavy car to over 35 km/h.

As Jim and others pointed out, there's a lot of new pieces and recolors in white and teal, so I have a feeling the upcoming H2 sets will be in those colors. I think the supercar will be white, not teal, since teal is a bit too close to the Sian's lime and from what I've seen TLG is trying to have the supercars in as unique and as different colors as possible.

Are those teal 1x4 half beams I see there? That's a very specific recolor, which IMO is for an upcoming H2 set.

The parameters are sent to the FW which in turn controls the motor, it has to be done at FW level, as Bluetooth communication would be too slow to control the servo motor. You can find the API here: https://buwizz.com/BuWizz_3.0_API_3.6_web.pdf Page 11 should be relavant to you. Testing is open for iOS too, please have a go too. The link is here.

Danil, please contact the support and I'm pretty sure we can come to some kind of an agreement. Please also put your reference there, so we know who you are. Regarding beta testing, we needed a way to test the firmware update on a vast variety of different devices and setups. There's no other way to get constructive feedback and colaborate with our users than a test version. The guide will be updated accordingly once the full app is released.

Unfortunately I don't have any time or motivation currently for realizing this model, I hope I find some soon though...

Nice mechanism, though I think having springs on one side only would be enough.

I think this model uses a very similar suspension setup as the wrangler. All 3 axles are pendular only, with the front one using shock absorbers to keep the model leveled. The rear ones have differentials which drive the fake 2 cylinder engine.

Thank you for the positive feedback. Regarding the a cracked sounds, I would recommend you to limit the steering centering power, to as low as possible, but still strong enough to steer your model's wheels fully. I highly advise against using 100% power, since it can overload the PU motor's protection and disable it during the calibration, we will add a warning at the full app release. We also got feedback from the beta testing and the response is quite positive, most people had no issues updating theit BuWizz 3.0's firmware. Regarding the BuWizz shutdown issue, we will introduce firmware based adjustable current limiters in the next firmware update which should limit the motor currents before it triggers the battery cut off. A quick reminder. The new firmware update is for BuWizz 3.0 only, but that did not stop some people from trying it on their BuWizz 2.0 bricks unsuccessfully - we will correct that in the full ap release. I would also like to go over the new calibration steering factors quickly, for those who want to fine tune the steering; Centering power - the power used by the motor during the center calibration, I would recommend you to limit the steering centering power to as low as possible, but still strong enough to steer your model's wheels fully. Too high can cause the motor to overheat and turn off during centering. Centering PWM time - the time the module spends steeering the wheels in each direction, if the time is too low the motor may not reach the final position, longer times are recommended for models with large gearing or rack lengths. There are 3 presets available for center steering, light is for small models like 42109 and 42125, medium is for models like 42099 and 42129 and heavy is for the 42114. You can also change the presets by pressing the custom button at your own risk. Here is a quick summary of the steering coefficients and their effects: Kp - this is the main proportional influence of the steering controller, it tells the steering with what kind of a gain it should work. Having it low reduces the steering response, having it too high can cause it to oscilate. Ki - This is the integral influelnce of the controller, I usually leave it at 0.01, having it too high can cause oscillation. Kd - This is the derative influence of the controller, default recommended setting is -1.0, but it can be decreased for heavy models where the steering system is slower. outLP - this is an output low pass filter which can be used to slow the system down in order to prevent oscillations, but it's not needed and set to 0 in most cases. D_LP - This is an additional derative low pass filter which can be used if needed, but I recommend you leave it at 0 by default. DeadBandOut - this factor sets a deadpoint band for the servo output, having it too low may cause the servo to constantly try to adjust the position, having it too high will cause the steering to be less accurate. DeadBandOutBoost - This is the boost the servo motor receives to move the steering. Some boost is recommended to overcome the initial friction and mass acceleration, but having it too high may cause oscilations. I recommend 5 - 20. Liml limits the integral part of the controller, I recommend it having at default setting of 20. LimOut is the the current limiter of the servo, reducing it will reduce the current consumption of the motor but may reduce the torque of the steering system. Reference rate limit affects the speed of the entire servo steering system. I recommend it set higher for lighter models and lower for heavier models. And here are the factors which are in my opinion the most important to fine tune your model's center steering (you can leave the others at default level): Kp - gain of the steering response DeadbandOut - steering accuracy and deadband DeadBandBoost - boost to get steering system moving ReferenceLimit - speed of the steering system Regarding the feedback by Danil... It would be very useful if you could state what issues you are actually experiencing so that we can help you.

Awesome, might be useful to post this on the digital tool subforum, so it could be added to LDD and Studio.