Selander
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Everything posted by Selander
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Thanks Holger ! I'll seriously consider buying R104 and R88.
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This might be a stupid question: -does one (1) bag/package of ME curves equals to a turn of 90deg or 180deg ?
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Thanks to all positive comments ! @ust60: I will try to take a photo of V100 and T44 together and post on Flickr. Thanks for your kind comments about the T44, much appreciated ! @Commander Wolf: Yeah PF components are generally "bulky", so compromises in design may be necessary. I sometimes try to put IR receiver inside drivers cabin (behind "glass") and that works normally fine. In the case of V100 the body is filled with elements needed for the SNOT, plus not the least all PF, so the only possible motorisation was the std PF train motor. I agree that it lacks some torque, and in my opinion it is too fast. Regarding scaling it is accurately scaled. The prototype is roughly 3m wide and just over 12m long, so 8wide and L=32studs (buffers not counted) is more or less spot on. A 6wide model would correspond to L=24studs following the same ratio between Width:Length.
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Most strange train I have ever seen :-) Looks more like some kind of carousel in a Tivoli.
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After seeing the excellent V100 by Lok24, I made my own version which is similar but with some different detailing like: -Hood is 6w+1plate => just 1,6mm (1/2 plate) offset each side. -Cab base 7L => top 6L with TrClear red windscreen from Santa Fe. -Shorter roof. -All hand rails are c/c 16mm (2studs). -All steps/ladders are within or just under 8w. -Rear smoke stack consists of a 11477, to partly cover the PF connector which protrudes 1stud out of cabin due to the shorter cabin. Comments are welcome as usual.
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+1. Great job !
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Great to see that the content of this "old" thread is still useful !
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Great collection of MOC:s and original sets !!
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Thanks everyone for your kind words ! Much appreciated !! @marook: Yes it measures 6x28studs, so it is a relatively compact build. @UrbanErwin: No carriages planned for the moment.....but let's wait and see....
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This looks very realistic. My favorite is the grey/dkred version.
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Hello *Thomas*, Hmm part list...not really.... But I could mail you more pictures and provide some help/explanations to you. Send me a message via EB and we'll try to work something out.
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MOC: Swedish T44 PF loco with remote decoupling
Selander replied to Selander's topic in LEGO Train Tech
Thanks !! IMHO it only requires basic technic lego skills so I am pretty sure you would succeed if giving it a try. Study my picture and especially those from Baard. See earlier thread here "Decoupler bogie" and his Flickr. Also if you send a PM to me, I can take and send you a photo from a handwritten technical sketch I made , with a basic part list. I am certain it will give you a good idea how it is made, but beware it is NOT a tutorial, and still require some trial-and-error from your side. -
Thanks for your comments, yes there are already some Re 4/4 similarities and the design could be updated to be a closer replica. For the moment it is a mix of influences. @3797: Also thanks for your side update proposal, which would need a bigger redesign since you don't respect the current height of my model. Would be easier to put in two layers of 2877 with studs up. In fact I tried that during my experimental phase, but choose to stay with the smooth sides. I'll reconsider it though.
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Hi everyone, This is a MOC I recently built which is inspired by a mix of Swedish electric locomotives but with typical German or Swiss color scheme. It is not motorized on pictures. Some new elements from Mini Cooper have been used in front&rear end which allows a smooth transission from 8w to 7w in the top front section. Feel free to comment.
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Wheel arrangement is probably designed like Emerald Night with a floating bogie in front and floating wheels rear, which can travel sideways and hence makes it possible to take curves and points. The renders has two Medium(M) motors, not L-motors, right ? Nice lines on the loco !!
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I would assume wheels 1 & 4 are sliding sideways in some sort of groove. (Wheels 2&3 are the normal PF train engine) At least that's the way I'd try to do it. Impressive loco BTW !!! But it must look almost ridiculous in a 180deg std curve !(?) This is clearly a design which fits better with large radius curves.
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Tunnel friendliness and many other aspects could be improved by swapping PF IR receiver to a SBrick ! Furthermore SBrick software allows for remote control of points while driving your train. -This possible "upgrade" is another plus for PF.
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+1. I think there are several good reasons why I've made the same: -Cheaper tracks. -Several motors to choose from. -Realistic power trains with all kinds of configurations like B, C, Co-Co..etc. -Choose a gearing to optimise speed vs torque. (e g strong and slow shunters) I agree PF battery box is bulky, but since also having migrated to building 8wide locomotives it's not a show stopper. Also, fully charged (or new) batteries gives enough running time IMHO.
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Hello everybody, here are my latest creations, two (almost similar) Swedish T44 Diesel locomotives. Base measures 8wide x L32studs, and body contains: -A medium PF motor in the rear compartment, that powers a decoupling system in rear boggie. -IR receiver in drivers cab. -Std PF battery box in the front compartment. -A std PF train motor takes care of propulsion. One channel on PF controller is used for decoupling, and the other channel is used for running the PF train motor. Coulor scheme is the former standard of SJ (Swedish state railways) as: Orange / White stripe / DkBlue top. T44 is (still) the most common freight diesel locomotive in Sweden and was originally built in 123 units. I made two units with same mechanics but slightly different detailing. I made several different designs for remote decoupling, but this one is more or less borrowed from Baard, which in turn was inspired by my previous attempts. The mini LA (linear actuator) moves the magnet in and out, thus separating the loco magnet from wagon magnet for a remote controlled shunting. Any comments are welcome as usual.
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Nice looking 8-wide shunter. 8wide is really the right way to go if you strive for a realistic look. Seeing your three locomotives makes me think you are (heavily) inspired by the work of Bricktrix (Carl Greatrix).
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I really like the look of your loco ! The smooth snot:ed front/ends are a clever design, it took me some minutes to identify the bricks needed to build it. Is IR reception still OK, despite having receivers hidden under grilles ? You have done a great job to pack in all "electronics", yet keeping an interesting and beautiful exteriour design - well done !
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I put two XL motors in a green 6wide locomotive !! How? By using snotted panels mounted sideways to cover each motor. Kindly browse my Flickr link below and you'll find a picture of it.
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Looks really impressive. Great design - very true to the prototype. Do you use standard PF train motor together with large wheels ? I couldn't find any specific info about motors used, but it looks very fast on your video. And it looks to narrow to fit one of the bigger PF motors + gearing (?)
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It's a relatively simple MOD to do, so that each "half" is individually controlled. I think you may find a tutorial in older topics. In essence you need to open the cover (from underneath) and cut the plastic tongue, that controls the switching, in two halves.
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Stunning build !! Will you display this in Uppsala ?