Selander

Brake.... Not break. Nice model optically, but I doubt it'll follow other rolling stock in turns.... with a static chassis 22studs lenght, I believe you cannot attach fixed magnet couplings in each end. One way to fix it is to design couplings so they can rotate.

These small, yet powered, shunters are amongst my favorite builds. Nice integration job, LT12V !!

Great looking loco. I believe you refer to this Greatrix design: http://www.flickr.co...rix/3866875337/ .

Amazing truck and buildings. Love the nice realistic colorscheme you've chosen.

Nice to see how you will manage this project, and thanks for reference to my 7760PF. A few comments: -To increase traction you can indeed make a groove and attach o-rings, but a more simple solution, that I've successfully tried, is to attach "slices" of bicycle inner tube onto BBB medium wheels. See links: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=79509 http://www.flickr.co...N03/8482105218/ -As for the chassis you've built with a horizontal M-motor and PF-battery "on top" - I believe it will be hard to respect the physical dimensions of reinstein's model. To fit his design, I would go for a vertically placed M- or L-motor like used for my DB 363 in this link: http://www.flickr.com/photos/45034697@N03/7863142824/ I will follow the developments of your project with great interest.

E103 is one of my favorite locos and I think you have made a beautiful design. The curved shapes are really tricky to replicate accurately. Also I like the tan-dkred color scheme - same as I have on my 103 ;-)

Great looking loco, Carl. I've been waiting to see how you'd tackle the challenge of using a PF based motorization, and the result is certainly spectacular. I fear it must be (too) fast when using a train motor plus wheels greater than std...??

Hello Henrik, I am glad and flattered that my linear actuator based onboard remote decoupling system inspired you. I try to follow any developments on this subject as I find it particulary interesting, so I am happy to see that you are working on it too. Also I like to say that even if your solution is not 100% identical to mine, I "would not protest" if you had mentioned your source of inspiration in your original post. (like you did with Camelboy)

As Swede I appreciate the nice locomotive design. Also I like onboard remote decoupling and have built a similar design that you may have seen?

That looks awesome - and it prooved to work !! Another piece in place in your big jigsaw puzzle ;-)

Sweet..!! The only spring brick I consider feasible is a 2605c01. Check it on BL.

Another amazing loco !!!

May I suggest the "camel hump" ;-)

My solution is an onboard decoupler, see below topic. http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=78802 If you want to separate standard lego train magnets, keep in mind that a relatively high force is needed, so a trackside solution need to be fairly robust and have a sufficient stroke to separate waggons enough. If you would design another kind of coupling, e g like having some sort of "hook-into-hole-princip", I imagine it could be easier to have a trackside solution and "simply" lift the hook mechanically to separate the coupling. In any case, with a trackside solution you are obliged to always do the decoupling at a certain spot in your layout. The advantage with an onboard decoupler is that you can use it anywhere you prefer in your layout. As always there are pros and cons.....

Absolutly amazing functionality, Esben.

Great to see a Finnish diesel !! I've got a Finnish VR class SR1 in red-white livery in my Flickr account.

As Duq pointed out you can study pictures in my Flickr account. The mechanic parts are more or less identical to my Swedish V5 shunters. Also I have some pictures of motorization concepts for PF L-motor, incl use of BBB medium wheels like in this DB class V60.

+1. Couldn't agree more.

No not really - the train shed is a WIP and I just put it there to create a nice background for the photographing. If you browse my Flickr photos you will however find some photos of a train station and platform area which is in the foreground.

Thanks for all kind comments. I made a small change to longer (1x4) white tiles with headlights - is it better ?

Another creation in my new 8wide series of locomotives, this time a German shunter DB class V60 (BR 363). It is in 8wide and equipped with large PF-motor, battery box and IR-receiver in rear. Technically it is quite similar to my recently presented Swedish V5 shunters, except this has got BBB medium wheels. Custom connecting rods are on my wish list (Zephyr, send me some samples ) Comments welcome as usual. EDIT: i changed to longer white tiles 1x4 - is it better ? (I hope so...) And the prototype (real locomotive) :

Yepp, sorry I missed your comment. Your design is estetically more appealing than M_longers !

Looks really interesting, if I am not mistaken some guys in a Polish lug built a 6wide truck with similar overall dimensions and features like yours some time ago. Edit: Here is a link: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=400306

Looks really great as usual with your designs ;-) Very realistic feel.

Have you seen the video from underneath at flickr? I also use a PF medium motor right above the actuator. Motor has a gearing driving a second gear that you can spot in the video.(2x same gear) The drivers cab is filled with a PP3 battery and the rear contains the IR receiver. Normally the actuator is out at full stroke, it stops there automatically. When you want to start decoupling simply start the motor and retract the actuator full stroke inwards or until you see that magnets are enough separated. I think a stroke of approx 4 studs is needed. The big actuator I use gives a sufficient stroke to do the job.