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Selander

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by Selander

  1. Selander
    Thanks. Yes offset is just 0,8mm or 1/4 plate thickness. It is built by first putting a technic brick 2,5 studs (20mm) inside door opening. A tile 2*2 is placed at bottom. The door itself is built on a plate 2*2 with "door bricks" out, and eg brick 87087 inside. A plate is attached between 87087 and technical brick. -> 16+3,2mm = 19,2mm. Consequently a 0,8mm offset is achieved. Hope you follow me?
  2. Selander
    This is a typical small 2axle industrial locomotive which can (could ) be seen shunting waggons in bigger industrial areas in Sweden. It's 7wide, 18studs long and has a 9v train motor.
  3. Selander
    Simply CATastrophic design
  4. Selander
    This is a quality build. Nice building techniques and smooth transition from 6 to 7wide near the windscreen. I'll use this as a source of inspiration for a couple of future projects of mine. Tenderlok's suggestion for brickbuilt windscreen was equally interesting, but all respect that you keep your own design.
  5. Selander
    Everything is just briliant. ✌?
  6. Selander
    I will try adding washers as proposed. And perhaps testing more bearings, in case of inconsistent quality, plus add some lubricant. All in all, it's an interesting solution, so it's worth fiddling a little more before drawing any definite conclusions.
  7. Selander
    I got my lot of 50pcs ball bearings the other day, delivery was correct (no PCB or so...). I started to try them this afternoon. Difference in diameter is just 0,2mm, still it seems difficult to push them in, so I choose to increase hole diam in technic brick to also be 5,0mm. Now it was easy to squeeze them to place. So far so good. When disassembling train wheel sets, I discovered that some train wheels have a "stop" which does not allow the steel axle to go fully through them, while others let the axle protrude a little and locks wheels with a click sound. The later is a must I think, to make this mod work. Finally I put together two sets of axles and wheels to build a bogie. One ran perfect with a minimum of friction, while the other axle had some friction. I have not put on any lubricant yet, but still I was expecting a better result based on the praise read in previous posts. My conclusions so far: - Good potential for making special designs train chassis. Acceptable, but not perfect, performance. - May need some adjustments during installation, and probably some tweaking to run smoothly after assembly.
  8. Selander
    Stunning !!! Very nice that you choose to build a Swedish engine, that's rather uncommon.
  9. Selander
    Fantastic!! This is indeed the correct scale, but I too was immediately worried by the heavy weight. Do you plan to run it with only 9v motors? Have you seen Haddock51:s heavy haul ore train? With a rebuilt power source he is able to run 8-10pcs of 9v motors at the same time.
  10. Selander
    I like BR class 04, and you've made a good job with your version. Windows 60592 in dark green are not particulary expensive..... so I don't understand your choice for black doors.
  11. Selander
    Thanks, loco is not powered but it does have a brickbuilt "engine" which is visible through the doors. But I forgot to take a shot of that.....
  12. Selander
    Thanks for all kind words. A picture of the undercarriage can be found in my Flickr.
  13. Selander
    I put three yellow sticker stripes in front of the loco. One is in the bottom of the grille and the other two on each 87087 black brick. Other "stripes" are made from yellow plates.
  14. Selander
    DkGreen Shunter 7w. Design has borrowed some genes from a BR Class 04 locomotive, but mostly what I found pleasing for the eye. It has a DkRed chassis with 3axles where the mid axle is floating to ensure a frictionless ride. Base 7w / Cab 6 2/3w / Hood 5wide, and L=18studs. So overall dimensions are similar to a 4563 loco. It is not powered and for the moment I think I leave it like that. Motorisation may be put in a following wagon (?). More pictures may be found in my Flickr account.
  15. Selander
    Great wagons!! Love that color scheme. Do you make your own window stickers ?
  16. Selander
    Polyethylene hose/tube is the better choice !! Nylon is a generally harder material and PUR will be too soft and more rubber-like. So, I'd avoid those two group of materials.
  17. Selander
    It is a fantastic build !!!
  18. Selander
    Thanks. Pantographs are Steinkopf:s design, which I have used a few years now. Except for this pantograph build I added the "porcelain insulators" (technic bush 1/2) at the two base bars to look like those on real E69:s.
  19. Selander
    Thanks all for your kind comments. I counted the build to approx 350 parts which was much more than I first thought.....
  20. Selander
    I have almost completely migrated to PF powered models, but still build som "old" 9Volt powered models. When building small shunter yard locomotives, it certainly helps to only have a 9V motor, and to be able to focus on detailing more than hiding bulky PF components. My design is partly based on E69:s built by PolLUG and LatLUG. Base is 7wide with 6wide hoods and 6 2/3 studs cabin, and overall length just 16studs (buffers not counted). With extensive use of SNOT and various offsets, I think the look is quite prototypical. Feel free to comment. (if I manage to upload photos.....)
  21. Selander
    Great job, I too like the engine most.
  22. Selander
    Yeah you are really late I made an updated version a long time ago (2012 more exact). . http://flic.kr/p/bYroyq . .
  23. Selander
    Now again.... You are a perpetum mobile in the lego steam locomotive world. Great work, as usual.
  24. Selander
    Nice addition to your impressive collection!!!
  25. Selander
    Freight shed with that DkOrange roof is my favorite. Well done!
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