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Andy Glascott

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by Andy Glascott

  1. Andy Glascott
    Interesting one from TLG. https://www.lego.com/en-gb/product/high-speed-train-40518
  2. Andy Glascott
    Ok, so right now it’s tomorrow in Europe but still today here in the US so will it be European tomorrow or American tomorrow?
  3. Andy Glascott
    @XG BC, yes, that’s the one, thank you.
  4. Andy Glascott
    @Axle This is how I've done a 2-wide recessed door. It's basically about having an upright bar on the door and one inside the loco/coach and then using the appropriate part(s) to connect them. I've used this before, as well as the sand coloured piece in these pics, which I couldn't find on Bricklink. Mechanism by andyglascott, on Flickr The missing 1x1 plate is key to allowing the arm to move far enough for the door to open. It may not be necessary if you use a different combination of parts. Inside of door by andyglascott, on Flickr Inside of the door, I've used a 1x2 plate with bar for these. Closed by andyglascott, on Flickr Door closed, and the missing 1x1 plate isn't all that noticeable, particularly when the train is moving! Above by andyglascott, on Flickr And a view from above of the door closed. Hope these help, feel free to ask if you need more.
  5. Andy Glascott
    That does make sense alright. I have some 2 wide doors that open fairly smoothly, I’ll get some pictures later to show you the mechanism I’ve used.
  6. Andy Glascott
    This is wonderful to see, and a beautiful build. I grew up in Dublin, with a lot of family connections in Cork and have vague ideas one day of modeling some of the abandoned features from there.… Opening doors are something I always try and include, how easily do these open? While they might be out of proportion to the originals, they add a lot to the coaches.
  7. Andy Glascott
    Welcome aboard, always great to see another 12v layout, and that is a huge loop!
  8. Andy Glascott
    I can't remember the exact diameter, can check later, but racing bike inner tubes fit perfectly.
  9. Andy Glascott
    If by rims you mean the tires on the motor, I use bicycle inner tube cut to size, it works brilliantly and is dirt cheap for the quantity you can get out of it.
  10. Andy Glascott
    12v may indeed have been a European thing but this European brought a significant amount to the US when he moved and then bought up most of the straight 12v track that was available on Bricklink at the time….. So far I haven’t lost enough of those pesky screws to need to replace them, but that day will come….
  11. Andy Glascott
    I think it’s wonderful! Love the extras, such as the waterfall and the smaller tunnels that make it a lot more than a plain mountain. The viewing windows are a great idea, I’ll be doing that on a future layout. My only quibble would be that it might be a bit steep, but that may be just the appearance in the pics and with no other layout around it.
  12. Andy Glascott
    Could you build it in say 10 sections that went together very easily rather than all the pieces?
  13. Andy Glascott
    They’re both brilliant! You should set the second one up at a show on a separate siding with the controller accessible to the public along with a sign saying “please do not touch” and watch reactions.
  14. Andy Glascott
    Here you go. The gap on the left is closed on the right using a half length straight. I know they're out there, probably in both metal and plastic, I'm not sure off the top of my head where though. I'm sure others can advise. 9v Parallel Tracks
  15. Andy Glascott
    If you are ok with not having switches connecting the two loops then yes, it’s very possible, but that does limit your options. I have a feeling it may be possible with half length straights etc, will have a play on Bluebrick later and see what I can come up with.
  16. Andy Glascott
    I've seen posts showing a pneumatic system but can't remember if it was here or elsewhere.
  17. Andy Glascott
    I use a thin knife blade to widen the connector a little - simply push it gently into the connector from the end. I’ll post a picture later. EC061B10-842B-4ADD-8471-3D3B14B0C119 by andyglascott, on Flickr Edit - photo added
  18. Andy Glascott
    There’s a full list of what’s in the works here, including a motor.
  19. Andy Glascott
    This is excellent @Hod Carrier. As an Irishman, seeing CIE in the post title immediately conjured up images of black and orange, but no, you created a wonderful model of this unique beast. I’d only ever read one or two article on it, and seen a few black and white photos, but this really brings it to life. Thank you for sharing it, it’s not that often we see locos on here from my old home turf. Ahem.
  20. Andy Glascott
    It looks like Powered Up motor is 2 studs shorter than the original, so it should fit ok, you might need to modify the wheel locations a bit thought. I have several 12v transforms that are approaching 40 years old and wok fine, though that is no guarantee for yours. You can also connect a regular model train controller to the Lego tracks, just make sure the output is 12v dc.
  21. Andy Glascott
    This is fabulous!
  22. Andy Glascott
    If I don’t run my trains for a a week or two they do that bunny hop thing, which I think is probably more to do with dust on the track than on the pickups, so I try and remember to run them at least weekly, which is easier when I’m not in the middle of building a layout... I’m assuming you cleaned the track and pickups, but if you didn’t, use isopropyl alcohol and cotton wool, works a treat.
  23. Andy Glascott
    Makes a lot of sense, though I’m curious about names for the three blue/proposed sizes, XS, XXS and Tiny?
  24. Andy Glascott
    Agreed, which is particularly frustrating given I have 4.5v and 12v wires going back 35 to 40 years that are still in great condition. That said, I still have and run 9v. At least with PuP and PF there are no wires to wear out....
  25. Andy Glascott
    If my memory serves me right from reading a lot of 12vposts on here, if the Lego power unit stops working it can be replaced with pretty much any of the regular model train controllers that give a 12v DC output, probably a lot cheaper than replacing the original, and certainly what I intend to do when one of my 3 remaining ones gives up the ghost.
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