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Andy Glascott

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by Andy Glascott

  1. I had a similar set up on my last layout. I was using round 2x2 bricks for the pillars and found there were places directly under some of the sleepers/ties that I could use a 2x2 turntable to realign the studs that were directly under the sleepers. It doesn’t work under every one, so extra support is needed (I was using 9v track which is quite sturdy anyway, if you’re using the blue track in your illustration you’ll need quite a bit of extra support under it). If I remember rightly I had pillars under the first, middle and last sleepers.
  2. I can't answer your first 2 questions, but I have done 3, using a standard 12v signal set up. I think I posted a thread about it but haven't found it, if I do, I'll link to it, but here's what I did. I use the 12v signal switch to operate it all and run a standard 12v wire to the signal light brick. I then run a 12v wire from the switch to where the isolation mechanism needs to be. I've taken one of the 2x2 plates off one end of a short 9v wire (may or may not be this exact one) and replaced it with a 12v plug to create an adaptor between the two systems and connected the other end to a standard 9v track contacts wire. To create the section of track that is cut off from the power supply I simply insert a small piece of paper between 2 sections of track and repeat a few track pieces later. The 9v contacts wire is then attached so that the 2 contacts are on the same side of the track but either side of one of the pieces of paper. I have both 12v and 9v loops on my layout, so power the switch unit from a 12v transformer, but that only powers the light. The 9v track current comes from a 9v controller and runs through the switch completely separate to the 12v supply so when the switch is red the 12v lights the light and the 9v is cut, when it's green both are open. I'm guessing, as my electronics knowledge is limited, that if you just use a 12v switch to cut the power off it wouldn't need a power supply of its own. Overall, it works wonderfully, just takes a little bit of adjusting to get the pieces of paper in the right places to stop a train where you want it to stop.
  3. If only I had a red 12v motor.....
  4. When I lived in Ireland, then England, I used methylated spirits, now in the US I use 91% isopropyl alcohol.
  5. For years I've used alcohol to clean my track, both12v and 9v. TLG themselves recommended it back in the 12v era, and I've seen no adverse affects, either on the tracks or motors. I simply splash it onto cotton wool and rub.
  6. Could you add a PF to 9v converter cable and use it to power a track loop? Such as this set up: Power box > IR receiver > PF/9v converter > track connector? I can see 2 uses at least, first as a set it and leave it booster for large loops that need extra power and second it could allow operators at shows to be away from the control area and still hit the emergency stop.
  7. Very impressive, and particularly nice to see an Irish train (the orange and black set) as there aren’t many around.
  8. Oh wow. As others have said, this is simply stunning. I’m not sure what else to say.
  9. Thank you, it's definitely a move for the better, I'll be a lot closer to my local LUG You're welcome. The hardest part is getting the curved platform to line up with the regular straight edges of a normal Lego build....
  10. I recently finished a station with 2 curved platforms - quite a challenge! Here's an in-progress image: WIP Station (DSC09747) by andyglascott, on Flickr @Feng-huang0296 the main piece I used was this wedge - https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=14181#T=S&O={"iconly":0} - with hinges connecting them which gave a nice uniform edge and curve for the inside platform. I have some work in progress pics somewhere, I can post them if I find them. The "finished" product looked like this: DSC00261 by andyglascott, on Flickr I never got the insides finished as I have recently changed jobs and will be moving, so have started the layout apart...
  11. That will work fine, and the extra bit on the curved rail you show is supposed to reduce interference with other devices such as radios etc but I've never had a problem with interference whether I used those rails or not.
  12. Love it. A fun read after a long day at work. Thanks for sharing. If you have a motorized coach/wagon somewhere you could put this in front and make it “work”
  13. There’s this one by @AlmightyArjen that might give you a few ideas
  14. That's a wonderful build @Hod Carrier. Very like the real thing, both in the way it looks and wobbles on the track.
  15. I think it could sell if TLG took out the train element and had 2 road loading areas, it would be very easy to then MOD it to fit a railway layout. They would certainly sell one to me.
  16. That is fantastic, a great building for any layout.
  17. This whole project is wonderful to follow, a very unusual theme to build (I haven’t seen anything like it before anyway). Keep up the good work.
  18. Thank you. Part count - no idea beyond 20,000+ green 2x2 bricks in the mountains... I still want to add more trees, develop the park in front of Assemby Square and other bits and pieces. There's no more space for modular unless I add more space, which my wife has suggested
  19. That’s very impressive, I love the use of the 9v motor as drivers.
  20. That's been happening for a while
  21. That’s a very good spot @sed6! My method of earning Lego money is youth director at a church, the cross was part of a mentoring program I was part of.
  22. Sadly, no is the correct answer, the wiring is just too much (my guess is there is 70+ metres of wire to control the switches etc). I can reach every part of the layout directly by hand, no part of it is more than 3 base plates from the middle or any one side. You’re welcome
  23. Thanks y'all. @Capparezza I can assure you there was more than one can of coke moving around the table during the build According to Bluebrick, the track count is: 187 straight 12v 94 curve 12v 1 crossing 12v 6 points/switches 12v (4L & 2R) 116 straight 9v 32 curve 9v 4 points/switches 9v (2L & 2R) @peterab Thankfully the cat no longer jumps up on the table....
  24. Hi everyone, I've been mainly lurking and commenting occasionally these last couple of years because I've been busy building my latest layout, and rather than post WIP pictures as it went along I've been taking stills to put together into a time lapse video of the whole build. Here's a photo of the layout as it stands. Whole Layout (DSC09786) by andyglascott, on Flickr The video is on Youtube. Building started in December 2016 and for the first 8 months or so was fairly quick, then I got to the point of relying on monthly Bricklink orders. There is still a bit of work to do, particularly on the station, which as you can see is in a corner.... WIP Station (DSC09747) by andyglascott, on Flickr As well as waiting for monthly Bricklink orders, progress has also slowed as the birth of our first approaches next month, so I figured even though things aren't finished, if I don't post this now it might take a while to get to a "finished" stage! The top level of the layout is 9v, with just 2 trains on it, the bottom is 12v with 7 trains, 3 of which can run at any time (there are three 12v loops on the bottom). Enjoy. Andy
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