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Jerac

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by Jerac

  1. Hmm. Please take a photo of your stand. There is no way parts quality can have any effect on the bracket, since it is very securely attached on both ends. You can completely ignore the hinge brick and not have it and it should still work. The front part of the vertical section should rest on the bracket's part under the studs. They are a little bit cut in here, but in reality this fits well enough.
  2. and if you know your imperial vessels, you can also spot some details indicating that this is an Imperial II star destroyer.
  3. The hinge there is not meant to keep the stand upright, it is the 1x2-1x2 bracket's role. The hinge is just for preventing sideways motion. Could you please take few photos of the stand?
  4. what exactly is the problem? The stand should be pretty much completely solid.
  5. Nice! I love seeing mods to my ships, and TIE mods are rare! Most people prefer those pesky rebel scum fighters.... Will you be very angry if I borrow one or two things for incoming update? :D
  6. The ship rests only about 5% of its weight on front leg: (this weighs only one rear leg, so there's 1.4 additional weight in the back). Also with the 1x4 plates added in v84 the load is passed through angled plates and the skip right to the ship's lower frame, so flimsy-looking droid arm is not doing anything in regard to weight transfer. Even if it had to, 120 grams of force is not much :)
  7. First mods :D Looking good!
  8. Yes. This is what the 45-degree plate clips rest on.
  9. Please ask Brickvault for an update, perhaps there's some technical issue or something. I apologize I can't help with that!
  10. As far as I know v84 was sent to everyone, just checked. Please check your e-mail, possibly spam folder? If not send me a PM. Most of the fixes were to the instructions themselves, some clarifications and minor adjustments here and there. Changelist: - wedge belt wheel in pdf part list had wrong part id - some 1x1 plates were incorrectly rotated in the engines - step 939 had diagram showing 1x1 corner 2-stud piece, while it is a 1-stud piece - a hose parts list in step 1048 incorrectly had parts list showing (for this step it should be disabled entirely) - two plates near front landing gear were missing - front right opening panel (with gun rack) had additional hinge top which caused the doors not to be able to open fully
  11. Yeah it might lean a bit to the front. That said, did you receive v84 update? It fixes one issue with front landing gear which can cause it to sink too deep. Basically two 1x4 plates need to be added. Lightning - yes, the levers are supposed to stay put. You slide them inward by about a stud and then have to pull them out. And you need to do it with quite a lot of force, there's a lot of friction there. As for the doors, well, I can't see anything wrong there either. If more people will report issues with that I'll just remove them. This is a non-critical detail. Instead of photobucket try imgur; works like a charm for me and you can just ctrl+v a a link and it will automatically embed here.
  12. Hmm, regarding the door pieces, the angle should not matter. You are attaching them to a circle after all. You can check if they can be attached to the bottom of any 2xN plate. If they can, then your 4x4 tile is faulty. If not - the door pieces. Also they have to be pushed in quite strongly; this is not an "official" connection. Btw can you link your ramp piece photo in a way that I can see it in full resolution? It is too small for me right now to detect any irregularities in the tiles' bottoms. And I'd also need a photo of the doors' handles.
  13. Sorry, I didn't notice them! Alright so: - Yes, the lights are supposed to be on when sliders are pushed in. Unfortunately, those light bricks are notorious for having issues. If the rear one is acting up you're lucky, since this one is easier to remove. Try doing so, unscrewing it, cleaning everything inside and installing again. There's not really much place where the sliders can got in terms of misalignment. - Could be, though I never encountered this. Can you show close up photos of the doors handles and the ramp piece? Maybe I can spot something off.
  14. Looking good! So glad you like it. You can fold the 1x1 tiles on the turbines' fronts way more inside, the edge will be nicier. Something like here:
  15. It will have a stand. Each TIE will now come with a stand, after an update pass.
  16. TF update is already done, and I am now working on the interceptor. They will be released together. As for wings length - both tips and back parts are too short. Other dimensions and angles are about right. I am using SW Squadrons 3d models as reference; I believe there won't be anything better available ever. I am working on that.
  17. I can't stop laughing at this, in a good way! I mean, I am so used to seeing AT-AT on long skinny legs, somewhat like a cat on snow, and now that's a cat lying on the ground with its legs tucked under the body :D At the same time, this vehicle simply makes sense and is genuinely nice!
  18. Hmm. It won't work seamlessly: The pieces you have are on the top, original is at the bottom. I marked the connection piece to the ship with pink. You can do this: But it will make the cockpit piece to slightly protrude : You could, I guess, fix it by putting a layer of plates here: The nose will be slightly too long but should be nice enough. A much more advanced option would be shortening the section behind the cockpit by one of the 1x3 arches, but I'd need to ponder about this for a while since it is not a trival extension/removal anymore.
  19. Now this is an unusual choice for a model to make! Stormtroopers are absolutely genius, but the rest of the model does not lag behind! Exo force arms. https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=53989#T=P
  20. I don't have a proper photo now, but: This allows the crew to be seated as normal.
  21. No, sorry. I don't have space to keep large MOCs or sets assembled. Plus the Slave1 had so many cool pieces it didn't end up assembled for long :D There are two sliding levers, each activating a pair of lights. The red ends are exposed in the cargo hold and can be pushed and pulled to turn the lights on and off. And yeah, definitely do test the lights before installing. They can be removed for service but it is a pain. Better to ensure they work perfectly during the build.
  22. Yes. Very much. It is just under the round brick. That said, you can use a standard 1x2 plate instead and there will be a hole there, but not a big one.
  23. It is already optimized towards affordable guts: You can take it a bit further but I doubt gain would be more than 10% of total price at this point. Interior furnishing is very sparse so you can at best save some tiles (and only some because this has some tiles as structural components :D)
  24. No problem! There's no getting around the fact the prices are going to rise and one day $1k might be the "cheap option"... of all the things, this one is not my fault tho! :D
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