Jerac
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Everything posted by Jerac
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You need to actively put all super-expensive sellers on your dislike list so they don't get suggested. There are many sellers who have everything in stock but for absurd prices (like .50$ for a single 1x2 plate in common color) and their stores end up high on the list. Then another thing you can do is to go through the parts list and uncheck everything you already have in your collection, because the highest component of the price is actually the lot count. If you can trim just 50 positions from the 250 position list, you will greatly reduce amount of the shops required, and most likely the price will get lower by far more than 20%. Ultimately though, the more popular a MOC is the more expensive their parts will be, due to increased demand. I do all I can to limit expensive pieces, but some are unavoidable and mistakes happen (like picking a more expensive jumper variant).
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This is looking super good! Would you have anything against using it in an update for the design?
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Thanks guys! Yeah, fenders gave me most headaches here. There is so much happening there. It should have a bulge, should have a continuous line from bumper to front edge of the roof, should have a recess for "frunk", should be gently sloping inwards near the bumper, should have turning wheels - AND it should also have flared fenders, which ALSO need not to be exactly round. Yeah that was nice challenge. -
I rarely do vehicles in lego, but a Countach was on my list for long enough to eventually make it to the top. The version I picked was 1985 LP5000 Quattrovalvole, because I had a poster of this exact variant and to me, it is *the* Countach. The model features opening doors, front trunk (frunk?), engine cover and proper trunk: ...and an interior: The metal die-cast model I had had no carburator covers for some reason, and indeed it seems some cars are like that. Because this is an incredibly photogenic detail I opted to do it like this too: Steering uses so-called "vritual axle" mechanism, which was inspired from newest UCS Batmobile. The movement range is low, but it works. Steering is routed through the center tunnel and you insert a knob into the differential area to use it. You can store the knob in the trunk, making it one of few model LEGO cars having an actual tool in its trunk! Instructions are available at brickvault.toys - though, it is the MOC aspect I wish to share with you the most. Since I rarely build model cars, please tell me if you spot anything which can be fixed or made better. There is one particular area which gave me A LOT of headache... Thanks in advance!
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Spain, but not sure which city right now.
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UCS Mon Calamari Star Cruiser "CONFIDENCE" (MOC)
Jerac replied to Kommander's topic in LEGO Star Wars
I absolutely love the hull shape. Especially the bottom curves, I imagine start trek enterprise-like passing shots will look marvelous. That said, I also liked offcolored details and hatches from this very first photo: If the hatches are too bright, maybe do them in DBG too? Anyway, if you could incorporate some of these details, it would be even better. Congrats on the build! -
I hope! Two years after mine it should be better, after all! :D Thats the best thing in lego. Few new pieces and entire new way of building stuff emerges. I do have problem with some of the gaps buuuut this is an interesting new direction which is worth exploring. Good job!
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I'd consider removing few of the tiles on the 3x12 wings, especially nearing the center area, to break up the striped texture a little bit. It still looks fantastic anyway and this is a minor issue. Overall, this is the best looking MF I've seen so far.
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I didn't scale to any "official data", as my experience tells me most of these values are outright wrong. For example: https://www.starwars.com/databank/a-wing-fighter A-Wing's listed length is 9.6 meters. Someone did research on this already. If we consider average pilot height to be 1.75meters, then the ship would be... just 4.5 meters long. It is very rough estimate, but even if we are really far off and have 50% error, this still gives us up to 6 meters in length. You can safely ignore all official data regarding Star Wars starship sizes. That said, I scale the ships to available pieces, most often cockpit canopies or other areas which would be hard to get right without specialized pieces (for example y-wing nacelle domes). If Y-Wing was scaled to the same scale as the X-Wing, it would be bigger than the UCS Y-wing, at least according to what I could see in the movies.
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Is it just me or all these fraud sellers are also selling lighting kits? Maybe this is literally one person?
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Proportions. The x1 has 9-"long" ball while standard TIE has 8-"long", as it looked better. This in turn allowed me to make better gun & cockpit canopy mounting. But yes, I can't say I am fond of the original design anymore. Sadly, updating an existing design is a complicated process so it got stuck, two times already...
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Well I started it, but floating castles are just more cool. I will eventually get back to it though, don't worry ;)
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Floating castle with motors and lights.
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Very nice! Shame they got so little on-screen time. I'd try curved 2x2 slopes on the sides of engines, or maybe even using very old 3x6x3 engine blocks for engines, to get more curvature?
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Very little. This was not built with matching the 75181 set's parts in mind; construction philosophy is different between these. Cockpit, nacelle dome pieces, few random plates and small pieces and that's about it.
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No, thankfully v9 is only for clarifications in the instructions, so the build did not change between v8 and v9. Sorry for confusion! Btw, yellow stickers look great... :D
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We can easily see how the first page of this board has plenty of old topics which rarely if ever go out of it. This is because many new posts are added solely because someone building a MOC with instructions requires help. I've been thinking about this for some time because I am partially responsible for the issue. My X-Wing refuses to "fade" not because it is a great MOC, but because its forum lifespan is extended by the people building it. It feels good to see your creation on the top all the time, but it gets old and makes it harder for other people to gather feedback for their creations. If you do not see this as an issue then there is no action to be don, case closed ;) If you do though, I might have an idea - create a new subforum for all maintenance topics. How would it work: - A MOC with downloadable or purchasable instructions is posted to the forums normally just like now. - For each MOC with downloadable or purchasable instructions, a topic for support is created in the new subforum, and is linked to from MOC's presentation. - For existing MOCs with downloadable or purchasable instructions,a topic for support is created in the new subforum, and is linked to from MOC's presentation and last post. The catch is - it is changing human habits, so there will be a transition period where moderators will have more work to do.
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But that is just what I did.... I wonder if this is not caused by submodels?
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That's odd. Well just ask brickvault to send you the latest version. I also asked them what's up with that. Sorry for the trouble! The differences are minor, but I do not remember if they affect the parts list. It was quite some time ago. I can check this for you later.
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v9 is the most recent one. The only issue is wobbling, but I don't think there is any thing I can do without a very major redesign. Maybe if I'll tackle the T-70 this one would get an update too. All in all this was never meant to be a swooshable ship ;)
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Thanks for suggestion - and I fully agree! The thing is, I have no idea how to do it in Stud.io, which is why I eventually left it "as is". I just hoped people would realize it would be better to search for entire part. The yellow plates are not an error, they actually are one part of updates I forgot about when taking photos. Both BV and me had prototypes finished some time before we finalized instructions and this is an effect of this. Thankfully the change is minimal... Thanks for the info about the handcuffs - updating the XMLs right away! I even know how this happened - I made "my own" handcuff piece to represent the squished one, but forgot that it won't automatically export if I won't name it properly. And guess what, I did not. As for the plate with handle - yes it very slightly sticks out, but it should not be visible. Landing gear should fully retract, like this: ...and then you fold rear flag piece till it is flush with the body: Big thanks to everyone for appreciation!
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33 studs. So 26.4 centimeters. It fits VERY snugly in a standard IKEA's Billy cabinet.
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To me it is not darker. It also wasn't darker for normal Star Destroyers or other models they did, That is the magic of properly done greebling, you can add different colour shade without actually using different colour.
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It is actually super simple. Like, really, I could position it absolutely whenever I want with just adding or removing stacks of plates studs-up, that level of simple. With addition of nice pieces to cover undersides of plates - both tiles and curved slopes - we can finally get back to simple, clean studs-up build style and this shows it is definitely possible. Big thanks for noticing this, too! Okay, I understand B-Wings are thickly shielded, but I am not sure if that rendition of shielding is... accurate. Great fleet though!
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So much better now! :D