Jerac
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Everything posted by Jerac
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It is good. When the ship is complete the wings are quite heavy, and due to leverage you will find the friction to be not enough to keep up with the forces applied to the core. It should be even tighter but then pieces would be put into way too much stress; even now I have two reports of older gear pieces shattering into pieces due to the loads. With newer, softer gears this is not an issue, thankfully.
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This seems to be really nice mod. For sure it will strenghten the rear. I'd actually add another pair of hinges and perhaps think of a way to connecting bottom plating to the angled side sections somehow, but even without that it is an improvement.
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Sorry, I meant no harm! I do see now though it was kind of rude. Sorry. You have obviously added a lot of improvements. This is a great evolution of a "general design idea", particularly new panel cores with inverted 1x2 jumper plates and old technic plates look very nice, and I am quite fond of the winch elements flanking the glass canopy. Yet at the same time, the biggest major issue plaguing my design also shows here, and this and only this is what I meant. Notice how long the upper and bottom edge of the panel is. With about 30-high panel, these should be whopping 17 to 17.5 stud long! And both you and me have 8 + 6 tiles and the somewhat rounded edge of the hinge giving, say, 1 more... which leaves us with 15. Now what this does is that both our models have the panels too "streamlined", which looks cool, but ultimately is not "proper". ...and if you try to do it right, then there are issues with gaps forming near horizontal spoke... Cheers!
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HEeeHeeeHeee you copied my errors :D With this cockpit, panels should be 30studs high, 26 stud wide and top/bottom edges should be 17 studs long. I say this because right now I am trying to create a panel to these numbers and boy it doesn't want to fit into this dimensions :D Did you alter gun design or used the one with droid arms, T-pieces and so on?
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Sorry for that! This is a slight error on my side, if you do next step it will hold. What I should do would be to ask to attach pair of 1L technic connector to 2x2 side-stud plate, and then attach whole assembly to the build. There is plenty of assymetry there for structural reasons and while this 1L connectors aren't needed everywhere, it just looks stupid without them, which is why there should be one attached only from one side. I wonder if the 1x4 tile couldn't be replaced with 1x4 tile with 2 studs, but that'd I need to check.
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If you just want to build them, LDD is manageable. Those are relatively small sets and you can just move some pieces around to see the interior.
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Brilliant idea with the piece used as main computer screen! Totally did not think of it! As for other modifications, I am not sure if the dent in the bottom is an improvement, but front landing gear strut certainly is. If the dent is caused by the custom landing gear collapsing though, this damage won't be covered by warranty, as you have rightly guessed.
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Can you please take a photo of the underside in open and closed position? This 2) issue is clearly not intended and was tested, so perhaps there is something wrong with it. Let me see it and I will help you. The gearbox can be made less stiff if you replace the 1x1 technic brick in the core with a pair of 1x1 round tiles. Big thanks for appreciation, too!
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If I may suggest something, try building from outside in. The way you have it now, you will be caught by surprise by places where due to SNOT you have to have some space inside, but you have the frame there. Making the frame first forces some compromises on the external detailing due to that. So you could for example start with cockpit interior, then make outside armor and windows, and then make a frame for this region. This way, your interior won't be limited by exterior plating, and neither of these will be limited by frame.
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Much better. And you did it so cheaply...
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If I may suggest something, the single biggest issue of this set is how the engines' front edges are flush with the wing leading edges. This is totally wrong and I am not sure why did LEGO designers do that. If you manage to fix this, you will do a great step forward with this model. What you did with landing gear is good, especially the way you hid rear landing struts. Simple yet effective!
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Hello there! Finished model first. While I usually build space-themed things and this year was Star Wars and nothing else, I also love the Speed Champions theme. It is amazing how recognizable the cars are, even if the proportions are not peffect. So recently I got few more sets, inlcuding the Ferrari Garage - mostly for the beautiful 250 GTO. and the one which took my attention most was the old 312T4 Ferrari Formula 1 racing car. You see, the original car is not really too nice. It is rectangular, ill-proportioned, especially with its double decker nose and deep side skirts... it does not have to be nice. It is brutal, powerful and fast. This is what it was built for. Yet the Speed Champions rendition is cute. So I tried to fix it... and give it more proper proportions. But there was no way to fix it. Speed Champions cars are built around minifigs. They model the car around minifig shape and carry its inaccuracies to the final design. So I ditched the minifig, left only its head and a helmet. Having that done everything else was pretty much trivial. Quick look at the blueprint, basic, almost SNOT-less construction, a bit different sticker job and here it is: the remodelled 312T4. What do you think?
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I know it feels bad to get low amount of feedback. Be it positive or negative, more feedback is always better. It is hard to write something about this MOC, though. It is okay. It certainly looks like Raddus. Color blocking is a bit patchy, perhaps having all pieces in one colour would work better but it doesn't change the general outlook. The thing is, Raddus is a boring ship from a less than ideal movie, where all it did was first give some plot armor and then serve as deus ex machina. Its design itself is quite boring, too. There is a reason everybody is building Star Destroyers, mean floating triangles of imperial destruction, and not MonCals which are patchy featureless cigar-shaped ships. This design naturally follows to our MOCing medium and it shows. You also built patchy featureless cigar-shaped ship. You did this, because it is what it is supposed to be, so it is a job well done. But whatever you do it will be boring. Now, it is actually possible to make it not boring and put into some more context. Make a Finalizer star destroyer in similar scale. Show them together. Then people who have even vague knowledge about StarWars will be like "Aha! This is the bad guys ship, so the other one must be the good guys one!".
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Yup - it looks much more agressive now. I'd probably play a bit more with this dual-pronged shape to get it fully right, but treat this as a rough idea.
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Hmmm I just used the one for X-Wing - except for the axle. Just take the axle away.
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Ahhh no no no... no! :D I meant the one in the front. The one joining the prongs together. It makes it look like a bumper in a toy bumper car. It would be far more agressive when dual-pronged.
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Second iteration is much better than first one, which was too "chibi-style". Now you can do a very simple update to make it even better... Remove the 1x4 curved slope in front and replace it with a pair of cheese slopes. You will be suprised how well it looks.
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Thanks! Sorry for the helmet. I just give up. Whatever I do, it is always not enough space for the helmets. I keep adding more space, A-Wings having easily most roomy interiors of all my ships and this just is not f**king enough! Apparently I need to give up and start buying sets, eh, to know the new parts better, especially on minifigs, which simply never bothered me. As for screwdrivers, do you got instructions with arrows pointing them out? If not, ask BrickVault to send you an update. I marked where they should go. It is hard to describe with words but I will try anyway... so you have these side sections with missile launchers, right? When you attach them, they wobble a bit left to right. The screwdrivers go vertically to the little space which is in their rearmost part, to secure the sections in place. These screwdrivers are not attached "in system", they just slide in and that's that. Clips issue: Those are missile bays btw ^^ The clips shoud be black. But then whey they are black, they are visible from the bottom and form an ugly stripe, which is why I made them grey. This way they flush on the bottom and are not that ugly in the missile bays. In my photo model they are yellow just because the ship has few splashes of yellow already, and it just looks right. I still believe yellow looks best, but most accurate is LBG.
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First Order Special Forces Tie Fighter (SEC - Jerac)
Jerac replied to Rubblemaker's topic in LEGO Star Wars
I picked the grey cockpit piece because this is what should be used according to the movie: It is the interior which glows red, which makes the canopy look like it was trans red - while it is not. -
First Order Special Forces Tie Fighter (SEC - Jerac)
Jerac replied to Rubblemaker's topic in LEGO Star Wars
You know what annoys me the most? This one I did not see with my own eyes. It was entirely digitally-built and then finished on-site at BrickVault... vault I guess. I guess I need to finally order pieces for this to have one for myself. -
Now when I think of it, the reason Vader would want such a hangar is that simply no other ship will fit through that opening, so he will never have to worry about his parking space being occupied by some idiot. On the other hand, upgrading to, say, a TIE Defender would be problematic... ;d
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Yeah it is far better now, actually it is "just right". I'd maybe try cheese slopes on the tops of 1x3 slopes but that is entirely personal taste. Good job on this!
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I commented the hangar before, so I'll just drop here too that I still like it and I still believe red beats yellow. But what has eluded me before is taht black 2x4 tile on top of the T/A - very clever thing to do! I'll try to incorporate it in incoming basic TIEs update, thanks for the idea!
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Yeah you need to find something pointy for the tip, but also flat. I'd try to continue the wedge pattern you have - also replace 3x6 with pair of 2x3 to save yourself 3 studs - and add that pointy piece, whatever would it be, in front. Maybe a road sign? Altough it is too wide... on the other hand not much wider than pair of slopes you use already. Or you can try to do sth like in this one: in this one it flushes just right.
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I am not sure what to think. Overall it is pretty good but for me the final result is somewhat broken by the nose which just doesn't fit: Here it is most visible. At the very least the nose should be moved one if not two plates lower, but personally I'd try to do someting completely else. Right now, it is higher, flatter, smoother and does not match the edge of the angled section.