Jerac

3 years of feedback gathered from people helped A LOT ^^

Driving that ring would be annoying though ;d

Looks phenomenal. Way way better than on the starry background. Even though it rendered weirdly with that black strip :D Do the turbolaser rings rotate?

You can try removing the tile from the seat (and the droid hand piece underneath), this gives you a bit more space. Less cushioning but the girl is strong, she'll survive it :D

That connection point is 8 stud diameter. I can definitely make it strong enough to be used as a table :D

I like the design a lot... as much as I can see it. Could I ask please for a photo/render on a clear featureless background?

Nah I have no problem with constructive criticism. Sometimes it is right, sometimes less so, nothing wrong with that! And it is not really perfect, I just had no idea how to solve some things... You can for example try to move wings one plate back. This is a very extensive rework and there were some structural issues I couldn't resolve, but maybe it could work for you. Think of it this way: Can the core (the 4x4x4 cube in the middle) be moved one plate forward in relation to the scissor wing system? If yes, then the wings along with engines will automatically be moved backwards one plate.

I absolutely won't be angry :) Just be careful because it is super easy to forget something when doing measurements comparision and this will blow everything up. For example, you took a random schematic you found in 30 secs of googling. How do you know it is screen accurate? It doesn't seem to match the trench run scene either. Especially bottom nose angle is super weird, and the cargo hatch is way, way way too steep. Curvature of the nose is also weird. SW ship schematics coming from the official cross sections book are hideously wrong. About the worst source you can get. Another issue is that you are comparing an orthographic image with a perspective image. For example, you matched length of the model by matching from tip of the nose to end of the engine close to the camera. But let's pick the other engine, because why not: ...and everything changes. It is still wrong though ;) Perspective is SUPER HARD to work with. You can basically only compare stuff which is on the same plane. So for this comparision to make sense, you should match from tip of the fuselage to the rear of the fuselage, and ignore engines as they are not on the same plane. Because they are closer to the camera, they appear bigger and longer. I marked correct lines with pink. As you can see, it is much more closer to my model and also about the same as on the frame from the movie. ...and also full of half a plate offsets which are a bane of each model designer, eh.

I bet green is going to be awesome! This is a simple hue adjustment in photoshop but just look at it:

This is intended, the studs of 1x3 jumper are there to ensure the gap has constant depth, and it won't be noticeable in the final build because it will be obscured by structure to the side of the engine.

Minifig proportions are such a total mess that scaling to height or width only makes no sense. For a human, head is about 1/8 of total height, for a minifig it is 1/5. Which means if you take average 180cm tall male and convert it to minifig terms you get... 112cm. I generally assume minifigs are really obese and also really short. So about 1.6m tall and obese...

TBH as long as it doesn't fall too easily and detaching the stand doesn't rip something off from the model, I wouldn't worry much about connecting to the internal frame. I mean, I so far got no complaints about that in any of my models, and they always clip on just 2-4 studs somewhere in the bottom.

It looks good and consistent, and I like double-sided solar panels. The biggest issue with the 3d model is that you cannot verify its durability (Altough you can predict some weak spots). From what I see in the instructions I can tell that it will probably be a sturdy build, the core seems very solid and well thought, and the only dubious part is whether halves of the panels are going to stay together, especially front tips of them. Center of mass may be too far to the front for the ship to stay level without a stand, so I recommend making one too.

Yeah this is the problem with the A-wing. Your one is about the right size... and uses smallest cockpit piece available, which is way too big. I've seen one made with Technic Ducati motorbike windshield piece instead and it was a bit more proportional, but I am sure it is far more difficult to incorporate. All in all, it has a Chibi feel to it but in a good way!

Looking good! So this is essentially t70 base color scheme applied to t65?

Nose is a tad droopy? Perhaps it can be lifted up? :D This is a very nice livery and the ship shouldn't be unhappy and sad because of it!

A standard solution so such slight angled gaps is using 1x4 and 1x2 panel pieces. You know, those of size of standard 1x4 and 1x2 bricks. You put them sideways so the narrow part covers the gap and that's essentially it.

Like this! Good job! That is not a super easy question to answer to be honest, as I look at general parts availability instead of what is currently produced. There should be no rare parts except for 12 tooth bevel gears, but those can be replaced with tan which are super cheap, or older 12-tooth pieces. Or even fully ignored. Aside from this I removed the old adventurers' wheels, an odd 1x1 round plate with towball and few other pieces which were problematic, so it should be far better.

Looking good! I wonder if it wouldn't be possible to use 2x3 wedge plates so there would be few less studs?

Please share it once you have it done, I am quite curious how will it look!

I don't remember to be honest, but most likely this is a situation where based on the measurements it should be something like 3.5, and in previous iteration I thought 4 was better, while in this I preffered 3. I am 99% certain it was because of the new guns which are a tad shorter than previous ones and it was them which made shorter wing edges a requirement.

Yeah their selling platform has some issues which the BV team tries to fix, but there is only so much they can do. If it refuses to work just ask them for help.

Studio is I think the best solution to make instructions now, even though it has its quirks. Most notably, it uses bricklink part library, which means you don't have to worry if parts' IDs match. Performance is an issue in larger models and there are some exciting bugs, but nothing major enough to stop you. Compared to ldd/mlcad/lpub stack studio is miles easier to use and while you can't do some of the fancy stuff (like custom bendable items, cables etc), everything else is better.

Come on, your rendition is different enough that even if you used my core it would still remain completely different. If I wanted it secret I wouldn't release instructions nor would I post it here on the forums ^^ y first x-wing used some ideas from other people, and this new generation uses ideas from the first one. With something built so often in the same scale, we're all bound to reuse someone else's ideas. So I say please release your own instructions, paid or not, but do so!

Oooooooooops I am sorry for hijacking the thread name :D Fixing it now! The tile on the side of the nose is a sticker, sorry. A true tile would be far too thick; x-wing's nose is really slim there... I figured out a tiny cheat would be better than that. After all real things get painted, lego uses stickers so why couldn't I use one too? Thanks for appreciation!