Anio
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We know for quite a long time that Sheldon Cooper is fan of Lego. Now we know that he is member of EB. haha haha. -
It is from Episode II.
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I already made quite a lot UCS models from PT. And I have another one on the way.
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The build is modular. So you can take modules appart and move them easily. Otherwise, one hand on the tail, one hand under the ship, and you carry the model like it were a big machine gun. That's how I do.
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There are 2 main reasons : A) The color tells what the parts does/is. A few examples : tan pins = friction less : blue pins = friction : light bluish grey axle = odd length : black axle = even length : With an exception : 2L red axle , so as not to do mistake with regular friction pin (which is not blue because it would be too visible, and could lead to mistakes with ) Red gear: sliding / clutch : Tan gear : bevel thin With an exception : 20 tooth gear which is tan when used in a mechanism and black when used as a knob. etc. B) The color is used to catch the eye. A point of reference on the model. "There is something important in there", if you will. Red for gearboxes, as it is the heart of a model, for example. (which works with clutch gears, which are red too ;) ) Yellow pistons. Or orange parts on PF elements. One thing I have no explanation though is the color change in the driving ring. The old one was red (which makes sens with changeover catch), and the new one is dark bluish gray. Maybe red was too visible with the new design (the part is bigger). Or maybe designers tought that red changeover catch and clutch gears were enough to catch the eye.
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Yes. And you can also control the movement more precisely.
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I think the arm is good as it is. Sure you can modify the arm so that it opens farther and so it is straight. But : - it will not change the range of the arm (5 mm maybe...) - and on the contrary, it will probably prevent you from reaching the front of the bucket.
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Very true. For example, the 8455 with 7 pneumatic switches is much easier to control than 42043.
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We are on the same boat. :p I consider the building experience as important as the model itself. If a technique is weak, I always look for a build that is strong enough to make the final model stable. So far, I never got stuck by such a building standard. Moreover, sometimes it forces me to find new ways / approaches to build the model, and that is very interesting.
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Thank you for your very kind words.
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Thank you guys. ;) I tried trans-green : Which one do you prefer / think is the most appropriate ?
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I am not sure this example is very relevant. If they made only very hard video games, there would be only hard core gamer. Today, in most video games you can chose the level of difficulty. Something like : very easy, easy, normal, hard, very hard, extrem. Moreover, I sincerely doubt that the goal of a Lego set it too have something difficult so that a kid needs 2 weeks before being able to use it properly... I played quite a lot with 42043, and I can not imagine a 12 yo kid controlling it correctly... I challenge any adult to do the following sequence with no mistake (you have to know the function of each lever, and know in what direction to push the interruptor for each (!) function) and no hesitation (too easy if you think 20 seconds between each moves). I consider this sequence to be something normal and realistic to use correctly the features of the set : - outtriggers out horizontaly then vertically - rise the arm and take it out of the bucket - rotate the crane on one side - open the claw - lower the arm slowly, with the 2 big cylinders - extend the arm with telescopic function - close the claw and take some materials (sand, anything) - raise the arm slowly - rotate the crane to have the claw above the bucket - lower the arm and retract the telescopic section - open the claw, drop slowly what you picked up before - close the claw, raise the arm, and rotate the crane on the side you want - rise the bucket - do not forget to open it at the back - lower the bucket - close the back - fold the crane in the bucket (rotate it abowe the bucket, then lower it carefully) - outtriggers up, then in. - finally, interruptor off. Kill me now...
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I completed my review of 42043. Here is the conclusion I drew : I you have the courage to read more in French : http://www.techlug.f...us-kossman-2015 As always, the last part of "Functionnalités/Functions" is the most interesting, I think. The review with the translator : http://translate.goo...us-kossman-2015 It may however be hard to understand sometimes. Ask me if you are really lost with some of the translations... ;)
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Here is one of the pic of my review, but not sure if it is exactly what you want :
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#sorryformybadenglish on You do not necessarily need a cam that move the switch lever in 1 way only. You can have the gears that work in the same direction no matter how you engage a gearbox lever, and then the reverse is made with the PF switch (which would be the opposite of 42042 where the reverse is made with gears : if you look closely, you can see that there is 1 additionnal gear (tan 20t) on one side so that the functions work in the opposite direction). It could make things easier, but I can see 2 limits in connecting the changeover catch axles to 1 PF switch. a) technically, it would mean that you can activate all motorized functions at once. If you engage all functions, the model will not work (even an XL would be too weak), and worse, you might damage some parts. On 42042 we have 2 boxes precisely to prevent the user from engaging more than 2 functions at once. b) if the PF switch is connected to the changeover catch axleS, then you can not engage functions in opposite direction. In other words, the model would be reliable and safe with 1 switch per gearbox. It is kind of an expensive setup, isn't it ? (it would still not be safe as the user would still be able to activate all the functions at the same time) #sorryformybadenglish off
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The second axle doesn't need 1L round pin connector. It does steer less than the first axle, so never hits the black parts. If you look carefully, you will see that the gap between the 2 attached with frictionless pins is slightly longer than 2L. In other words, it is not in the systems, and so rubber parts are necessary to go out of the system.
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The thing is that if you want to take material correctly, it is necessary to have a vertical pressure, in order to be able to "dig" the ground (sand, for example). Excavator FSB002 had some holes not connected. Visually, it does work ok. But technically, the excavator can not dig. It would make things a bit easier, but it is far from being the main problem on the set. 4 stwitches are not such a big deal. Like other model, having 2 gearboxes for 4 mechanismes (set 9396 for example), it is not so hard to control. But having 4 pneumatic switch + 4 mechanismes+ remember in what direction you have to activate each of them to have the movement you want... It is just too difficult... Not to mention that many moves are incompatible. For example, if the bucket is on the way when you rotate the crane, you just ruin everything. Or if you retract the 2nd big cylinder, the weight will do less pressure on the first cylinder (main articulation), and the arm will go up. In other words, functions are not as independant as they seems to be... That is what I thought too. But in fact, 1 compressor is enough. Believe me, with all the controls, there are enough things you have to think to... More pressure would make things even faster, and so even more difficult. The rotation of the crane for example is very very fast, and it is almost impossible to control. Slow pneumatic moves are almost a relief, IMO...
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Hello, Here is my video of 42043 (review coming next week end) : I tried many, many many times to do a long sequence, but sooner or later, a mistake always occured. Always. It is just impossible to make a perfect video demonstration with zero mistakes in the controls (2 levers for 4 mechanisms + battery box switch to select the direction of the rotation + 4 pneumatic switchs) and to have nice movements on the crane. So, I did my best to present the functions decently, at least.
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Nope. Too thick. It wouldn't work, both visually and technically speaking.
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I can't. I need the (dark bluish gray) bracket to hold the engines together. I will try to buy some trans-green bricks to see how it looks...
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Here are the advices I could give : 1) Build official sets, and analyse them. Often, a complexe situation is solved in a very simple way. 2) Use real bricks (no 3D software) first, to feel the bricks, to understand how they react. What is possible, what is not possible, the limits, the stability of the build, etc. 3) Do not pay too much attention with pure technique at the beginning. Learning techniques for the sake of learning techniques is not necessary. Building techniques will come naturally with practice. On the contrary, something very useful is to know the existing parts : brackets, Technic connectors, hinges, clips, etc. LDD is convenient for that as parts are sorted, so it is easy to have a good overview. 4) Start with something simple. 5) Read 4) again.
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Thanks. :) I can not remove the studs from the plate 4x8. That would make a very empty surface in the middle of the wings plates. I didn't want that surface to be only covered with studs as well. That is why I added one 2x2 tile and a couple of 1x2 grille. It does not represent anything that can be observed on the real ship, but I think it is welcome as it adds some textures. I also think it is important to have a tiled surface when there is a 1 plate thick step. It make things smoother (no "step effect"), which is something very important on the nose. The nose if the first thing we see, and it gives the flow towards the back. So it is important to have it right. All in all, I can do something like that : I think it does look good. :) Do you prefer this solution ? Well, not that wrong, actually. The glow appears to be light green. So light, that it almost tends to be white in some very small areas. What choice do I have then ? => http://www.bricklink...Item.asp?P=3005 Trans-green, or Trans-light blue. Trans-green appears to be quite dark. It is even darker when surrounded of dark gray parts. So I chose Trans-light blue. It is certainely not ideal but it does look more glowing, and that is also an important thing to consider. edit : I also added some grilles on the underside of the nose, so as to reproduce the hatches of the landing gear. EDIT : I tried trans-neon green (parts from my 10143 :p ). It appears to be way too yellow ; visually, it doesn't work...
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That's exactly what happened to me. haha I didn't have much interest in the ship, but designing it was a lot of fun. And I am happy with the result. :)
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[REVIEW] 2H 2015 Video Reviews
Anio replied to Jim's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hope you are right. I do, really. Cause with 1 switch (battery box), 2 levers (gearboxes), and 4 pneumatic switchs, moreover located everywhere on the truck, I dread the controls not to be very convenient...