Anio

Nope.

Thank you everyone. :) One thing left to do on a UCS model (an update ; I will post it next month I guess), and I am done for 2015. Normally.

Some people pointed out that the dark blue inverted slopes are hard to get. Note that this part appears in a very recent model : Elve ship 41073. So you can probably order it through Lego customer service for little money.

Thanks. Your posts here, and I remember your messages on FBTB as well (on a very old thread). It seems that the Sith Infiltrator is a ship you really like. :)

Hello, Thank you for your messages. It is cool you like the model and its presentation. In fact, they are totally different. The big wheels is the only thing they have in common. And even the wheels are not attached the same way. There are Technic gears on 4481. But in a UCS approach, I was compelled to use studful elements. Ok there is the 1L DBG ring which is studless, but the key is the plate 2x2 with pin, and, to some extent, the hinge top. Building a functional model out of studful element was the most interesting part of the design process. Something that seems simple in a complex situation. This is the simplexity. The chassis is a good example of simplexity. It is strong, with odd angles, and it was not so easy to find how to build it. Yet, if you look closely, you will see that the way it is built is not that complicated. The instructions will have everything you need. But you will have to be patient before it is available. ;) I gather all the technical datas I need on Star Wars websites, I take a pic of the final model, and then it is a Photoshop work. :) PT ships and vehicules are higly underrated IMO. :) There is a lot of interesting stuff in PT. I can't say it is as strong as 4481. 4481 is made out of Technic, there is not a chance that I can design a model that is as strong as this set. Nevertheless, the final model is very satisfying regarding its solidity.

EDIT Professional instruction now available for sale : You can email me at setechnic@gmail.com /EDIT Hello, Let me introduce a MOC I designed 2 months ago : a UCS Hailfire Droid. UCS Hailfire Droid by Anio, sur Flickr UCS Hailfire Droid by Anio, sur Flickr The model is made out of about 1,070 Lego parts. The big rings can rotate so that the vehicle can drive. The model has a lot of details : - missiles on the top - the red eye and the mandible - rotating cannon below - fake cylinders on the "arms" - some details in textures : small greeebles, tiles/studs, small dark brown areas - the blade suspensions, with flexs and road signs (!) - the details of the motors, reproduced with SW printed dishes. The building process started with the rings that had to fit with Lego bricks. And having the rings stuck was not an option. The rings had to be able to rotate, otherwise, I would just have canceled the project. :o I end up with this solution : The plates 2x2 with pin have a 1L liftarm (small DBG ring) that goes into the wheel and support it. There are 4 of these per wheel. Those parts are frictionless, so the x784 big rings rotate correctly. That was to support the rings. And to guide them even better, there are hinge tops (black) on the sides of the structure. Those parts make slightly less than an half plate thick, so it enables me to slightly reduce the width of the hole, and so to guide the rings correctly, still without friction. It was quite a challenge to design it, but I am glad it works. The setup is reliable and has very little friction. It tends to slip on a very slick surface of course, but works really good on anything else (wood, textile, paper, anything). If you are familiar with Technic sets, the build has much less friction than a Technic model with big tracks (42028, 42038 for example). The chassis is also interesting. With few studless and studful bricks, I got something very strong. The tile 2x2 with pins (dark bluish gray) locks the build. There is also some SNOT more or less everywhere. Technic parts to attach the missiles strongly. There are also some Technic parts to link the wheels to the arms. Here are all the components. The build can be considered as modular. A few more shots to see more details : UCS Hailfire Droid by Anio, sur Flickr The proportions are accurate IMO, and the vehicle is well balanced : UCS Hailfire Droid by Anio, sur Flickr UCS Hailfire Droid by Anio, sur Flickr Here is the model in action : FlickR gallery : https://www.flickr.c...157656042536650 Brickshelf gallery : http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=557811 Mathieu will create a professional instruction for this model when the instruction for the UCS Sith Infiltrator is complete. So, stay tuned ! :) I hope you enjoy reading this presentation. And if you have any question, feel free to ask. ;) Anio

Hi guys :) Here is the video of the Sith Infiltrator : And a few pics of the build. :) As you can see, it is quite modular. Only the frame is a big part of the ship. It has a Technic structure through it. There are frictions with plate with clips. But rubber bands help to secure the build against gravity. The engines at the back : Then, attached to the model with SNOT. Of course, wings are foldable. Here are a few more shots : More details at TechLUG : http://www.techlug.f...-ST19-anio-2015 Brickshelf gallery : http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=557794 FlickR gallery : https://www.flickr.com/photos/anio-ucs/sets/72157656434356765 UCS Sticker : Building instructions coming in more or less a month. Mathieu is working on it. :) Anio

Nice model. With a lot of good ideas in it. I am still not convinced with the "bubbles" (on the sides and on the wings). But at the moment I don't have any suggestion to make it better. :/ It's been a while a want to do an UCS RAG... I should give it a try someday.

I prefer white too. By faaaaaar.

Thank you for all these explanations. :) Yes, hard to see the details with black parts. Otherwise, I think that 10129 color scheme works very well. :)

Very nice model. Your hard work paid off ! I would have made the back black, though. You may also try tile 2x4 for a more stable build.

Yep. See page 7 of the thread. => http://www.eurobrick...50#entry1597460

edit: Oops. Mod can delete pls.

Here are a few tips / guide lines : - take ideas from official sets. There are A LOT of ideas in Lego sets. Building techniques of course. But analysing how complex problems are solved in a simple way is even more interesting. - do not necessarily try to reproduce a mechanism as it works in reality, but try to adapt it to the Lego elements. - think critical. Where big parts (PF components, Technic panels) have to be located, where an hinge/articulation is necessary, etc. - structure your build. If your model turns into a mess, optimise it. Make it simple. - do not hesitate to do and redo. A trial and error process is unavoidable to achieve a good model. - use real parts rather than 3D software when you lack experience. It will enable you to "feel" the bricks, and see/learn how they react. - define your building standards, and stick to it.

Regarding regular bricks, it is ok if it is not perfect (hue slightly different, little scratch, etc). But, I am VERY picky when it come to : - sticker damaged. There are very few sets where I do not ask for a second sheet - any minor scratch on a windscreen (big trans-clear / trans-black parts) - any miss printed part I never had problems with any instruction booklets. But if it happens someday, I am pretty sure that I will ask for a new booklet at the customer service.

Have you ever seen a the brickshow video saying that a Lego set is not great ? I can sum up all their reviews in 2 lines :

They are not. They are very stiff due to parts used (new racks and big red parts). And they are really necessary as the vehicule is entirely suspended. Without them, the model is very unstable. Simplifying the model is good thing, though. Never underestimate the power of sarcasm.

Easy. Consider the elements (no slope curved, very few wedges, for example) and the palette of colors available at the time, and you will figure out why the sets were the way they were.

That's the beauty of it.

It is not an unspoken rule. It is an obvious rule. You can expect this topic to be locked too. And if you really need the reason for locking, here it is : uselessness of the thread.

Cause you create too many ?!?

No. This new windscreen is only 4L wide.

The colors of the X-Wing.... :-S That's frightening. At least there is a new and accurate windscreen. The new MF looks very good. A bit more detailed than the previous one. And maybe a little bit more flat, which would be a good thing as well. :)

I am glad you like the model. :) We will try to release the instruction in the end of the year.

"What that sarcasm ?"