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Seasider

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Seasider

  1. @Jim any hints as to when we'll hear more about this 2nd Anniversary surprise you've briefly mentioned? i wasn't planning on buying any of the sets this year based on what's been shown so far
  2. Just seen the video ... I do this as part of my job :) I couldn't find if they'd scaled the speed ? Great little video though
  3. Great model, reminds me a bit of a Pilatus PC-9.
  4. As promised an update ... I think I'm doing pretty well on my tasks. I've added a Diff, which required all the gearbox related gears to move forward by 1 stud. I've redesigned the seats, made them symmetrical and moved them in by 1 stud. I've started to do a recolour on the model, some of which is limited by my current part collection (a bricklink order is planned). Still to do ... Fully mount the gearbox as its floating at the moment, but I think I know how I'm going to do this. Make a new dash and select a steering wheel ... still not sure what wheel though Most probably raise up the grey curved panels to match the new dash. finish off the colouring. More updates to follow ...
  5. Congrats to the winners, another great competition Jim/Milan. Time to rip my model apart this afternoon.
  6. is there any more information around the R3-M2, is it going to be a new range ? and if so a range of what ? droids ? characters from certain films ?
  7. Hi Andy, I've been working on the rear of the chassis. I have a diff in and I've reworked the rear suspension because of the Square Frame i've used to house the Diff. The problem I'm trying to solve at the moment is the gearbox where I need to take into account the gear selector axle sliding significantly rearwards but also I've run into the unplanned problem that with the gearstick in the rearmost position one of the original gears now connects to the gear I've added to drive the diff. This will be easy(ish) to solve as it means shifting all the old gears (gear shifter, ones in the bottom of the chassis and the one on the front of the engine under the fan) all forward by 1 stud. I was away over the weekend as it was Bank Holiday here, but I plan to do a little bit (the odd hour) either tonight, tomorrow and perhaps a bit Friday afternoon/Saturday morning. This should get me to a stage where the rear diff all works properly and I'll most probably have moved the seats 1 stud inboard as I'm tackling more than 1 job at once as a lot of them overlap. So I'll try and post an update photo at the very latest this Sunday night (UK time)
  8. Great little model is blue the only colour we can make this in ?
  9. Yes the wheel needs to be angled down but also brought rearwards in car. I was thinking of 2741 but I'm not sure how many studs this is, i think it'll be a trial and error as there aren't many wheel options and i want it to have a round wheel and not a yoke PS i know a "little" about car design :)
  10. Andy ... started work on my MODs ... here's my thread
  11. Time for an update from me, so if you've seen Andy D's thread you'll have seen my comments. Since the instructions came out I looked over my model and was surprised at how well I'd done. But I had somehow missed a cranked black liftarm (which was why i was having issues with the "dash") and I hadn't considered Lego having "floating" parts (the back of the gearbox). So continuing on from Andy D's and my original thread above here I finally go ... Firstly this is the parts list (now corrected) ... ... and it should look something like this (notice some colour swaps as I don't have all the parts in the right colour) ... ... or this ! It's actually quite a small parts list ... ... and you'll end up with this ... ... so now to the MODs. This is the list of what I plan to do (well at the moment plan to do!): 1. Bigger wheels - I've currently swapped the originals out for some 43.2x18 wheels (4496707) and tyres from the 8285 Tow Truck. I think they look more in proportion and have a good wheel to tyre ratio. It does mean I'll need to MOD the front bumper as this now fouls the steering. 2. Add a Differential - one thing the model is defintely missing due to is "borrowed" parts list 3. Narrow Gearbox / Move Seats inboard - I don't like how far out the seats are, they don't line up with the steering wheel (out by 1 stud), the gearbox/tunnel just looks too wide and the seats just seam too far outboard/spaced apart in the original model 4. Update Seats - I'd like to get some recline function in like the original Chassis model this is a homage to 5. Steering Wheel - a bigger wheel, any suggestions ? and also repositioned as I think it's too raked at the moment 6. Colour update - you'll see I've been working on this already (but short of some bits in various colours). Current plan is Light Grey Chassis (due to the Open Square frames only being in this colour), Red seats, Black floors under the seats, Blue Gerabox/Tunnel, Light Grey Engine, Black Dash and Blue/Light Grey front Bumper 7. Remove the Asymmetry - there are a few non-symmetrical areas due to the original parts list, passenger seat and the front of the gearbox to name the 2 i can think of. 8. Tidy and "poor" connections - some connections are left floating or just a bit odd, again I think this is down to the original parts availability. anyone know why there is a random 2 x 4 L Liftarm on the bottom of the Chassis near the front of the gearbox ? I can't work out its purpose. But I don't want my final model to look too different to the original (may be difficult!) So to start with I built a SECOND (!) Chassis ... ... mainly so I still have the original to compare back to ... you can see I've been working on the colour scheme ... ... looks a bit more purposeful here ... ... time to work on the Differential ... ... it disconnects reasonably easily. Stay tuned for more updates !
  12. Just to put my "two penneth" in I think the last few pages of this thread if anyone has read it isn't good news for this competition. We shouldn't be discussing the votes so far and I don't like the idea that someone has generated a score card, that people may use should they wish, which gives categories to rate against. On top of that there have then been discussions over the "Power" of various robots ... What about if you don't have a buggy motor but still wanted a spinner ? I won't go into details of how i voted so I don't influence people Sorry I'll end my rant now
  13. Well I have a reasonable technic collection so I've used that to build my set so far. The plan is to mod it which I'm still working out what to do, details to come next week. once I have a fully modded Chassis I'll then just bricklink the bits I need. so far I haven't bought any technic sets this year! as to working out which part is from which set I can add that to my excel sheet if that would help, but itll take time as I've a busy week ahead at work and that's where my excel sheet is
  14. Just double checked bricks vs my excel list (I'm an OCD engineer). 3 mistakes 4142822 1x3 Liftarm Black should be 8 off 4211651 1x5 Liftarm LBG should be 9 off 4239601 1/2 Bush Yellow should be 9 off
  15. Hi andy, no the chassis is is is my attempt to build it from the known parts from the 3 sets and the photos and video from the toy fair earlier this year. Last night I tore the model apart and went through the instructions step by step placing the parts in a tub. Turns out I'd somehow missed a black bent liftarm from my original model which didn't help! But it was good to see I'd got lots of areas right or very close. I'll then check the tub contents against the list. The parts collection is actually very small, apart from the wheels they all fit in a small tub. I plan to build it this afternoon and then start modding, most probably back in my original thread on here. I will take photos as I go along and then most probably produce a new parts list and ldd if I can be bothered
  16. Just finished going through the instructions and unless I've made any errors I count 109 Unique Parts and 569 Pieces in total which is different to the 108/571 from the Bricklink link posted above Here's the list I came up with ... This is the corrected list !
  17. I didn't even think about if a bot was sbrick or pf. Just did my usual of voted for what I liked. Some good entries again!
  18. Some great entries from everyone. I rated based on what I thought could win a battle, what I thought was original and what I just plain liked :) 15: 10 16: 6 24: 4 23: 3 25: 2 18: 1
  19. Here's some photos ... In a couple of nights i got from my initial frame to this Then I rebulit the Chassis in Grey with improved stiffness Finished machine ... Top ? Bottom ? Removable cover for battery access Colour coded controller so you always have it the right way round ! And it fits into the 45 x 45 x 45 ... I couldnt make it any thinner than 9 studs !
  20. 12. Nibbler Cat B: PF IR Signature Move: Death by a Thousand Cuts aka chain driven spinning frames Description: 4 M Motors - 1 for each wheel and 2 for driving the weapon 2 Battery boxes 37 Studs Long x 23 Studs Wide x 9 Studs High (its quite compact) Runs either way up Colour Coded Body and Controller for ease of use WIP Topic:
  21. Looks like I'm going to be skipping this contest. chances of me completing the model before Thursday morning are slim to none ... away over easter. oh well ! Update: went on a mission last night and almost completed the Chassis last night. Just need to work out how to mount the IRs and then the lid. It'll then need a tidy as it's all a bit loose at the moment. If I can get a couple of hours tonight and tomorrow it might just be possible!
  22. I did but it also says some parts not listed. So I thought I'd create my own
  23. I'm still in the very slow process of creating a parts list from the instructions in an excel format with all the element IDs. im doing it in my lunch breaks so I'm only about a week third way through so far
  24. Raised it by a plate and it looks better, but I'd still like to find a covered hinge solution like the bonnet
  25. @BrickMonkeyMOCs it's this gap I don't like. My car doesn't have the wing or luggage rack and I wanted to put a bit more crown on the rear end rather than being totally flat. But now I'm left with a chasm above the boot hinge. I think it needs revisiting for how to hinge the boot up and try and fill this gap, must be possible just haven't got around to it.
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