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Bzroom

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by Bzroom

  1. nice, my entry idea was a truck with a camper trailer. you did a much better job on the camper than i could have done
  2. Is there anyway you can round off the front of the roof?
  3. Eraman, you could just use a spring loaded M motor for that function. Lots of wasted precision in the servo. You should theoretically be able to select 7 functions (or more?) with a servo, not just 2.
  4. Amazing. I own an r6 and a hyper motard. I wish I owned one of these models.
  5. All these advanced suspension techniques are definitely overkill for lego. EXCEPT: bumpsteer. You will notice bump steer when RC-ing around.
  6. You're right, there's quite a bit of conflicting information. It helps to really understand the forces at play and make your own decision: http://www.autocrossitalia.it/autosprinttecnica5.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads5/Anti+Dive1111185104.jpg http://www.team.net/TR8/tr8cca/wedgemath/04_anti_dive/anti_dive_html_70debd78.jpg http://motorsportrants.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/diveanti1.jpg The idea of anti-dive is to not have braking force cause suspension compression. The easiest way to do that is to ensure that your braking force (from contact patch to CG) is as close to perpendicular to the suspension as possible. You can imagine if it were parallel to the suspension, then all of the braking force would go into the suspension and there would CRAZY dive.
  7. Hi, wow that's a beast. I dont see any anti-dive though. It actually appears to have "increased-dive" geometry in the front, and no dive or jack resistance in the back. Also it looks like your steering arms are too equal length and parallel for ackerman. You also appear to have a significant bump steer. Sorry for the strong critique. I love suspension too. Fortunately your ackerman and bump will be affected by your final rack design. Those cylinder mods make me cringe :( To achieve the anti-dive in the front, you'll actually want the top wishbone tilted forward in the front (yours is tilted backward). You'll still want to retain the aft positioning (for caster), but just reverse the tilt of the top. (or bottom). You want braking force, when draw from the contact patch to the CG to have a parallel line with the wishbones for ant-dive. Your force from contact patch to CG is closer to perpendicular which will have a significant dive affect.
  8. I totally agree with Erik. There are so many new parts that would be a real shame if we couldn't use them.
  9. Man i'm gonna be terrible in this competition. I have very few studded bricks and model team style parts (chrome, windows, hinges, accessories) etc.
  10. Very cool. I like the attachable power functions!
  11. It sounds like you're trying to space optimize way too early. You wont need to get the motors in absolutely tight with the rear end. You may find that puts the motors in the way and you actually need to spread them out to make room for more crucial components. Best to keep things iterating and loosely connected until you're absolutely sure that all components have been given a home, then you can optimize.
  12. I think the mad-voter was on to something. Maybe next time, we should have everyone rate all the entries, from 1 to 10. Then, average everyone's score to determine the overall rank. This way you can capture the relative ranking of all models for all voters.
  13. I appreciate the spirit of the mega-voter!
  14. I used 2 XL motors, 2 worm gears and 24t, connected to a 2L crank. So it could only lift each side 2 studs, but it hand plenty of torque to lift more than 2kg.
  15. My girlfriend said she'd sign up and vote for me and I tried to explain how she had to be a member before the contest was announced. She didn't understand at first and then I explained that it was to prevent cheating; that you had to have some recognizable presence on the forum; that you had to at least be a "citizen" to vote. She thought that made a lot of sense. I was thinking about the voting a little bit on my drive today. With so many points to distribute, if _everyone_ thought a certain model was "medium" and gave it a couple points, but everyone had a different "favorite", then it's possible that the "medium" models, which were never ranked as spectacular, could slowly and steadily accumulate enough points to overtake a model that was regarded by some as spectacular. It seems like in that case, votes will accumulate to a popularity and not to a representation of the quality. In other words, the model with the most points may have never received more than 2 points from any one voter. I don't know which is better. I just wanted to share my observation.
  16. I'm constantly out of bricks and it always makes me think of your username.
  17. I'm sorry I asked for 20 points. :( Next time! I still need to vote. Not enough coffee to make the decision. p.s. 24hrs. Nooo i'm not worthy. Plus all my bricks are consumed. It would take 24hrs to disassemble everything. It's ZBLJ over here every day. :(
  18. Looks cool! With all that space you could fit two XL's in there easy. What about batteries and receivers? You'll notice in race car chassis that the main section of the chassis (not the roll cage) rare extends above the height of the tire. The lower and wider the better. It will often expand in width between the wheels to accommodate the passengers, fuel, transmissions. If you think of the chassis as a tube, you'll want to have the largest radius possible for a given amount of material. As the structure moves to the outside, it will produce a larger torque resistance to chassis flex and allow more room for the internal components. A smaller/denser tube will have less resistance to torque. Great books on car chassis: http://blog.autospeed.com/static/images/blog/2008/10/racing-and-sports-car-design.jpg http://www.themotorbookstore.com/howtomayocar.html?gclid=CLfA09u4-78CFQg0aQodkDsAMA Random inspiration: https://www.google.com/search?q=gt40+chassis&es_sm=93&tbm=isch
  19. Thank you. The manually operated wheels on the back manipulate the linear actuators 1 to 1, so it can be pretty tedious to do a movement routine by hand, very similar to opening the cowl on the 42000. That being said, it's really good for passing the time at work. When you're waiting for a build to finish, it's fun to pose the robot or pick something up with it _because_ it takes so long. It's like a stress reliever. Those are some clever optimizations barman. Thank you for building it and posting the pictures. I can see that you've embraced the color scheme, with those blue half pins on the LA and switching out the red bushes. The color scheme has a facet where nearly no adjacent pieces share the same color. This makes every individual piece stand out and it's really easy to see how the machine was assembled and how it works. When the colors were more uniform, it all looked like one piece, like it was made that way and bought already assembled. The "color puke," as I affectionately call it, really makes it clear that it was built from a kit. It's an honor to have someone else assemble one of my models. I'm sure this is the first time it has happened. Thank you.
  20. It's useful to me as a quick way to match up the entry Id's. I'm still going to scroll through the entry thread to make my voting decisions. The small collage is only a helpful quick reference, not meant to be used for final judging.
  21. I have updated the videos: Final assembly and operation: https://www.youtube....h?v=H6N-x8fn5VU Remote control with backpack: Good luck to all the other contestants. There are so many great entries in this competition and I had a lot of fun participating!
  22. Jim, to my understanding, we're supposed to post our votes in the voting thread. I think it is more traditional to cast votes in private, dropping a small note into a colorful box. Can we private message you our votes instead?
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