TechnicJuan

I am somewhat confused too as one picture shows the 3L universal joint with the offset gear and in another picture there is a 3L connector and the gear doesn't appear to be offset. If this is the case, why would he not have just done that in the first place?

That new 4L stop axle is in at least 20 sets right now.

It is certainly different. The designer knocked a stud or two off of the width, but they seem to have been added to the height. I am very skepticle that this could be mounted into a 1/10 scale car as the builder claims. And that offset gear makes me cringe. I have tried to build many transmissions that didn't have some sort of guide plate for the shifter and I have yet to find one that was fool proof and didn't have driving rings slipping around by being able to move when shifting from one gear to another without the original gear's driving ring not being totally unengaged. Especially those that I have tried to duplicate from other builders that used the linkage system with the single small liftarm on an axle being held into place by bushings and then sliding back and forth.

This could be simply remedied with a 3L Axle with stop/stud, Axle connector, 3L Axle with stop/stud.

Ok, I think I may see what you guys are talking about. Is it the bump in th blue pin that is in the center of the liftarm instead of the whole way through it? And this will actually deform the pin over time? I didn't realise that. I know I have seen this from Lego in the past though using pins with stops holding together a thin liftarm-a thick liftarm-a thin liftarm.

This is a far better solution than what the designers of the 8258 crane truck did. Remember how they used the friction pins with stops and just had them pushed in and they didn't actually click on anything? And then they rubbed the inner axle? You guys are talking about compression like the model is going to collapse. Doesn't that axle with stop also offer support? Not only that, but the Actuator base is flush with the liftarm. Without a doubt, this piece was made to be mounted exactly like they have it here.

The pin in the actuator base? Isn't the pin clicked onto the other side of the Gray actuator piece? I have this same set up right in front of me and the pin is clicked on the other side just fine. It doesn't look like it is sitting halfway through to me. Here is a photo where you can plainly see the pin clicked the whole way through. Or are you guys talking about something else?

I still don't understand what you guys are talking about with the Blue pin and what is so wrong with what they did.

I just tried it with some extra parts I have here and it clicks perfectly. Perhaps you could explain as I am not understanding what you mean.

What do you mean by Illegal?

I am still sitting here because I have no where to get it. Where did you purchase it at?

The designer is claiming that this transmission will fit inot 1/8 and 1/10 scale cars?

The Front reminds me somewhat of the 8048 model.

LOL, this is just slightly off topic, but studded parts are much harder to clean especially when dust collects in the holes in the studs.

Well those are the same wheels from the 8653 Enzo, 8145 599 GTB, and 8386 Ferrari F1 which all said 1/10 scale right on the box. The 8674 Ferrari F1 had the larger wheels and said 1/8 on the box. So I was just going by what TLC claimed.

Not too Bad I have a question though, how exactly can you determine if a car model is 1/9 scale? I mean the wheels are 1/10 scale, and the 8448 wheels are 1/8 scale right? I would love to see some pictures of that transmission. 6 speed with reverse?

Right from the front page of crowkiller's site "Studless building is like playing chess, you must always plan 5 moves ahead." This couldn't be more true. Studless building is without a doubt more of a challenge with the end result being that you can build models that are not only stronger, but also cut down on weight as well. Studless building also has a cleaner look. Of course these are only my opinions.

This is great for your first car. You certainly did a lot of things right. And using and sharing ideas with other builders is a good thing. That is what building is all about.

Very interesting Sariel. You are doing a 1969 Charger and I seen at crowkillers site that he is working on a 1969 Camaro Super Sport. I can't wait to see both creations.

Considering what he has done with V8, V10 , and V12 engines, I am sure he could probably make an inline engine look great as well.

It's not bad.

While that gearbox certainly is compact for having 7 gear speeds, I think that it is far too large for a 1:10 car and maybe even a 1:8 scale one. It is about 11 studs high without the shifter and at least 7 wide. It is unique though. I would also like to see that transmission in action. Why is that gear offset by a half a stud? Something about that doesn't quite look right? Or am I mistaken?

I also remember someone saying that the reason why crowk didn't include a transmission in any of these cars was because if he couldn't do it right then he didn't want to do it at all. Or something like that.

But the Actual car has a 6 speed automatic transmission with reverse. I am not doubting that you can squeeze the traditional 5 speed + R in there, but can it actually be done right with the 6 + R auto? That is what I was talking about. Most of the auto 3 speeds that I have seen were rather large, let alone a 6 speed. Also, the car that you built is more 1:8 scale. The 8448 SSS was that scale. 1:10 isn't a huge difference in size, but it is smaller. By the way, your "Wasp" car is very nice.

I am all for transmissions. But IMO it would be hard to fit a automatic 6 speed transmission into the any car that small. After all that is what most of the Lambos have in them, auto 6 speeds. Here is crow's new 1/10 scale Murcielago. Where in the heck could you fit a 6 speed automatic in this? TLC would have to go to a larger scale, which would be awesome!!!