clarkdef

Darn! I can't watch the video until I get home, explain it to me man! I bet she glides over the gravel :D

I love it, could you show the chassis on it's own, I so want to do it! Do you think this chassis would work on a large scale?

Do you work at a transistors r us warehouse? If so I need a wheel barrow full!

Try this search http://nte01.nteinc.com/nte/NTExRefSemiProd.nsf/$$Search?OpenForm if you can't find a replaement you have to spec the PCB and make an assumption...

Thanks mate, will enjoy seeing whats available.

The housing is modified I use a 2cell lipo. There is even a 3cell I can fit in there. Just point me in the right direction as to where to buy etc, I am not sure how the servo will work, the step wires might not match as might the protocols? PM me if you have any information!

I would like to fit something like you mention in the RC unit itself? Do you have any knowledge on what could be done there? But yes I am sick of fixing these rubbish units. Quite funny there is a tandem thread on this ATM

Well I am not expert on transistor testing, but yes they can be tested, but first you have to take them off the pcb, which isn't easy, just sniff it, if it's burnt out then some smell should remain. To take the transistor of the pcb a good method is coating all 3 joints with solder then melting the lot at once and having someone else pull the component off with a tool, then you need to suck up the excess solder with a syringe, also a two man job. Set to ohms lowest possible, if the transistor is burnt it should show high resistance if not low resistance.

I can't decide, I like z3s idea of custom stuff, I have thrown together a 2 unit chassis but one of the units has a wearing receiver which causes it to stutter... And my third unit is even worse.

Man I think it's beautiful! I love the way it moves, such character, the fact that you make it come a live with video editing. Well done.

I tell you I have had a lot of experience with these units, I have three currently and each has needed a repair job done on them, and Horace is most likely spot on, the wires fray and end up touching inside, these things are not build to last they are all expiring, and the transmitters and receivers are starting to wear also even without use (causes jump stutter). If it was smoking or smelling then the transistors are most likely gone, this most likely means a short internally, as normal AA's can't do it through normal operation. Hold tight I am looking at internal revamp of the things, something that would allow better more reliable operation, though finding parts that can fit has been hard... The transistors are on the smaller PCB face down, not all units use the same type, they are replacable.

Yes I will take a video, be a while but I'll get there. Not sure If I am happy with the rear end, I wish I could do live axle...

Subframe is near finished and here is the finalish result Yes!... This thing is huge, very bulky and heavy 400g.

Wow really! Invincible! I would hope the hubs could be improved either smaller or lighter or stronger, would be cool. @z3 They never have come apart in the past, but the center piece is longer now, these things seem to come apart when they can be squeezed sideways or over angled. You run over 10volts, I only run 8.4max, thats the difference.

Haha I would like to, those minifig keyrings are $20 a piece nz dollar. But stay tuned I have a cunning plan! Not a lot of friction, but wouldn't be as good as the smaller hub because more cogs and less rigid housing, you can try build one for yourself, I can take more pictures and you might find a way to make it better! those look the money, will have to look into some of those. And thanks to everyone for the nice comments!

Yes, you could gear it to drive fast, but the purpose is to plow grass and rough terrain, so the speed is reduced, but we will see, see if these extra motors have any real effect, if not I'll go back to the old build.

This is very unique, I like the crab! Seeing this makes me think that you could make technics appeal to the younger ones.

Hello everyone I would like to share my RC truck that I nick named T-revva, because it reminded me of Trevor's truck in GTA and it had a motor on the back which powered a V8 that revved quite fast! The motor was purely cosmetic. However I did base the look of this truck of a matchbox toy that happened to appeal to me. Ok so Here is the original truck in it's natural habitat. My key ring has seen better days, though who can say that their key ring has a vehicle Serious suspension for a serious truck! Specs Motors - 2x 5292 Weight - 1.5kg Ratio - 3:1 or 1:3... I forget which is which Full independent suspension - Yes Colour - Red Adjustable seats - Yes Shock absorbed bumper - Yes Revving engine - Yes Tonka tough - Yes Ok now the original truck had amazing performance, very tight turn circle, great climbing ability and speed was roughly quick walking pace, but I wanted to try and add to more 5292 motors, to see if it would further improve performance. So I start with the drive system, I want to keep RWD. The challenge with this would be getting the power channeled through an extra two 5292's, I really like the independent suspension I had been using, it's proven in the last truck so why not? I did play around with live axle and trailing arms, but could not get either to work. Two more motors destroyed the uni joints straight away, so I came with this brilliant idea below to channel the power. The last truck used the portal hub on the right, this hub as we all know has one input and one output, the portal hub on the left is the one I will be using, the difference is that it has two inputs and one output. You can see where the two uni joints will attach above. Here you can see my twin axle system come to live! The axles are attached to the fast outputs to insure that the uni joints don't have too much stress. The joints never came apart on my previous models and they got abused The truck is now wider though Thanks for reading, I will continue this WIP later.

man make a blimp! I seen a video on youtube of someone using buggy motors to work a small helicopter, well it doesn't fly more sort falls slowly, I was thinking if he added some hellium balloons it may just fly. You could have the battery follow very a wire on wheels below. I would love to see that!

Ah! Well it's a cool system and you gave me the idea that the dampers could make it work as well as act as dampers, but those small ones are just so expensive. I hear ya about Lego tyre weight being very light, I actually prefer that to grippy as it means less stress on the control arms etc. It is nice to see you have allowed for extension in the suspension for negative elevation, very nice!

Very awesome man, so the pumps communicate? I remember back to an anti dive system in a race car, where the front was somehow mechanically linked to the rear, and under heavy braking when the front dived downwards, it would pull the rear down as well, just as a anti roll does left to right this car did front to back. The reason for this setup was because of a lot of down hill braking. Anyway it looks like you came up with a similar idea, yet you have reversed it so when it dives the back raises?... Also yes the castor at the front is an awesome way to get a return to center, it's a must in my cars, because of the slack in the steering. Those tyres you have would make the return to center very good I would imagine, better than my balloon tyres, do you think this is the case? Balloon vs flat.

Very mechanically sound indeed! But in comp this thing could be a little unfair . I am actually surprised at how well it moves, I was thinking buggy motors would make for a bad crawler because of friction, but nah I was wrong. How does the radio control step acceleration feel, can you pedal this truck in low traction circumstances?

Yes I to would like to know how to connect them, and also their weight, as I would love to use bigger wheels but them power puller ones are just toooo heavy. Thanks.

Yes very true, I had a largish chassis which was fairly fast, but I had to gear it down once I added the body.

That's pretty awesome, I like the fact you decided on rwd, nice little slide I think it was doing here and there. The car also looks hella smooth over the bumps. This is the best RC Lego car I have seen so far. How will you do the body?